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2006 raptor 50 carb problem

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Old 03-17-2014, 10:00 AM
gjwolf's Avatar
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Default 2006 raptor 50 carb problem

I bought a raptor 50 2006 that the guy had purchased a new carb. It dies pretty much if off choke when I bought it and I thought it was a simple adjustment.

When I started trying I felt I went backwards as I couldn't get it at all to idle off choke. I took it apart and then noticed it was completely clean inside but now gas runs out of that drain plug on the carb. The screw looks fine that normally makes it drain and I cant see from online diagrams any pics that lead me to believe an o-ring or something should be on that plug so I'm thinking the floats may not be shutting off and that is why its leaking on that am I wrong?

also anyone know how to adjust the floats ? I figured just bend it a little to make it close sooner where the seat hangs?


I don't see an air screw looks solid brass and covered haven't found much in searching any help greatly appreciated

thanks,

George
 
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Old 06-12-2014, 10:16 AM
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Default Raptor carb problems

First, you're definitely not alone when it comes to carb issues on the Raptor. Our 2006 Raptor 80 has been a real pain. After reading several different posts from this web site and others, I've learned that the carbs on the smaller Raptors for this year (like ours) are notorious for clogging. Some have tried larger main jets with positive results. However, if you've got a clog, it must be cleared. Ours would also only run with the choke on. When I disassembled it, I noticed plenty of gunk on the idle screw and air/fuel screw. And let me say that if you're going to clean it, do it right and unscrew the main jet, idle screw, air/fuel screw, etc. On our carb, I had to remove the brass plug that was factory set just in front of the air/fuel screw. You can do this by drilling the plug directly in the center with a 1/16 inch bit. Be careful not to penetrate too far, as you do not want to harm the air/fuel screw that rests slightly behind it. After drilling a small hole in the plug, take a sheet metal screw and thread it into the hole. Once the screw is secured tightly in the hole, take a pair of pliers and pull out the plug. I had to wiggle my plug a little to get it out. Now, use a small flat-blade screw driver to remove the air/fuel screw. Don't be surprised if you find plenty of gunk on the screw and in the passage--I did. Once you've soaked your carb and thoroughly cleaned in a can of carb cleaner, be careful about adjusting your air/fuel screw. It is very finicky. Thanks to a prior post, I learned that after carefully seating the screw, you should back it out no more than 1/2 to 3/4 of a turn. Once I got that right, I made my adjustment on the idle screw (after the engine was warmed up) and all is well. Next time when we put this little beast into storage, we're going to turn the fuel petcock off and let it run until it clears all of the gas out of the carb. I should have done that in the first place. Having said that, we've experienced problems with this carb even when it wasn't in storage. For instance, we'd have to keep the choke on about half-way to keep it going. Another guy who's been chasing problems with the Raptor carb said he switched his main jet from the stock 12.5 to a 17.5 and it's been running fine ever since. (Remember, this is for a 2006 Raptor 80). So, after a thorough cleaning, ours is running really well, but we'll see how it goes in the long run.

Also, let me say that you should double-check the screws on the butterfly choke plate. What really prompted me to clean our carb was after the engine had seized up. Those two, tiny factory-installed screws on the butterfly choke had not been properly seated with Loctite or similar adhesive. With only 10 hours on the ATV, both screws became dislodged from the butterfly and were inhaled into the cylinder head. The ATV was out of warranty, so we were out of luck there. Others have experienced this, too. I had to replace the piston and valves (I had a local dealership install the valves). Thankfully, the cylinder head (including the valve seats) was still in good shape. But a word to the wise--take a little Loctite and apply it to those tiny screws so that you don't end up with a huge headache! I've ridden Yamahas since the 70s and have never experienced that problem until now.
 
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