So I just got my first quad... a 98 warrior. Looked good and the price was right for me ($1000 - was this a good price?).
only obvious issue is the crank case is missing a bolt location (top one - looks like it snapped off and was repaired smooth) for the front sprocket cover. I figure I will rig something up to cover it.
I have a question. Getting it into neutral is a bit of a pain. It shifts fine and goes into neutral when off is easy... but when running it is a pain... any ideas where to start.
also... being new to me what should I do right off the bat to make sure everything is OK?
A grand! Thats a steal! Nice looking wheeler too. My 1998 warrior is hard to find neutral too, I wouldnt worry bout it to much, it is annoying though. I recently replaced my clutch and it helped out the problem a noticable amount. Good luck and have fun.
looks like its in pretty good shape, id say it was worth $1000, i see it has an aftermarket front bumper and brush guards, some1 made a custom endcap for the pipe, things i do when i get a new used quad/bike is change the oil, new plug, clean airfilter, check tire pressures and check the valve clearances.
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91 357 Warrior:
Bored .040 With Wiseco 10.25:1 High Comp Piston,Mild Porting
Hotcam Stage1 Cam,Vesrah Valves,RMStator
HMF Exhaust, Dyno-Jet Jetkit,Mod Quad Clamp On K&N Filter Kit(No Lid)
JT Sprockets, DID Chain,13/40 Gearing, MSR Hi-Rise Bars, Razr Tires
Flipped Rims Front And Back,EBC Clutch, Inline Filter, Black Hubs.
"There Is No Mod Better Then Seat Time"
Definitely looks like you got yourself a good deal there. Warrior's are known for having a hard to find neutral once they are warm. The only thing that I know of that really helps is installing an oil cooler kit--because you will notice over time, the hotter the engine gets, the harder and harder it gets to find neutral.
__________________ 2000 Yamaha Warrior The Engine: .040" over Wiseco 10.25:1 piston--Port/Polish--Webcam 84grind--Titanium Valve Springs The Air: Dynatek CDI--FMF Powerbomb header--HMF Sport Exhaust--K&N Pro Design Intake Drivetrain: Barnett Clutch--Maxxis Razr2 fronts--ITP Mud Lite 22" rears--13/40 stock gearing--D.I.D. X Ring Chain The Rest: ASR +2 A-Arms, Inline Fuel Filter, Full skids, shock covers, MSR handlebars, braided stainless brake lines, black painted frame, Powermadd hand guards, DG Bumper
yea changed mine over to synthetic oil and adjusted the clutch a lil n it seemed to go itno neutral a lot easier. yea thats a great deal i gave 1100 for my 98 mines in just as good of shape but is blue
thanks everyone... I'm used to the clutch and shifting on my street bike. I just expected this to be the same... clutch pull requires much more effort then the street bike as does shifting... guess I will just have to get used to it.
I will be ordering oil filters, this week and will change the oil. Never did valves before but I guess I'll give it a go...
I am planning on pulling the exhaust this week and painting with bbq paint... probably pull the foot controls and paint them too...
one more thing... when I shut the engine down I sometimes get a clunk from the front of the engine. Is this anything to be concerned about?
The clunk is normal. Just about every warrior does that. It's the starter clutch that causes that.
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- For your safety, stay where it's safe
97 Warrior 350
Freshly Rebuilt Engine, FMF Slip-on Exhaust (Wrapped), Keihin 38mm PE Carb, K&N Air Filter & Pre-Charger, Renthal Handle Bars, Raptor Clutch Cable Mod, Pro Grip Grips, AC Racing Bumper, AC Racing Grab Bar, AC Racing Skid Plate, AC Racing Swing Arm Skid Plate, Wild Skinz Shock Covers, GBC Shredders
I learned something else new... unlike my street bike when you are not using the ATV you should turn the petcock to the off position. Left it open over night and found fuel under the ATV. Dripped out from a tube on the bottom of the carb... won't do that again
First post and new (to me) quad
