New Trailer! Aluma 77"x12'
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New Trailer! Aluma 77"x12'
FINALLY found one after months and months of hunting on craigslist. This deal popped up last night and I snatched it up within 60 minutes of it being posted via phone call. $1200 later and I am happy as a clam! It's an Aluma 77" wide x 12' long trailer. Lights all work, good tires, etc. I was bent on getting an aluminum trailer for the ease of maneuvering around the yard, lighter for my ATV to haul around if need be as well as the anti-rust factor. Bearings seem good so far but I will go through them before spring. New one of this model (Aluma 7712) is $3000!
Got it today and had to see how the quad fits right away!
Had to load sideways in the front to see how one loaded forward in the back would fit...plenty of room I think!
Got it today and had to see how the quad fits right away!
Had to load sideways in the front to see how one loaded forward in the back would fit...plenty of room I think!
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I just jacked up each wheel and gave them each a good spin and boy...it spun...and spun...and spun...and spun some more.
So my thought is that the bearings must be pretty good. What are people's experience with bearings and repacking them? The preventative brain in me says to repack now so I know when they were done last and it was done "right" (according to how well I did them job myself! )There isn't a grease valve on the end which makes the periodic "adding of grease" easy. I think I'd like to maybe add that somehow?
So my thought is that the bearings must be pretty good. What are people's experience with bearings and repacking them? The preventative brain in me says to repack now so I know when they were done last and it was done "right" (according to how well I did them job myself! )There isn't a grease valve on the end which makes the periodic "adding of grease" easy. I think I'd like to maybe add that somehow?
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#8
be careful if you get the grease serts on the cap. it could knock the rear seal out from the lack of displaced pressure. but it won't knock the seal out if you pump it up easy. when you repack your bearings, get the numbers off of them and the race so you'll have them in a file and know the replacement numbers. trust me, it's hard to get the numbers from a bearing that's been destroyed!. good luck!
#9
I just jacked up each wheel and gave them each a good spin and boy...it spun...and spun...and spun...and spun some more.
So my thought is that the bearings must be pretty good. What are people's experience with bearings and repacking them? The preventative brain in me says to repack now so I know when they were done last and it was done "right" (according to how well I did them job myself! )There isn't a grease valve on the end which makes the periodic "adding of grease" easy. I think I'd like to maybe add that somehow?
So my thought is that the bearings must be pretty good. What are people's experience with bearings and repacking them? The preventative brain in me says to repack now so I know when they were done last and it was done "right" (according to how well I did them job myself! )There isn't a grease valve on the end which makes the periodic "adding of grease" easy. I think I'd like to maybe add that somehow?
I'd clean, pack, and adjust now.
As far as adding a grease fitting that can be done with Bearing Buddy. Never tried them myself but it seems like a cool idea. Genuine Bearing Buddy Web Site
#10
Nice! I picked up a used Triton 101" wide by 10' last year and will never go back to steel. It came from the factory with the grease zerks built into the hubs for easy periodic application of grease. If you search aluma's website they may offer easy maint. hubs or just pick up a set of bearing buddies. To check your bearings just jack it up and give the wheel a jiggle up and down. You should have little to no movement. Rolling forward and back should be an ever so slight resistance but no more. If they spin super easy with absolutely no resistance they may need a shot of grease.