Hey everyone, Thanks for looking and helping me out in any sort of way. Here's my story:

I purchased this 87 big bear 350 4x4 for $500. I thought it was a good deal - it started fair (kinda finniky) ran and operated. I knew the front wheel bearings needed to be replaced, so I started pulling the machine apart. I soon found the wiring harness was fried. So I started replacing wires.

Now this quad is not to look pretty in any sort of way. It will be used for hunting and trapping and that's it. I stripped the old headlights, and moved the battery from behind the rear Left wheel well to a box I built on the front of the machine. I intended to rerun a separate line and toggle switches for some smaller lights - so I cut out the switch and wires leading to the old switch and the headlights (and the tail lights). I also cut out the reverse relay and indicator light for the reverse. I connected the green/yellow wire to the black on the left handlebar (which was the connection for the left brake).

Anyways, I'm not going to get into deep spec on it until I have some responses.

I did move the solenoid as well to the front of the bike (but couldn't remember which line fed the two small connections..) I did mark the red and Black on the side posts.

So this is what happens:
I can turn the key and the oil temp light comes on. The neutral doesn't (however I don't have the quad in neutral and haven't tried to put it in neutral yet - is that a problem? It used to start not being in neutral). Start button has no response. Wiring to the battery runs Heavy Red to Solenoid, small red to the line on the wiring harness, Heavy Black to frame, small black to black line in wiring harness. Then Heavy black from other side of Solenoid to the Starter. one small connection from solenoid (black) goes to the black run in the wiring harness - and the other small red connection on solenoid runs to ?I think its on the red connection in wiring harness (can't quite remember, it's been a long night).

I ohm'd the on/off switch and my start/stop and run switch, all have good continuity. I've tried to hotwire from pos post to starter, with no success - just sparks, nothing turns over. I've tried to take power from positive on Solenoid and arc to small post, no success. I tested the relays, as in the clymer manual and my neutral relay has a resistance of 3 ohms...is this acceptable? I'm trying to figure it out without buying parts that aren't necessary.

Any advice?

....boy I hope this makes sense....

 

I had a 1988 350 4x4 Big Bear, it had no battery installed whats so ever and a bad solenoid. Since I did not want to put money into it and it started in one or two pulls at most even in the winter I just lived with it and rode it for 3 years.

It was one beat up looking ATV (see my Pics) but it,s sure was reliable, I sold it to a freind 5 years ago and its still going strong.

I know the post is no help but, how well does your pull start work?

 

I pulled my recoil off and just like the rest of the quad, full of rust. I will clean it up and get it back on - never thought of just trying to pull start. I do need a new spring for the dog (or at least what I call a dog). The coil spring itself is strong. I'll give a shot.
Any other ideas to get the power operating again? Do I have to ground out those neutral and reverse switches or do sensors have anything to do with getting it to kick in?

 

I had no working dash lights, I cant remember if it had to be in neutral to start but I don't think so. It did need to have the foot brake pushed down to go into reverse.

I guess I had no neutral light since the ATV had no battery.

 

Thanks for the info.

For some reason I don't think the connections on Battery to Solenoid to Starter are right...

What's the best way to test a solenoid?

 

I just did a major troubleshoot and from what I can tell - I'm guessing it's the CDI unit.

IS there anyone on this forum who would happen to have a 87-88 Big Bear 350 or moto-4 (as I read on one site, but wouldn't guaratee it - but it's in the same clymer manual) - that would loan their CDI to test. From what I read, there's no other way to tell if it's the CDI or not.

Brand new, $500 bucks. EEEEK. That's what I paid for the sucker.


PLEASE HELP.

 

I did another troubleshoot this morning on all the wiring. I was finding my neutral relay to be constantly open -the circuit would never close. (Which is better than not opening).

I direct wired the sensor wire to the frame and now she turns over. the neutral light never turns off....but that's the least of my worries. At least its turning over!

Thanks for everyone's input.

If you have any concerns why I should NOT have that wire direct to the frame instead of through the relay and sensor...PLEASE LET ME KNOW.

If the concern is you won't know what gear you're in when starting or it may move when you think it's in neutral - not a worry to me. It's a rig for trapping/hunting... that's just fine with this cat.