Well the honeymoon was short lived. Runs nice when I can get it to start.
Only 90 lbs compression again. Squirted a little oil in the plug hole and presto 177 lbs compression. So I pulled it down again.

The good new is I now know the trans and rear end are fine.
I also looked up the change shaft, $20 new and a new shift pedal $10 new. Boats.net - New and Used Boats for Sale, Outboard Boat Motors, and Discount Outboard Boat Parts (guys on ebay are asking more then double for used parts) So I pulled the RH cover off ad took the clutch pack out (looked good) to remove the change shaft. Now the shift pedal will be fixed right.
I took the cylinder to the local machine shop, thinking it needs a over bore.

The cylinder has a couple areas that are rusted from water getting into the cylinder and laying on top of the piston at different heights. It must have got into the air cleaner and ran down hill right into the engine. If you have a Moto 4 80 make sure the seals are good around the cover below the head light.
At any rate once I got it running the rusted area wore away quickly and the compession dropped. It ran real nice for about a hour, but kept getting harder to start.
The machine shop measured it up and said its only about .001 oversized in the rusted area. So they going to try and hone it out and put a new std bore piston and rings back in.
If the hone does not clean it up we will bore it .020

Putting it back together should be straight forward except for the 12 ***** inside the clutch pack.
Does one use a heavy grease to hold these in place until the clutch is assembled?
It sucked to hear them falling out of place when I pulled the clutch plates out.

Kids are pretty enthused and had fun playing with it, too bad they had soccer and we had to put it away. Maybe if we had rode it more it would have wore itself in that extra thousandth of a inch and sealed back up.

 

Ya that happened to me to a wile ago. So now i just keep it wide open all the time now so it dont happin. Sorry to here and i hsve no clue on the clutch *****.

 

The manual shows putting the motor on its side, it took me a min but then the light came on, its not a car, I can put the bike on its side, then the ***** will stay in place.

Machinist miked the cylinder and its rust about .001" in 2 spots but has almost no wear.
Its allowed .004" wear over std befor a rebore is needed. He figures we can hone the rust areas out and still be in spec.
I ordered a new piston, rings, wrist pin, circlips, shifter change shaft, shift pedal, gaskets and seals, and a few minor parts I needed. $153 and $17 freight from Dirt Cheap Yamaha, Honda, & Polaris OEM Parts & Accessories – Cycle Parts Warehouse
New rear tires from rockymountainatv.com and a used set of 8" wheels off a YTM 200 wheeler. (ebay) I'm going to have to grind the wheel stud holes in about 1/2 a bolt stud width to get them to fit, but then I'll have 8" rubber on the back.
Can't wait to get her going again.

 

Well parts are in and off to see my machinist (Northern Sports Baudette, Mn) in the am.
In the mean time I picked up a badly weathered 85 model with a bent con rod.

Kid sunk it, must have had her pinned when she went down becasue the rod has almost a 90 degree bend in it. They said it was seized but rather the piston was wedged in the case. New rod and a top end job and it would run too.
However bikes plastics, seat, tires are weathered away. But I got a good band for the battery (saved $8 off my parts order) and it has a good kill/start switch (mines busted open but works) and a whole bunch of other spare parts, electrical, tranny, rear end, etc for $30
I should not have too much trouble keeping her running cheaply now

 

We got it all back togerther last nite.
Change shaft was easy and I just laid the bike on its side to put the ***** back into the clutch basket. Clutch went back together just fine.
Slid the top end back together too, after liberally oiling the new piston and rings. After about a hour of running it is still difficult to start and is low on compression. Tow it and it fires right up, no smoke, but too much blow by. so still hoping it breaks in and seals up better.
Now the bad news. While test driving it I never bothered to put the left hand side cover on over the flywheel. Just stick the shifter on and went.
Well listen up Badger owners... There is a horizontal shaft behind the flywheel that holds the shift forks. Because I left the cover off, the rod slid out the left side and I lost 2nd and 4 th gear now. So I guess I'm going to get a good look at the tranny now. Wish I would have read about that somewhere.
I ordered a flywheel puller today, I believe I have everthing else I need for tools

 

We pulled it apart today.
The 2nd/4th shift fork fell off when the pin worked its way out (just behind the flywheel on the left side) 3 gears got chewed up inside as a result. Fortunately the atv I bought for $30 had all good gears in the trans.
After a few hours of tinkering I got it all apart and then back together without a hitch. Hopefully the cylinder finished breakin in. After a couple of hours of running, sometimes it fires right off and others it has to be towed.

Wishing now the machinist had bored it .020" as these little Yamis are fussy about having good compression it seems. I could still see some of the imperfections from the rust after the first time together. But there is also marks from honing also left it the bore. Hopefully a few more hours running and all will be good.

So what ever you do don't run a Badger with the left side flywheel cover off.
Ken

 

Well just starting into the second tank of gas and she finally seated the rings. Starts instantly now. Touch the starter a boom, running. Surprising how much power and speed it has fow a little 80. I an see why Yamaha left the 4 gear out of the newer ones.
Now I just need to find one more to go with all the spare parts I have and all 3 boys will be smiling and I can cut there 50cc chinese quads loose and we can all do some real wheelin.

 

Congrats, now go have fun!!!