My Warrior has no fire what is it
The wire colors do change a LOT from year to year, as do the connector type. Take a look at RickyStator's website..he has pictures of the different type connectors in different years. It's easy to get the one you need with those pics.
The resistance values noted are reasonable...different year stators vary a good bit. You MUST have similar (not EXACT) readings on PAIRS of wires. Two wires will show a reading (and no reading to the other two wires). Say, you get a reading on a pair of wires, but NOTHING on the other pair..you have a stator failure. The most likely problem is the pickup coil.
Looking AT your 4-pin rectangular connector, the RED wire and the wire directly below it (latch at the top) are one pair. The OTHER pair is the pickup coil.
PLEASE NOTE: The term 'pickup coil' is used because that is what's on RickyStators site. Note that term is NOT used above. That is part of the confusion..the different terms used, AND the different stator configurations from model to model. The 'pickup coil' is the trigger for the CDI..tells it when to fire the ignition coil. It is the separately mounted (outside the rotor) single coil.
I just replaced (last week) a pickup coil in an '03. The '02-05 use the same stator. The new pickup coil measured around 230ohms. The failed unit was open (no reading, infinite resistance). The multiple varnish-coated coils supply the power to run the machine and charge the battery. Ohm readings of those shows basically a short..very little resistance.
Replacing just the pickup coil isn't real simple..it's not hugely complicated. You need to fish the new coil wires through the existing harness and rubber plug at the stator cavity. The fasteners in the stator area are generally pretty much stuck..a mechanical impact is a necessity. Do yourself a favor..replace the cheesy panhead screws with either allens or flanged 8mm headed bolts.
If you get a pickup coil from RickyStator, they will send you new socket connectors if you ask...complete with the little rubber plugs that fit in the back. The connectors do remove easily from the plug. Use something like a mechanics scribe to lift the retaining clip from the INside face (opposite where the plugs are) and the pin will easily slide out.
I chose to NOT use the new pins, cuz they are gold. The existing mates on the plug side of the connector are tin/lead. It's not a good idea to mix plating types in a connector. Dissimilar metal oxidation WILL occur..and a degraded connection is the result. I chose to splice the existing connectors to the new coil.
How about your spark cap? It's a resistor cap. Measure IT! You can use an NGKcap..cost is about $3. The OEM cap is more like $14.
Check your ignition coil. There are resistance values in the manual (that change as much as the stator values do with different models). You can check it empirically, too. Disconnect the input to the coil..it's a spade. Hook a spare plug to the output (with a known good cap). Ground the sparkplug shell. Using clip cords to the battery, tap the positive of the battery to the input. When you REMOVE the input, the sparky should snap loud enough to hear..and you should see a nice blue spark.
|
