Did you play with the pilot jet #35 ists important that goes back in at the same number of turns as it came out.

Here how to clean a slide carb but the bottom end is the sames as your CV carb.Disassembly and Cleaning of a Mikuni Round slide Carburetor

Here is a good read on a CV carb.http://www.gadgetjq.com/keihin_carb.htm

 

Could be a loose jet that didn't get bottomed out! or possible Intake leak!!

 

# 35 was one that I replaced, I am pretty sure. I also believe that it screws in the whole way until it bottoms out, as there is no spring on it to retain a setting. Are you saying that it is adjustable?

Is so, my goose is cooked, as that is enclosed in the bowl when assembled & I have no clue what the setting might be...and can't adjust while it is running...

 

Can someone provide us with the proper adjustment settings for the carb? I do not have a manual to refer to. Also, Can someone confirm that there are (3) adjustment screws that require a proper setting?

If that #35, which I believe is in the float bowl requires a certain number of turns, I may be hosed on this one, because I tightened it down completely, which would most likely damage the seat...

However, I don't believe that one is adjustable, from looking at the old one I still have on the bench - that is, if I am looking at the correct one, which I am pretty sure I am.

Will wait for some more info. from you guys, as there is no sense in tearing this thing apart again if I don't know what to look for/adjust.

Thanks!

 

pilot mixture screw plug remove is the one im talking about

 

Thanks for the clear pic, gaspumpcity,

Ok, I know which one you are referring to. The idle mixture seems to be good on mine, it is the mid - circuit that is giving me probs. After tearing it apart, cleaning it for a second time, it is still not running right, so I have had enough fun.

I am having a bike mech fix it on Monday. I also succeeded in cross thread that stupid plastic nut on the choke cable, lol. Is that an area where an air leak could occur, or is that not a big deal in that area?

 

that plastic choke cable thing is bullcrap too. I had one break off on the threads last year and to replace it, you end up buying that whole little assembly. And its not cheap either for what it amounts to. I wonder if its not seating in good and making your choke partially engaged.

 

Did you replace the throttle needle and seat with the rebuild kit?
Some of the seats can be put in upside down. Not sure if the grizzly is one of them but I worked on either a grizz or kodiak and put a seat in upside down. Had the same symptoms as you. Would idle great but as soon as I hit the throttle it would start back- firing and die. Could get it to throttle up a little if feathering the throttle just right.

Replaced each part one at a time till I figured out what I did. And some of the china made rebuild kits just wont work period. The needle and seat are the wrong angles and don't let enough fuel thru to work correctly.

If you've still got your old parts I would replace throttle needle and seat and make sure seat is in correctly.

 

I didn't replace the throttle needle, as I didn't want to disassemble the top of the carb. But did the seat. The screws can only go in one way on this one. I can't figure this one out for the life of me; I have rebuilt countless carbs w/out a hitch, & usually do 2 or 3 chainsaw carbs in the fall season without any problems...

Oh well...it might not be so bad, but these things are a real bear to pull off the quad, especially kinking that throttle cable repeatedly...

 

Only way to get the seat out is from the top of the carb. You have to push it thru after the main jet is pulled out. It is not threaded. It's press fit and main jet holds it in place.

It's #20 in the diagram above. But if you didn't take the top apart, that's probably not the problem.
Can you throttle it up with the choke on?