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LT80 won't move

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Old 02-01-2014, 04:55 PM
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Default LT80 won't move

I checked on the lt80 last weekend and found a puddle of gas and oil under the atv. I also found that the exhaust was full of oil. I emptied it out, replaced the fuel petcock with one that isn't vacuum activated and got it running again.

Now, it just revs and doesn't move anywhere. I assume that the belt is soaked in oil and now needs to be replaced?

Is there anything else that I need to look out for?
 
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Old 02-02-2014, 02:42 AM
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If it is the belt wet, let it dry and it'll be ok. They're pretty tough.
Unless a crank seal went bad, I don't know why fuel would have got into the clutch area.
 
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Old 02-03-2014, 03:18 PM
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I was making an assumption about the oil or gas on the belt, based on the amount of fluids on the ground. I'm going to tear into it one night this week and see if I can find the problem. Can I buy one of your spacers to separate the foot pegs from each other?
 
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Old 02-03-2014, 04:38 PM
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ya, I was just letting you know about the belt.
Never know what's going on in there till it's open.
Sure, I'll make a spacer this week sometime.
Email me with your address and contact info please.
 
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Old 02-05-2014, 06:51 PM
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There was a little bit of dirty looking gas in the bottom of belt/clutch compartment. I don't know if that's enough to make the belt slip or not. The belt was wet where the gas was pooled at the bottom.

How do I check the clutch to make sure it's working properly? What else should I check or should I do while I'm in here?

 
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Old 02-05-2014, 10:11 PM
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Okay, I don't think that's gas in the picture. I pulled the rear clutch and it looks like the gear housing seal was leaking. The seal around the crankshaft looks to be in perfect condition and there are no signs of a leak there.

A couple of the rollers in the front pulley have flat spots on them, and it looks like the clutch pads are just about worn out, so I'm thinking that I'll just replace all of these parts while I'm in there.

Is this all of the parts that I need to replace in here?

GASKET, RECOIL STARTER Part # 131309004978
GASKET (7X15X0.6) Part # 131309004979
GASKET, CLUTCH COVER Part # 131309004944
ROLLER, MOVABLE DRIVE FACE Part # 131309007226
V BELT Part # 131309005028
CLUTCH ASSY Part # 131309007671
GASKET, GEAR BOX COVER Part # 131309004939
ROLLER, MOVABLE DRIVE FACE Part # 131309007226
O RING (D:3.1,ID:84.4) Part # 131309004981
PLATE, FRICTION Part # 131309007228

Also, if I'm leaving the engine stock, is there any reason to modify the clutch system?
 
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Old 02-05-2014, 11:40 PM
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Those are r/m part #'s. When you click on them it doesn't show anything.
I prolly have everything here that you need.
I have a good used rear clutch pack.
Yes. There is a reason to mod the clutchs with a stock motor.They bog a lil starting out so cutting the rear clutch shoes to 180g is something that alot have liked. It gives a slightly higher stall speed.
Some like removing 2 rollers from the front clutch too.
Another popular mod is to shave the head .030. It raises the compression slightly and makes it run much more efficient.
 
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Old 02-05-2014, 11:55 PM
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Shoot, I just got through ordering everything except for the rear clutch parts. I was thinking about holding off on that to see if replacing the worn front rollers and the belt fixed the issue.

Can you send me a pm with a price for a rear clutch if you have one?
 
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