I agree that you shouldn't over tork any bolt or stud, but I'm only talking going from 30 to 40 ft lbs. not 90ft lbs. 10 ft lbs isn't going to over stress that stud that much to make it break. I'm only saying to tork a extra 10ft lbs only if people are having problems with them loosening up, insted of using loctite. That's all I'm saying.
So if we shouldn't be using 90 ft lbs, what should I be using? I'd rather not mess up the new 14" vision/bounty hunter combo that was just put on yesterday.
The Polaris shop manual and the owners manual both recommend 90 Ft pounds for the alloy wheels from the factory
I will call ITP tech support and post their answer here
I am happy to report that it did fine with three wheel studs at Paragon over the weekend
and the black on chrome wheels look bada$$ on the Black 800
I have a 2006 Sportsman 500 EFI Red Flame Limited Edition, and have had the lug nut strip out on me as well. What I found out was this: First, the lug nuts are softer than the studs, so I used a pick and pulled out the nut threads (looked like a spring) from the stud threads, then cleaned them up with a 3/8-24 thread restoring die. I work with high performance engines, so the next day, I called up ARP, the head stud company, and explained to them that the studs are 3/8-24 pitch and are at least grade 8 hardness, and this is what the technician said back. On a wheel stud, regardless of the wheel being steel or aluminum, his recommendation was that the maximum allowable torque was 50 ft. lbs., and if any lubricant was used on the threads, it reduces the coefficient of friction, so with any type of lube, the torque should be reduced to 40-44 ft. lbs. He responded to the torque spec in the shop manual and owner's manual of 90 ft. lbs. as most likely an error, which was never proofread, as it made it into both the shop and owner's manual, both of which I have.
it's correct. 90 ft lbs of torque for alum. rims and 27 ft lb for the steel rims. now that being said who in the heck actually gets a torque wrench out and does it. i use a 1/2 drive racket and tighten w/ a good snug turn and never had any wheel nuts ever come loose on any thing i've rode. i also have actually dented in the steel rims w/ too much torque and never broke or stripped a lug yet.
I use a torque wrench every time on the wheels and most other threaded retainers, those specs are there for a good reason otherwise your just guessing or breaking bolts.....
Actually, the people who engineer fasteners disagree, and here's a sample that I got in an email from one of them
Max Torque (foot-pounds) for clean, dry threads
Bolt size - Thread pitch Grade 2 Grade 5 Grade 8 Special Alloy
1/4-20 6 10 12 14
1/4-28 7 12 15 17
5/16-18 13 20 24 29
5/16-24 14 22 27 35
3/8-16 23 36 44 58
* 3/8-24 26 40 48 69 *
7/16-14 37 52 63 98
7/16-20 41 57 70 110
1/2-13 57 80 98 145
1/2-20 64 90 110 160
9/16-12 82 120 145 200
9/16-18 91 135 165 220
5/8-11 111 165 210 280
5/8-18 128 200 245 310
3/4-10 200 285 335 490
3/4-16 223 315 370 530
7/8-9 315 430 500 760
7/8-14 340 470 550 800
1-8 400 650 760 1130
1-14 460 710 835 1210
Owners manuals and shop manuals can be wrong. They are proofread and set up by people who have absolutely nothing to do with what the manual is in reference to. They just copy what is sent to them word for word.
well like i said, i could have no problem snapping a lug bolt if i tried. strenth and 1/2 drive is no problem. if your worried about over tightening just use a 3/8" ratchet w/ the smallest extenion u need to be close to it and snug it tight and recheck it othen like the book says. alot of common sence goes along ways in tightening any kind of nuts/bolts. just my own opinion.
lug nut torque - Aluminum ITP
