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  #1 (permalink)  
Old 04-27-2000, 12:19 AM
Pro Rider
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My 99 Blaster has oil leaking from something under the Oil Injector Pump Plastic Housing (black plastic case).

I removed the black plastic housing and could see the oil injector pump, but I cannot see where it is leaking since there is oil on everything.

I removed the two screws that hold the actual pump up into the bottom of the motor and pulled the pump off. This is where it began to get interesting.

I am hoping that the leak is due to a failed gasket between the pump and the engine block. Is it "OK" that I removed these two screws and pulled the pump away from the engine?

I noticed that a silver rod with threads on it is sticking out of the engine and this rod went into the Oil Injector Pump when it was attached. Can I just slide the pump back onto this after replacing the gasket, or does something have to be lined up?

Also, on the pump was a rubber boot that covered another (smaller) threaded rod that stuck up out of the top of the oil injector pump. This boot was full of oil. Should I put some hi-temp silicone on the inside of this boot when I reinstall everything? This would keep the oil from leaking out of it if the problem is here?

Did I mess up any adjustments or timing of the oil injector pump by removing it? If I did, how do I make it right? If I didn't, exactly where is the adjustment (if any) for the pump made?

Last question...Do I have to run Yamalube Injector Oil or will any Injector Oil work? I also have a Sport 400 and would like to share the Polaris Brand Premium Injector Oil between the Blaster and Sport 400 so I have one less bottle to carry around and keep track of.

I was also considering putting the same 2-stroke oil I run in my Banshee in the Blaster Oil Injector. I use Power Plus and according to the bottle, this can be used by either Pre-Mix or Oil Injectors.

I know this is alot of info, but helppppp!!!!

Thanks!

Rob R.

Phoenix, AZ and Rocky Pointe, Mexico
98 Lonestar Banshee.
98 Sport 400 for da gorgeous wife!
99 Blaster for my son.
00 Progressive 18' Enclosed Trailer for all of it!
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  #2 (permalink)  
Old 04-27-2000, 01:13 AM
Weekend Warrior
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why dont you just buy a block off kit and pre mix the same oil youy use in your banshee
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  #3 (permalink)  
Old 04-27-2000, 01:17 AM
YJW YJW is offline
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The oil pump simply turns with the engine, there is no timing to worry about so you have nothing to worry about.

"Also, on the pump was a rubber boot that covered another (smaller) threaded rod that stuck up out of the top of the oil injector pump."
You lost me on this one!

The pump output is adjust by: 1 shimming the pump stroke internally, 2 adjusting the cable freeplay.
You didn't touch ether so there should'nt have to worry about anything.
The pump MUST now be bleed! Do this by removing the small phillips screw and allowing oil to run out untill no more air is pressent.
Any time the pump is serviced it is a good idea to premix the first tank 50/1, monitor oil consumption and check the ratio by comparing oil/fuel consumption. The extra oil may foul a plug at worst. Also you may want to remove the oil line while idling, plug the carb hole, and observe oil from the line. It will be very minute at idle, any oil supply noticed would be suffecient.

Any ATV oil is ok, as long as it is good quallity. Avoid mixing brands, wait untill tank is almost empty before switching.
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Old 04-27-2000, 02:20 AM
Trailblazer
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personally I would put the block off kit in much safer then siezing an oil pump
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  #5 (permalink)  
Old 04-27-2000, 02:13 PM
Pro Rider
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Thanks for the info! It was very insighful.

There is a small, rubber boot about 1" long that covers a small threaded rod that sits on the top, right side of the pump. It appears that oil was in this boot. Should I fill it with silicone before reinstalling it so it won't leak?

Also, should I put silicone on the gasket between the pump and engine block? Could this silicone interfere with the injection?

I am not sure what you mean by bleeding the line. Do you mean to fill the oil injector bottle and let all the air out of the incoming line by waiting until nothing put fluid is coming out by gravity and then screw the pump back onto the motor?

You also mention that there is a cable adjustment. Where is that adjustment made and on what cable? The only lines I saw was the incoming injector oil line from the bottle and the outgoing line to the carbuerator. Is there a cable somewhere?

One last question. There is a small phillips headed screw on the left side of the pump that has a small reddish colored washer. What is this for?

Thanks again!
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Old 04-28-2000, 12:59 AM
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OK....I replaced everything as directed.

I did notice that the threaded rod that is normally under the black rubber boot goes up and down very slowly when the engine is running. Is this so you can see if the pump is working?

The rod cycles up and down about once per second. Is this right or should it go much faster?

When it comes to bleeding the hose via the screw, do I do this when the motor is running or when it is off? Do I just wait until the oil oozes out of this hole and then screw the screw back in?

Does the oil light on the headlight come on when the oil in the bottle is low or when the carb is not receiving any oil?

Helppppppp
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Old 04-28-2000, 12:59 AM
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Tags
adjustment, atv, blaster, bleeding, boot, carb, diagram, injection, injectors, line, located, oil, pump, routing, yamaha



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