While trail riding last week I was thumbing through the display checking my odometer, hours, trip and tach. The tach at the time (while cruising down the trail about about 25mph) was reading 0.

I figured maybe just a glitch or something. I pulled off the trail, shut down for a few minutes, started back up, still reads 0.

Later on during the same ride, after having hit a few puddles n such, I came to a stop on the side of the trail to wait for my buddy and the quad stalled out (fairly typical for the EFI quads of that year that hadn't been reflashed). When my buddy caught up I tried to start the quad but it was a no-go.

He towed me back to camp whereby I took the panels off and removed the spark plug. It looked decent, light tan brown color, but it is 8 years old so I figured maybe that's my issue.

Bought a couple of new plugs and put one in. The quad started, although begrudgingly.

I let it run for a few minutes and shut it off again, happy that the plug had fixed the issue. About an hour later I went to go for a run on the quad and the damn thing wouldn't start again. I pulled the plug again, and checked for spark. It sparked on initial turning of the key but no more (that I could see). Put in the second new plug and the quad fired right up.

Went for a few short rides and everything seemed to be ok. The tach is working again. Then rolled to a stop a short way from my camp and the quad stalled again. Once more it would not start back up until after waiting about 5min.

This is the first issue I've had with this unit that gives me any concerns. As I cannot pin point the issue, nor have any clue on the duration of the issue, it makes me nervous using the machine for any rides alone.

Has anyone experienced this before? What was the resolution?

Thanks in advance!

 

Signals are processed through the ecm module then to the speedo such as the rpm reading. Sounds like a short either in the speedo harness/connector or even from the ecm. I'd check for any obvious wiring problems,plus even the pins in the connectors can pull back a little and cause intermittent connections. If going through water is causing some problems you might want to use dielectric grease on the inside of the plug cap and electrical connections to try to limit moisture. Plus not a bad idea while you're chasing wires to check the tbap and tps sensor wiring for any bare or soft feeling wires that can cause problems.This was the most common problem area on efi machines and better harness repair kits are available from Only The Best if needed. Another problem area is the control module at the front of the atv. Has several circuit breakers and multiple functions that it controls. If it starts to short out it can cause these intermittent problems also. Best to have a good service manual if you don't already have one to do what tests you can do at home. If you can't track it down,then Digital Wrench should be able to. http://polaris-atv.brssm.com/2006-Po...ce-Manual.html

 

Thanks for the tips. I have a manual for the bike which I got off another link you posted, so thanks for that as well. I guess I have some work to do :-/

 

Hey OPT,

Just curious if there is a way to tell if the PDM (Control Module) is faulty without simply replacing it with a known good unit? I'm thinking probably not as everything seems to be solid-state so unable to manually activate breakers etc.

They're a little pricey and I'd hate to replace it only to find it wasn't the issue.

Thanks!

 

Manual does show some dc voltage readings along with ac voltage for the regulator on some of the functions,but they're not always accurate. Pdm controls a lot things from the regulator,temp controller,battery protection circuit,lights relay,acc power,starter lock out,and fan. The pdm modules were problem areas also along with sensor wiring and connectors..How we checked them was through replacing with a known good one as you mentioned.Possible that you can remove the back cover and check for any burnt areas that may stand out.

 

Ok I will try that. It may simply be the connections to it, plus your previously mentioned sensor wiring. I finally pulled the front fenders etc off the quad my last time home and holy moely!! There's more wiring on this quad than was on my 1990 Mazda B2200. And the wire-loom, God bless it, keeps it all neat but makes it hard to chase the wiring from end to end.

Next trip home I have to make time for the poor girl. Check the stator winding resistance, output voltage etc. While I got the front off I need to check my valve clearances as well. Fun times.

By the way, thanks for being such an awesome asset on this board for all us Polaris owners. I know I really appreciate your input and guidance.

Cheers!

 

Hi again. I tried the error codes and got 1, 2, 6, 1 which from my limited research tells me it performed its self diagnosis and didn't find any errors in the items checked.

Part of me thinks logically the fix should be simple. Bad coil or ground perhaps. Any other suggestions?

Thanks again for all your help!

 

No codes for 1,2 or possibly 12. Code 61 is finish/end code after it completes running the diagnostics. Again shorts may not throw codes if this is what's happening.Worst case scenario(which sometimes is the best) is to have it hooked up to Digital Wrench if you can't find an obvious problem.

 

Well I found one of my problems and my hope is it didn't cause additional problems.

I finally got around to checking my stator and found that the three phases were short to ground. Once I removed the cover and saw the rust on the flywheel and bendix it was relatively apparent that I had gotten water in the flywheel / stator housing from the pull cord.

I pulled the flywheel off and noted a nice burn mark on the stator. New stator should be arriving soon and I will be replacing it when I get home again. I've already replaced the coil and plug wire. Hopefully this fixes it.

Now to get the damn recoil spring back in the housing!! !#$!#%!$#!%@#$!#$!!

 

Sounds like you found the problem. As far as the spring,hope you have good fingers..I always tied to roll the spring as tight as I could with both hands and slip it into the cavity and hooking the end tab at the same time.. Hard to do with old fingers.Most I could get,but if it got too hard or the spring distorted I just got a new one out of stock that was pre wound and had a wire around it.Then just slipped it in place while it rolled the wire up out of the cavity. I know that's cheating.