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Hey I got the cv out of the rear end the tire irons worked great two good pulls with the irons and yippy.I got a manual but in the pictures on how to there is a picture of the cv joint and on the end that goes in the rear end there is a flat ring near the 3'' black cylinder thingy lol and a skinny ring on the end of the spline.Mine only has the tiny ring on the end could you tell me if yours only had the one tiny ring on the end ?Did you pull the ***** out of the race and clean them there looks like a clip that hold everything in there and the kit with the new boot has pack of grease do I use all of that grease that came with the boot? I greatly appreciate your help let me know what you think.
I'm going to leave that one to OPT. I just did the outer one , it has a sirclip(I don't know what it is really called) that you spread and the CV taps right off. I have not looked at the inner CV joint. I'd rather not give you bad info with out really knowing.
Glad you got the shaft out. before you put it back together slather it up with neverseize.
This won't be the last time you need to remove it. I removed the upper A-arm link so I could get the entire axle assembly in a straight line then whacked it with a chuck of 4x4. make sure your splines are started before you hit it. You won't need to kill it. try to make sure the clip on the spline end is somewhat centered when you whack it home.
For me the bands holding the boot on are a royal pain in the ****. If you have the kind that require a special tool it is worth the $15.00 to get one. I borrowed one and still stuggled. The ones I just installed came with boots I got off ebay. they don't use the special tool, they pull tight and then you bend it back over on itself. they seam to be holding up OK.
Good luck and keep us informed. You are saving yourself a ton of money by doing this job yourself. I don't do a lot of rough terrain riding and this is the 3rd boot I've changed.
My splined shaft has one ring, rounded type, sounds the same as what you have.
As far as getting the joint apart that is where I'd ask OPT, Mine had not had a chance to get crud in there so I did not remove the steel *****. I wiped as much of the old grease out as I could then repacked as much as would go into the joint working it back and forth and put the rest into the boot just before sliding it back in place.
I took the cv joint to work and flushed it I can't even get any more grease out of the joint.I've not taken it apart but it seems to be pritty clean.I have not decided if I should take it apart or not there did not seem to have any grit in or around the joint I'll have to think about it.Thanks for the info.
I took the cv joint to work and flushed it I can't even get any more grease out of the joint.I've not taken it apart but it seems to be pritty clean.I have not decided if I should take it apart or not there did not seem to have any grit in or around the joint I'll have to think about it.Thanks for the info.</end quote></div>
[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-happy.gif[/img] if clean,just put a small amount of grease into cv and around bearings then the rest into the boot.Before installation just move cv all around to distribute the grease. The grease in the boot will will get into cv assy as you ride. Good luck
Retired and loving it! (Main job now,wake up the wife to go to work!)
92 Honda Night Hawk 750 (5500 actual miles)
2000 Chevy Silverado 1500 Sport side (268,000 miles,semi retired)
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I put the cv back together but I have come across a minor set back on the outer rear wheel bearing has separated part of the race of the bearing is on the cv joint itself and the rest is loose in the out assembly.I'm going to have to get a new rear bearing I have a book now and it shows how to remove the bearing with heat and freeze the bearing to install it.What I am in need of is a rear bearing number for my 2002 polaris sportsman if someone can give me one it would be great.I don't want to put it back together till the new bearing is in.I appreciated everyones help there is a lot of info on this site keep up the great work thanks again.
I am newbie to the ATV world and I have a question about CV replacement.
On my Honda cars, I just pry the whole (inner and outter) CV joint asembly out as 1 unit and replace it with a rebuilt set from the auto parts store. I then return the core to the auto parts store for a credit. Are there refurbished/rebuilt CV joint assemblies available or is the only option a brand new assembly??? If I had to replace with new CV joints, I would probably go with the boot replacement/regreasing route.
This removing the CV joint assemblty for boot replacement seems like a pain. I would rather just replace with a rebuilt CV assembly.
I have seen the entire assembly offered on several ebay sites. Lots of different models of atv's. You may be buying more then you need though. you would really need to beat your ATV hard to need a new shaft and if you keep on top of the boots ,replacing the CV joint itself is not all that common. Maybe if you are in mud a lot.
I know what you are saying with replacing the entire shaft with CV joints and boots.
I just did my daughters Honda and it was not even worth messing with a torn boot. The entire assembly was cheaper to replace.
The ATV's are not the same situation. you can get a pair of boots, grease and boot rings for $18.00. You need to take the axle out either way to do the job.
I'm sure it has to do with economy of scale. There are 1/2 million people in Sachaun making CV axle assemblies for Honda's for $2.00/day.
Polaris or the other manufacturers have you by the short and curlies when buying there original equipment.
I guess it all depends on what's broken as far as what you change. I've seen the entire assembly for $160.00 per side for a Polaris. The Honda was $60.00
Do a search here, there is a lot on the subject in the recent past.
I got it back together thanks to everyone here that offered some advise .I purchased a book so it will be good to have in the future the nut on the rear wheel that screws into the cv joint which the split pin goes threw what's the torque setting for it or rule of thumb on this the book says 32 to 52 ft pounds I find this more than a little weird.What did you do with yours just curious.