I am working on my cousins Polaris Sportsman 90 that has no spark. He had it in the shop for carb repair and they told him it had weak spark. He replaced the external coil,wire and plug and now has no spark. Can anyone tell me what it might be before I tear things apart? Could it be the stator? Thank you.

 

Most likely the stator is bad.But before replacing that I would check compression and if it is low I would part out the bike before spending the cash on a stator and topend.Yuo can easily get more into it than it is worth.

 

DITTO on above post. The stator is number one cause for problems on the older 50-90 cc machines as far as no spark conditions because of air intake design to cool stator that allowed too much water and dirt to enter. Rare to have a cdi or coil go bad. OPT

 

This problem seems to common. I have a 2003 sportsman 90cc with no spark. I have limited mechanical skills and zero voltmeter skills. I would love some help from the forumto help narrow problem. I don't mind buying replacement parts, just don't want to replace unnecessary components.

There is no battery connected. The bike is in rough shall, however if I can get spark I will start putting a few bucks into it. I would love to have help to determine if its the coil, stator, or cdi.


I did a test on the coil. Lead post (top of coil) to ground on coil (black wire attached to bolt that is mounted to frame) continuity is good. Reading of 000

Lead post of coil to spark plug wire - reading of .1

Again any help is appreciated. Please keep it simple as I have limited skills.

Thanks

 

Disconnect the black wire from the cdi and see if you have spark. If you do have spark check out wiring on the ignition switch and emergency kill switch according to the manual.
Touch the black and red probes on your meter to see if they zero out. Some do,some don't. If it doesn't you have to make allowances for what the meter reads on resistance tests.
Primary coil tab to ground .02-.03 ohms resistance. If it shows infinity(oo) according to the manual replace the coil,plus check that the coil is grounded properly.
Secondary coil test,coil tab to plug wire with cap on 8.0-9.3 k ohms
Coil tab to plug wire(cap removed) 3.0 to 4.2k ohms
Stator wiring tests: Black to white/red 450 ohms
Black to blk/red 800 ohms
Black to yel/red 0.5 ohms
Black to white 0.6 ohms
Black to ground 0 ohms
These readings do allow up to + or - 20% differences.
Plus you can pull the plastic cover from the stator and see if the pickup coil and stator are muddy or dirty. Cleaning them up may help. Water was a big problem on these as they would short stators out easily also.

 

thanks OPG - I was hoping that you'd reply. You seem very knowledgeable and I truly appreciate you help. I will test as you described. I read this post earlier in the week. the bike does not have a battery. I have the left brake lever locked, key on,run switch on, and emergency cord attached.

I disconnected the black wire located at the cdi yesterday and kicked it over,,no visible spark.


when voltmeter is set to continuity - it reads (000) when probes touched together.

I will do the test as mentioned and get back to you. I have a busy week ahead of me... - I will need your help and I will get back to you...

just to confirm, I can do the coil test without kicking it and with the coil still attached to bike. secondly, I can to the stator test through the 3 prong plug and 2 additional wires that feed from the stator?

feel free to pm me if you wish to make the lines of communication easier.

thanks kindly

 

Touch the black and red probes on your meter to see if they zero out. (000)



Primary coil tab to ground .02-.03 ohms resistance. on the bike and removed (000) If it shows infinity(oo) according to the manual replace the coil,plus check that the coil is grounded properly.

Secondary coil test,coil tab to plug wire with cap on 8.0-9.3 k 17.93 ohms

Coil tab to plug wire(cap removed) 3.0 to 4.2k ohms Elbow to be removed at end of plug wire ?

Stator wiring tests:

Black to white/red 450 ohms 448 - set at 2000 ohms
Black to blk/red 800 ohms 1
Black to yel/red 0.5 ohms 01.2 set at 200 - 000set at 20k

Black to white 0.6 ohms 1.2 set at 200 -000 set at 20k


Black to ground 0 ohms 0.8 set at 200 - 000 set at 20 k
These readings do allow up to + or - 20% differences.

 

Second exciter coil (black to black/red) shows bad if you just show 1 ohm resistance,plus coil doesn't show too good either if the readings are right. Seems the second exciter was the major fault area on most of the youth stators. If you do decide to replace the stator,I'd be a little leery on some on cheap ones listed on ebay.Some people have had problems with them.Coils you can get cheap anywhere if needed. Other than a pricey oem stator,this place has a good reputation.Ricky Stator

 

Thanks, just to confirm the bike was not being cranked while test was being conducted. The engine has 120psi compression. I do know where a part bike is. Based on the information i should start with coil and stator????

Secondly, before I fork over money to parts bike, should I test parts in same manner?? If readings coincide it should be good components???

Is there any special precautions when removing stator???

Thanks again

 

Taking a chance on any parts bikes. Resistance tests are just static tests with no power involve,either from the battery, cranking the engine over,etc.You have to have a flywheel puller that screws into the flywheel to be able to remove it then you can remove the screws holding the stator.http://www.ebay.com/itm/27mm-SPECIAL-PULLER-FLYWHEEL-STATOR-POLARIS-OUTLAW-PREDATOR-50-90-SPORTSMAN-90-/151274386499?hash=item2338a7f443&item=151274386499&pt=Motors_Automotive_Tools&vxp=mtr