help with new wheels for my atv
#11
Lets see if I can answer all your ?s, Thanks for the compliment on the video too!
1= The only part from epi was the 2ndary spring. All the other parts are from UTV Inc.
2= The machined sheave is to regain top end lost from doing the shim mod and lighter rollers. Their are afew guys doing sheave machining and each one does it differently. UTV Inc., Mad Mikes clutch mods (formerly Coop45) and airdam are a few.
3= You scuff the sheave faces to allow the belt to grab better. Over time the sheaves get real shiny almost a polished like finish) and can lead to belt slip.
4=The tool for the spring removal is....A spring compressor!
5= The impact is easier to break loose and tighten the nuts. Afterwards you use your torque wrench to tighten to the specified torque as per service manual.
UTV Inc. sells all the parts as a kit on their website. (listed as rhino 450) You don't have to do everything I did since I mentioned earlier about my buddies wolvy 450 just adding a shim and changing out to regular (greased) lighter rollers. I did the utv inc. setup cause I wanted to go greaseless and I didn't want to lose any top end. With this setup I have good low end grunt, it's faster throughout the whole powerband and I increased top end a little bit. Also realize these clutch mods are for heavier or larger tires and if you just go with 25's some of it may be a little overkill. I really just wanted you to see how the clutch work is done. With a shim and lighter rollers running stock tires it will be torquey (is that a word...LOL) as hellbut may lose a few mph on the top end.
Heres a link to all things clutch related. It gives great info about anything clutch related.
Clutch Mods How They Work
1= The only part from epi was the 2ndary spring. All the other parts are from UTV Inc.
2= The machined sheave is to regain top end lost from doing the shim mod and lighter rollers. Their are afew guys doing sheave machining and each one does it differently. UTV Inc., Mad Mikes clutch mods (formerly Coop45) and airdam are a few.
3= You scuff the sheave faces to allow the belt to grab better. Over time the sheaves get real shiny almost a polished like finish) and can lead to belt slip.
4=The tool for the spring removal is....A spring compressor!
5= The impact is easier to break loose and tighten the nuts. Afterwards you use your torque wrench to tighten to the specified torque as per service manual.
UTV Inc. sells all the parts as a kit on their website. (listed as rhino 450) You don't have to do everything I did since I mentioned earlier about my buddies wolvy 450 just adding a shim and changing out to regular (greased) lighter rollers. I did the utv inc. setup cause I wanted to go greaseless and I didn't want to lose any top end. With this setup I have good low end grunt, it's faster throughout the whole powerband and I increased top end a little bit. Also realize these clutch mods are for heavier or larger tires and if you just go with 25's some of it may be a little overkill. I really just wanted you to see how the clutch work is done. With a shim and lighter rollers running stock tires it will be torquey (is that a word...LOL) as hellbut may lose a few mph on the top end.
Heres a link to all things clutch related. It gives great info about anything clutch related.
Clutch Mods How They Work
#12
#15
Depends on who you ask. The utv inc. sheave is a replacement sheave. The other 2 you take your stock sheave off and ship it to them for the work to be done. I have my stock sheave and really thought about sending it out and doing a comparison but don't feel like paying for it....lol.
Airdam and Mikes powerhouse (or whatever he is calling it now) do different stages of machining. So you get different results from each stage. It can get pretty pricey for airdams stage 5 setup and then he has a 5+ stage for racing. I don't think you would need to get carried away with any of the machining, just shim to regain your low end if the wolvy loses power after the larger tires are on. After I did this work my 450 was real powerful with my 26" zillas but I have changed to larger heavier tires and now it feels like I am better then stock but not as ballsy in the low end as with the zillas on. Change 1 thing and lose somewhere else I guess.
Airdam and Mikes powerhouse (or whatever he is calling it now) do different stages of machining. So you get different results from each stage. It can get pretty pricey for airdams stage 5 setup and then he has a 5+ stage for racing. I don't think you would need to get carried away with any of the machining, just shim to regain your low end if the wolvy loses power after the larger tires are on. After I did this work my 450 was real powerful with my 26" zillas but I have changed to larger heavier tires and now it feels like I am better then stock but not as ballsy in the low end as with the zillas on. Change 1 thing and lose somewhere else I guess.
#16
hey guys i went to go buy a set of 25" gbc gators last night, but when i saw them they looked no bigger than my maxxis 23"'s so i measured them both and it turns out the gbc's are actually 23"s! and its not like they were worn, they had alot of tread and were aired up, how could they sell a 25" tire thats only 23 inches tall??? so should i look for a set of 27/28" tires to get a true 25"s?
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
badgerboy1
Trailers, Toy Haulers, Motorhomes.
5
09-26-2017 06:11 PM
ATVC Correspondent
Performance Mods and Project Quads
5
10-10-2015 10:20 AM
Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)