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  #1  
Old 03-21-2012, 07:39 PM
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Default 2005 700 Sportsman Crankshaft walking

I have a 2005 700 Sportsman. Here is what happened. Out riding one day, everything is great. next day go to ride and it will start but not idle. The ETC circuit was checked and found open. I had a code 21 (I believe) so the crank position sensor was changed. Still the same thing.

Took the right side magneto cover off and saw that the end of the crankshaft was rubbing onto the magneto outer cover. Took off stator and inner case cover and see that he crankshaft journal is protruding beyond the case about .250". I havent taken off the clutch yet to see if I have the same movement on the otherside. I also noticed that one of the gears behind the magneto cover have aluminum on them from rubbing on the case. It appears that the crankshaft is moving side to side in the case. Is this possible? What causes it?

Any thoughts are appreciated!
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  #2  
Old 03-21-2012, 10:08 PM
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Welcome to the forum! Pull up on the crank shaft to see if any play up and down.If ANY(no matter how small), the crank shaft probably out of balance causing the magneto side engine case plain bearings to wear down excessively. You might better tear this one down if it has slack before it could cost some more $$ if it takes out the crank gear, cam gear, counter balancer gear, and oil pump gear as these have to be purchased as a set if damaged along with possible piston or crank damage. OPT
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  #3  
Old 03-22-2012, 09:50 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by old polaris tech View Post
Welcome to the forum! Pull up on the crank shaft to see if any play up and down.If ANY(no matter how small), the crank shaft probably out of balance causing the magneto side engine case plain bearings to wear down excessively. You might better tear this one down if it has slack before it could cost some more $$ if it takes out the crank gear, cam gear, counter balancer gear, and oil pump gear as these have to be purchased as a set if damaged along with possible piston or crank damage. OPT

There is no play up and down. I cant physically move it left to right either.
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  #4  
Old 03-22-2012, 02:17 PM
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Pto (clutch side) lower and upper case have ridges cut in for the spring around the bearing and ridge for the crank seal. It's not impossible for the crank to move a fractional bit,but if you say there is NO up and down play on the crank,then something is causing the rubbing or wear you're describing?Could be possible,but I've never seen one do it.It is possible for the cam to move a fraction bit since it just slides into the case and is held in along with the balancer by the outer plate(this might be what you're talking about on grinding?) I've seen the 700 do about everything else though when they were brought into the shop. OPT
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  #5  
Old 03-22-2012, 08:25 PM
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Default Took it apart

I took the engine apart today and found out that the mag side crank walked out about .327". Just enough for the crank to rub on the inside of the case, destroying it. Ironically, the same distance that there is now between the rod and crank, there was the same amount sticking out from the case. Problem solved! Ive got a picture, but cant figure out how to post it.

When I took the clutch off I noticed several craks in the face and the belt was burnt. Im guessing that the crank was rubbing on the side of the case which was pulling the engine rpm down creating my no idle condition. Also because of the rubbing it was taking more power to turn the engine and heating up the clutch and the belt.

Thanks for your help! You wouldnt happen to have a crank and case would you? or a whole engine?
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  #6  
Old 03-22-2012, 08:44 PM
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in order to post a picture you need to have 15 posts but you can use something like photobucket and post a link to the picture
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  #7  
Old 03-24-2012, 07:49 AM
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Heres a tech question. Will the cases and crank off of a NON-efi engine (say a 2002) work on my 2005. I dont see anything efi specific on cases, yet the part numbers are different. The part numbers on the cranks are the same. I see several pre-efi engines for sale cheaper than the cases and cranks are new.
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  #8  
Old 03-24-2012, 02:08 PM
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I'd be lying to you if I said I was positive an efi case would interchange with a carb model case as there was even a change in case numbers(built after 10/02/2003) even for the carb models. What changes if any I really don't know. But I "assume" that they should interchange since the main difference wasn't in the lower parts,but just the fuel delivery and sensors which were external of the case and you could reuse your cylinder, efi system,magneto cover with the crank sensor outlet,etc.But you know what the word ASS-U-ME means! OPT
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  #9  
Old 03-25-2012, 12:16 PM
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Thanks for your help! Itn nice to have knowledge like yours to tap into.
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  #10  
Old 04-14-2012, 09:44 AM
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I thought that I would update. I used an 02 crankcase with my 05 top end. Two issues came up. The first is that the cylinder head bolts on the 05 engine are 1mm smaller than the 02. I used the 02 bolts to put it together. Once together I put the anti freeze in an discovered a leak where the cylinder mates to the cases. I checked the torque of the bolts. All were good. I researched more and see that the 02-03 engines use a felt base gasket and the 05-up engines use a metal gasket. I replaced the metal with the felt and that problem was solved.

Now for a new issue. The engine idles like a small block Chevy with a performance cam in it. It has a lope that sounds cool, but obviously isn't right. If I rev it up, the engine purrs. If I bring it to idle, it will eventually die. From my car experience it sounds like the timing is off a bit. During assembly, I aligned the dot on the crank gear with the dot on the counterbalance gear. Then I aligned the dot on the cam gear with the dot on the counterbalance gear. Here's the weird thing. The service manual says to align the cam gear with the key way of the counterbalance shaft but the pictures shows the dots lined up. The dot an the key way are one tooth different. I'm thinking that if I was one tooth off, the intake valves are opening too late causing the rough idle and eventual engine shut off. What is the right way? Dots or key way?

I was also thinking about the TPS. If someone turned the screw when it had its initial idle issue, it would throw the setting to the ECU off at idle. I don't have the tool to connect the TPS to my volt meter that is shown in the book. I know back in the day of the Polaris RXL snowmobile, we could probe the wires directly with the volt meter. Any thought on this?

Thanks for the help!
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Old 04-14-2012, 09:44 AM
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Tags
700, adapter, atv, clutch, crank, crankshaft, harness, polaris, position, pu47082, rubs, sensor, sportsman, test, tps, walk, works



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