I did this a few days ago and got:
pulser/pickup; bouncing all around .19 @ VAC20 scale
* This one seems low at .2 volts. Is this start or no start?
exciter/power source; 48.5 @ VAC200
Interesting point:
Testing the spark plug cap, I get OL on the digital meter with the setting @ the 20k scale. But, if I use the analog set at the RX10k the cap registers approximately 50 but goes up in resistance as it warms up. In fact, I put the cap on the top of the woodstove and then tested it. I got around 500 ohms right off the stove, almost too hot to hold, and it just kept dropping in resistance as it cooled off. This, plus the fact that the dealer blew the other coil up, make me suspicious. Was he putting in current that couldn't get out through the cap and it had to go somewhere, so it blew through the side of the coil itself?
*Did you get the test method I posted?
* I gotta go , AFV has a nimcompooparama episode on
I honestly don't remember if the .19 was a start or no start. It's all a blur now! LOL! I'm going to start writing down everything I do with this piece of junk from now on!
I saw no test method that you posted... where is it?
Nimcompoop???? You're watching a show about me? ROTFLMAO!
I did this a few days ago and got:
pulser/pickup; bouncing all around .19 @ VAC20 scale
exciter/power source; 48.5 @ VAC200
Interesting point:
Testing the spark plug cap, I get OL on the digital meter with the setting @ the 20k scale. But, if I use the analog set at the RX10k the cap registers approximately 50 but goes up in resistance as it warms up. In fact, I put the cap on the top of the woodstove and then tested it. I got around 500 ohms right off the stove, almost too hot to hold, and it just kept dropping in resistance as it cooled off. This, plus the fact that the dealer blew the other coil up, make me suspicious. Was he putting in current that couldn't get out through the cap and it had to go somewhere, so it blew through the side of the coil itself?
*If the voltage gets too high in the secondary of the coil the windings will short out. I thought you said that the cap had been replaced??
*If the voltage gets too high in the secondary of the coil the windings will short out. I thought you said that the cap had been replaced??
Ken, I have changed the coil twice now. However, I have had to use the same cap both times. If I said the cap had been replaced, it was in error. (Either that, or your memory is kapoot!) This is the OEM cap from 1988. HOLY CRAP..... do you think...................(I can't even say it! LOL!)
Ken, I have changed the coil twice now. However, I have had to use the same cap both times. If I said the cap had been replaced, it was in error. (Either that, or your memory is kapoot!) This is the OEM cap from 1988. HOLY CRAP..... do you think...................(I can't even say it! LOL!)
Jackie
Post # 35 I asked if you changed the coil to plug wire. That's what I was thinking about.
I just went down to the dealer and they tested the cap. They too, said it was bad. I purchased a new one and they gave me new wire too, since the new coil's wire was too short and I was using the old wire. I hooked it all up. The quad started, and I knew I was in trouble when I heard that familiar "hiccup" of a miss. It ran again for about 5 minutes and died. I cranked it over, it fired a few times, but wouldn't start. So, now I have to wonder if it is the CDI. That's the only part left. I'm so frustrated... I told the guy at the dealership that I would have paid him $100 for that cap if I KNEW it would get the problem fixed.
Could the CDI blow trying to send voltage to the plug if the voltage cannot be discharged via a spark?
I decided to start redoing some of the resistance tests, starting wih the stator/magneto/generator. The charging coil ohms out as it should. The power source/exciter ohms out within specs, as well. The pickup/pulser tests are STRANGE!
The Green book (Suzuki Service Manual) states the pickup/pulser should ohm out @ 90-140 ohms. With the analog tester set at RX1 at first it read 4 1/2 ohms. Hmmmm? So, I wondered what would happen if I turned the motor over to move the rotor to a different position. The needle went to a little over 30 then twitched a little. A few minutes later it fell back down to 4 1/2 again. This cannot be right. Yet, if I hook up my digital DVM, I get no reading at all on the pickup/pulser wires.
You need to sort out which meter works. Take your DVM and measure other things you have a spec on to see if it works.
Okay, okay... I am putting the analog meter back in the basement for now, and sticking to the new DVM. Happy now???? LOL! (However, in the Micronta's defense, it DID test the CDI resistances well and I had absolutely crazy readings with the DVM. It must be due to the different scales/ranges)
Okay, here's the deal. I went back to the garage armed with my new DVM and got down to the testing of the stator/magneto and it's windings. I got the DVM to register this time!
Pick-up: Service Manual states 90 - 140 ohms
Tested cold @ 118 ohms
after a short ride @ 136.5
after running for about 45 minutes 159.4
Power source: Service manual states 105 - 160 ohms
Tested cold @ 125.1 ohms
after a short ride @ 150.5
after running for about 45 minutes 176.1
I have to say, in the 45 minutes I had the bike running, driving it hard, but mostly idling, it never missed a beat this time. I got all my lawn furniture put in the barn, and brought over 2 loads of wood to the house. It idled a lot and never sounded better. The only thing I noticed was; the longer it ran, the higher the idle became. Not drastic, but elevated a tad from when I turned the choke off when it was warming up.
