bought it from a neighbor, it needed a starter clutch and a battery. It also has a loud tapping noise, possibly the valves are too toght or too loose,,i gave 440 bucks for it..
I took it to Carolina Adventure World ATV park and it ran for 3+ hours.. guess ill have to adjust the valves, replace control arm bushings and tighten the hubs up and im ready to run again
Im new to the whole atv scene,, been Road Course racing cars for 7 years. My real Question is where can i find parts afermarket and factory replacement parts for the Warrior?
Thanks for your time guys and Gals!!
oh and i had some lucas oil treatment for autos in the garage and i poured some in with the oil, is that bad for the wet clutch??
The Lucas Oil treatment i am unsure of, but I can't imagine it being good for the clutch.
The loud tapping sounds like it is most definitely the valves.
As far as parts go, just search it on Google. Warrior parts are some of the easiest to come by and most all parts dealers sell Warrior parts.
__________________ 2000 Yamaha Warrior The Engine: .040" over Wiseco 10.25:1 piston--Port/Polish--Webcam 84grind--Titanium Valve Springs The Air: Dynatek CDI--FMF Powerbomb header--HMF Sport Exhaust--K&N Pro Design Intake Drivetrain: Barnett Clutch--Maxxis Razr2 fronts--ITP Mud Lite 22" rears--13/40 stock gearing--D.I.D. X Ring Chain The Rest: ASR +2 A-Arms, Inline Fuel Filter, Full skids, shock covers, MSR handlebars, braided stainless brake lines, black painted frame, Powermadd hand guards, DG Bumper
its pretty beat up, but its great for me learning to trail ride, my buddies all had 500 or bigger, and auto clutches.. must make ridin alot easier.. its got no rear brake, and the intake is all rigged up, project for sure.. the lights arnt the best, and it needs some sort of rackfront or rear..
I got it to corn my deer stands so i didnt get my truck all muddy and its easier to navigate down trails instead of the truck.
drain the oil and take the oil treatment out. you'll probabaly need a new clutch sooner now too. the oil treatment has copper in it and will mar the frictions in the clutch pack.
It really sounds like you got a pretty good deal for a starter/learner quad. Warrior's are great to begin on as they hard hard to break but when they do part's are easy to find and they are not difficult to work on.
__________________ 2000 Yamaha Warrior The Engine: .040" over Wiseco 10.25:1 piston--Port/Polish--Webcam 84grind--Titanium Valve Springs The Air: Dynatek CDI--FMF Powerbomb header--HMF Sport Exhaust--K&N Pro Design Intake Drivetrain: Barnett Clutch--Maxxis Razr2 fronts--ITP Mud Lite 22" rears--13/40 stock gearing--D.I.D. X Ring Chain The Rest: ASR +2 A-Arms, Inline Fuel Filter, Full skids, shock covers, MSR handlebars, braided stainless brake lines, black painted frame, Powermadd hand guards, DG Bumper
So alittle update...had a bad tapping,,, went to adjust the valves today and found on the intake side there was NO adjuster bolt and nut... this was after a previous 3.5 hour session at an atv park... closest yamaha dealer was an hour out 1 way... so we went out back looked at a few civic adjusters too big,, too small. oh wait here is an Accord lets check it.. was mushroomed on one end so we grinded it off.. fit like a jewel, sweet Accord Powa! specd it,, cranked up,, total different beast!! bAd part is, where is the parts that were suppose to be there drain bolt is stripped so thats gonna be on order and a filter...
cleaned it up alittle, put the fenders back on, and installed some lights from a spare Polaris
Stop running the engine! You need to find that locknut and adjuster before you ride anymore otherwise it could cause some serious internal damage (cam, valves, piston, etc). About the best you can do is pull the camshaft out and feel around in the head--but it is probably partially lodged in somewhere. I had that happen with my Warrior and I just had to pull the head off and shake it around and it fell out.
__________________ 2000 Yamaha Warrior The Engine: .040" over Wiseco 10.25:1 piston--Port/Polish--Webcam 84grind--Titanium Valve Springs The Air: Dynatek CDI--FMF Powerbomb header--HMF Sport Exhaust--K&N Pro Design Intake Drivetrain: Barnett Clutch--Maxxis Razr2 fronts--ITP Mud Lite 22" rears--13/40 stock gearing--D.I.D. X Ring Chain The Rest: ASR +2 A-Arms, Inline Fuel Filter, Full skids, shock covers, MSR handlebars, braided stainless brake lines, black painted frame, Powermadd hand guards, DG Bumper
However, even if you end up having to pull the head to get it out you still got a good deal really. Gasket sets aren't that expensive.
__________________ 2000 Yamaha Warrior The Engine: .040" over Wiseco 10.25:1 piston--Port/Polish--Webcam 84grind--Titanium Valve Springs The Air: Dynatek CDI--FMF Powerbomb header--HMF Sport Exhaust--K&N Pro Design Intake Drivetrain: Barnett Clutch--Maxxis Razr2 fronts--ITP Mud Lite 22" rears--13/40 stock gearing--D.I.D. X Ring Chain The Rest: ASR +2 A-Arms, Inline Fuel Filter, Full skids, shock covers, MSR handlebars, braided stainless brake lines, black painted frame, Powermadd hand guards, DG Bumper
yeah, im hoping it found a good home maybe i will pull it in a few weeks, not gonna ride anyway due to work and an upcoming roadrace event. i gotta order some parts for the racecar before i hit the track in November. its an ongoing thing, I love it!!!
Something I just noticed, actually that you ought to know. That is not a 95 Warrior. That's the original 87/88 model as that was the only two years they made them with that front end design--but I don't think that makes it a bad deal for you either way.
Anyhow, whenever you get to the tear down to find the part I would definitely just try taking the cam out first, which is the access panel on the upper left side of head, has a retainer with 2 bolts and you have to take the timing chain sprocket off--use the sprocket bolt to pull the cam out while engine is at TDC. It may also help to go ahead and take the valve covers off also and just fish around with a magnet or wire or something to see if you can't find it that way. Since it hasn't caused any major problems yet it is to still be in the head somewhere. On the bright side, at least, it sounds like you know your way around an engine and a Warrior motor is quite simple to work on.
__________________ 2000 Yamaha Warrior The Engine: .040" over Wiseco 10.25:1 piston--Port/Polish--Webcam 84grind--Titanium Valve Springs The Air: Dynatek CDI--FMF Powerbomb header--HMF Sport Exhaust--K&N Pro Design Intake Drivetrain: Barnett Clutch--Maxxis Razr2 fronts--ITP Mud Lite 22" rears--13/40 stock gearing--D.I.D. X Ring Chain The Rest: ASR +2 A-Arms, Inline Fuel Filter, Full skids, shock covers, MSR handlebars, braided stainless brake lines, black painted frame, Powermadd hand guards, DG Bumper
95 Yamaha Warrior
drain bolt is stripped so thats gonna be on order and a filter...
maybe i will pull it in a few weeks, not gonna ride anyway due to work and an upcoming roadrace event. i gotta order some parts for the racecar before i hit the track in November. its an ongoing thing, I love it!!!
