Ok first what I have done...installed 147.5 main jet, stock pilot, drilled bigger hole in slide (like it says to do with dynojet kits)..cleaned carb thoroughly..needle clip is in second groove...now I know my solenoid is going bad, because sometimes I have to arc it to get it to start with start button..but when I do get it started, it idles fine..when I get on the throttle, whether in neutral or in gear, it's like it's missing..I can't explain the sound it makes very well..but it acts like a rev limiter or something..like it isn't getting power..sometimes I can kick it in gear and pull out and it acts fine for a minute or two, then it starts cutting out/in, out/in, so much that I can't even pull out from dead stop from lack of power...I may take a video this evening so you all can see/hear exactly what I'm talking about..I have read the parking brake can cause some problems (I flipped the bike and messed my PB assembly up, but it ran fine until I messed with the carb..i just changed the oil and found metal pieces, which I was told was my clutches..can anyone point me in the right direction..when I get home this evening I will make a video to help you guys with a possible diagnoses..sorry for the long post but I wanted to include all info I could think of

 

oh...searched and found a couple of threads concerning the parking brake causing these symptons...so do disconnect, I just unplug the one cable from the white connector and pull the other one apart, apply dielectric grease and then tape them off or something like that???

 

I went out yesterday evening, traced one of the parking brake cables to a white connector...unplugged it and took her for a spin...I believe that was my problem..I came home and taped it off..my other problem of a sporadic no start with push button turns out to be a bad solenoid

 

update..so now i can't jump the starter from the relay..i can't pull start it..no push button start obviously. I charged battery..cleaned terminals..nothing..no clicks from relay...then i bypassed my kill switch by wiring the black and white wire into the red/white wire (if i remember correctly)..so after i done that, i got the little white relay beside the relay solenoid to click, and every once in awhile my solenoid would click as well..then i pulled my battery out, and for fun i pull and pull start and it started...but only once.i tried and tried but could not get it to start again...so then i read on another forum to take a jumper wire from my positive battery terminal,, to the light blue/white wire coming off he bottom of the starter solenoid, which bypasses all safeties...when i did this it finally cranked with the start button..before i was getting absolutely no spark, now i get a very weak spark if at all, but at least it is something..so while i wait for my new relay solenoid to get here (not sure if mine is even bad now)..i'm wondering what can be the problem..i'm gonna ohm the pick up coil and main coil today..but i am wondering about that little white relay beside the starter solenoid..like i said it clicks but thats it..could it be bad?? what other safeties could be bad??..i need to figure that out and why i am getting weak spark when i bypass all safeties..(plug is new, i have tried two different plugs)..any ideas?

 

Ok I went out and tested everything I could per the manual..everything seemed to meet specs..which leaves the Cdi (ouch)...but my only question is, I thought when they went out they went out completely..I did pull start it once yesterday..and I get a weak spark..so I'm not sure if it is Cdi...I may have a bad connection or ground somewhere..but the only place I see for a ground is coming off the negative battery cable to frame

 

Update..dug out the service records I got from p.o....looks like in January of 2012, the shop it was taken too, replace ignition coil, replaced stator, and "repaired wiring"..sure wish I knew which wiring they "repaired"..looks like he had an electrical problem too..he paid $800 bucks for all that and a new spark plug...ouch