Well my wife got me a 12 volt torque wrench for valentine day and I apparantly do not know how to use it!! The stud broke off . 1) Is it still fine to drive for plowing purpose untill i fix it? 2) What is the process I need to put on a new stud? Thanks in advance.
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2007 sportsman 800-glacier 2 plow, front and rear bumpers, lock n ride rear cargo box, hand warmers..Trade in for 850 xp eps
2009 850 xp eps-RT25 winch, Hand and thumb warmers, front and rear lock n ride cargo box's-Mine
2009 550 xp- 3500# polaris winch, hand and thumb warmers-Wifes
all you need to do is pound it out toward the inside of the hub and then reinstall the new one by pounding from the reverse side aways then tighen up.
oh yea and if its steel wheel its only like 12 ft lbs to tighten and around 7o for alum. rims.
I have aluminum. Manual says 90 lbs. I used my manual torque wrench on the other 3 also and I had it set at 80 lbs. For some reason the 4th lug nut did not make the wrench click and I over tightened it. Do you think it will be fine to plow with for now?
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2007 sportsman 800-glacier 2 plow, front and rear bumpers, lock n ride rear cargo box, hand warmers..Trade in for 850 xp eps
2009 850 xp eps-RT25 winch, Hand and thumb warmers, front and rear lock n ride cargo box's-Mine
2009 550 xp- 3500# polaris winch, hand and thumb warmers-Wifes
I think you'll be fine for plowing or putzing around. I wouldn't go out jumping it or racing though.
The studs are easily replaced, stendori pretty much explained the process...pound it out, although I don't "pound" them back in. I get it started with a few light, straight taps and tighten down, it should suck in tight and seat properly.
I missed that you have alum rims...don't use the rim to seat the stud!! Pull your wheel, smack the stud out with a hammer, spray the hole and new stud with wd/40 or other oil. Insert it from the back, make sure it's going straight. Slide a big oversized nut, thick washers...anything to take up space. Install the nut and crank it down till the stud bottoms out. If you have steel wheels you can just use that to bottom out and seat the stud rather than the spacers of some sort.
OK... Just got back from the dealer with a new stud. I got the old stud out fine. When I go to put in the new one in through the back it is to long and I can not get it back in the hole because it hits the disc. It is the correct stud. Do I have to take the hub nut off and disassemble it 1st somehow?
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2007 sportsman 800-glacier 2 plow, front and rear bumpers, lock n ride rear cargo box, hand warmers..Trade in for 850 xp eps
2009 850 xp eps-RT25 winch, Hand and thumb warmers, front and rear lock n ride cargo box's-Mine
2009 550 xp- 3500# polaris winch, hand and thumb warmers-Wifes
The studs for aluminum wheels are longer than the studs for steel wheels.You have to loosen up the bolts for the brake rotor and possibly the caliper also to get enough clearance for the new stud to fit in.Find a nut that threads on the stud and use impact to draw the stud through the hole.
I recently replaced the stock studs with 3/8" longer studs to fit through spacers and ITP aluminum rims. The original studs came off with the disk/hub on, but I had to take them off to install the longer studs. Taking off the disk/hub was pretty simple. Go for it.
make sure you got the right studs for sure which are longer then the steel rim ones or you wont have enough threads to tightening up on. ya 90 ft lbs is right (couldnt remember for sure) but i have never used a torque wrench to tightening up my lug nuts as i use a 1/2" drive ratchet and give a good snug turn w/out any issues. you can crack the rim as well if you over tightening so dont over do it for sure. depending on wheel it is, yes you might have rto slide the brake caliper out of the way to put it back in but its not very hard. good luck.
Snapped my lug nut stud
