So long story short, I pulled the carb on my bike to clean it and had an issue with the diaphram on top of the carb. It turns out that because I used carb cleaner it expanded the diapharm and in turn would not fit back in, I then took a torch and shrunk it back to size reinstalled it and the bike started and ran fine, I then decided to remove the fuel tank to clean it out due to a lot of dirt in it. Well I put it all back together with fresh gas and fired it up. It runs and idles fine but now as soon as I give it gas it dies. I made sure the parking brake wasnt engaged so thats not it I also pulled the bowl and jets to blow a little air through them and it still runs the same.
What gives
So long story short, I pulled the carb on my bike to clean it and had an issue with the diaphram on top of the carb. It turns out that because I used carb cleaner it expanded the diapharm and in turn would not fit back in, I then took a torch and shrunk it back to size reinstalled it and the bike started and ran fine, I then decided to remove the fuel tank to clean it out due to a lot of dirt in it. Well I put it all back together with fresh gas and fired it up. It runs and idles fine but now as soon as I give it gas it dies. I made sure the parking brake wasnt engaged so thats not it I also pulled the bowl and jets to blow a little air through them and it still runs the same.
What gives
You torched the diaphragm..... Gotta get a new one. You can't do that to rubber or rubberized parts without hardening them. The one that there is now probably cracked or has a hole in it..... If something swells like that, you have already damaged it anyway.... Torching it just fiinished the job.
I know your right but at the time it seemed like a good idea, but in any case the bike ran fine, this was last week then i decided to drain the tank and now its doing this. I guess I will have to check the diaphram for holes.
Just an update, here is what Ive done, I took the carb apart again and the diaphram was in good shape still but it was very dry, i took some oil and lubed it up a bit just moisten it up, I then remembered someone talking about cutting the spring and stretching it a bit in order to gain a little performance, well let me tell you what a pain in the ass that was, so bad in fact that I had to cut the spring in half cause it was too long and no way it was going to fit, Im now going to have to get a carb kit for that spring, anyways I got the bike running now, there is a little lag in the throttle which Im sure will be noticeable once I actually ride it. I will let you guys know.
Took her for a ride today and it ran fine, big time lag and after about 15 mins it chked out and died on me, started it again and its doing the same as befor, it will idle but as soon as i giver it gas it bogs and wont rev up. So aside from the diaphram what could be the problem, it did this befor I went into the carb .
Have you check your compression and leakdown? If you have some kind of damage to the piston, rings or cylinder, it might not show up until the bike was hot and everything expanded. Also, it is not uncommon for electrical parts (ignition box, coil, etc..) to go bad when they are hot.
For sure you need to just replace the diaphragm. As already mentioned, you cannot torch any kind of rubber components and expect them to still work properly--especially in the carb/fuel system as it is so precise. I would go ahead and pull the carb off, give it another good cleaning and get a rebuild kit for it ($15-$20 usually) and also a new diaphragm. That should kick the problem.
__________________ 2000 Yamaha Warrior The Engine: .040" over Wiseco 10.25:1 piston--Port/Polish--Webcam 84grind--Titanium Valve Springs The Air: Dynatek CDI--FMF Powerbomb header--HMF Sport Exhaust--K&N Pro Design Intake Drivetrain: Barnett Clutch--Maxxis Razr2 fronts--ITP Mud Lite 22" rears--13/40 stock gearing--D.I.D. X Ring Chain The Rest: ASR +2 A-Arms, Inline Fuel Filter, Full skids, shock covers, MSR handlebars, braided stainless brake lines, black painted frame, Powermadd hand guards, DG Bumper
Yes I will get the carb kit and diaphram but in the mean time I still think that there is something else wrong. who does the leak down test work, I suppose I will need a compression tester. How to test the stator obviously with a meter but at which points to put the leads on.
You will need a leakdown tester to test leakdown. It is essentially pressurizing the cylinder to make sure that all of it's sealing components are working (piston rings, head gasket, valves). A compression test only test peak compression. Both are useful for diagnostic purposes. Your stator is probably ok if you are not discharging your battery while you ride. When was the last valve adjustment you had?
Ive only had the bike a few months and Im guessing that the prievious owner didnt do the valves either. Is this something that should really be looked at, to point where it could be causing my problems
99 Wolverine Carb Trouble
