WHELP...parts came....i installed new piston and rings and pin and bearing ...020 over with bored out jug...put it all back together and it does the same...runs a bit and quits...but now it also backfires...maybe i screwed up the timing when i put the seal behind flywheel...not sure...but it does back fire now and turns over hard...at times...i mixed new gas too and pinched off the injector hose to veins...what ya think???????? i also took off that black wire to cdi like ya said and the black wire to overrev thingy...IF that timing has no mark...i did put the bolts back where the marks on housing were ..but now to take it all back apart the bolt for starter is in the way......through housing. how would i set timing then? nothing but fun. and all in all now it barely runs...before it would try to idle...now not so much..you hold the throttle open...it cranks and cranks...nothing...let off and just touch it open a bit with idle screw turned all the way in it tries to start and backfires...i tried the pin again on 3 and 4...then got pissed and gave up...so this is where i am now...

 

Before you tear back into the stator area do a resistance test on the stator and coil themselves. Find the wiring schematic for your your model in the manual link I listed.It shows the stator and coil resistance checks. Back firing can be from incorrect stator setting,but can also be a weak exciter coil,coil,or even a cdi. The stator has four wiring checks plus the coil primary and secondary you need to test. If these specs are + or - 20% of the specs,then suspect a cdi. You could have had mechanical problems(top end) along with electrical problems from the beginning.Plus in your original post about the po having a toggle on the cdi black wire? Might be something he was trying to fix.

 

ok thanks.....i went back out and put the clip on #1 and the idle screw in with the jet turned out 3 turns and it almost wants to idle...sputters like 15 seconds and quits...can a carb just NOT??? ive usually cleaned up the small engine ones and they do or dont or run like crap surge????.....i can do the tests...i printed up the whole book...also..i dont get this either...if i pump the throttle like 5 times...it will run same, 15 seconds and quits..guy at parts store plays with atvs too...he has 4 cdi units he says they fit a bunch of different ones....maybe ill borrow one of his next week...give a shot..also it was the brown wire i think he put a toggle switch in...i dont know what it goes to...ill look later this weekend and get what color...but im almost sure its brown.

 

Post back with the resistance tests. What the manual calls for and what you show. Plus just cleaning carbs without replacing at least the needle and seat may still cause problems.Best to install a carb kit so you can eliminate the carb as the problem as you've done the top end and crank seals already. The air screw usually sets between 1 1/2 -2 turns out from a lightly seated position. The clip on the jet needle is set on the 3rd notch from the top from the factory.Hopefully you can narrow down the problem.Be careful on changing a cdi that isn't designed for this model. Plus not a bad idea to recheck compression and see what you have.http://www.ebay.com/itm/Polaris-Sportsman-400-4x4-94-95-Carburetor-Carb-Rebuild-Kit-Repair-P400-/181443038460?pt=Motors_ATV_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2a3ed90cfc&vxp=mtr

 

ok i will...the carb has a brand new kit in it.... ill do a compression test when i do the tests...but it better be top notch...i took the jug to local race shop the do excellent work but charge. great shop you can eat off the floors but like i said they do racing stuff...BIG BUCKS...not shy about it either....ill let you know what i come up with..hell by the time im done with this damn thing....i may just buy another cause there wont be ANYTHING else left to do to it...ive still got brakes,tie rods, chain adj, and a few other things before october hunting season.

 

whelp...i did the compression ck... 135 psi...and the wire with the toggle switch in it is the brown wire...ill do the other tests and get back to ya...i did the coil test...says up to 6300...mine is 5900... at primary it says .3-.5 mine is .5 the test for the cdi they gave me isnt even close...none of my wires match...all different colors cept the black and brown...i have red, red/w and white and white/red...and brown and black and white/blue to coil kill so im looking for another test...found the stator test...ill do that tomorrow.

 

Compression is within range of what I usually got on new top ends. Between 135-145 psi. Shouldn't be a test on the cdi? Coil primary and secondary readings shows within range.Plus don't over look the plug cap resistance. Should be close to 5 k ohms resistance.Something simple as that can cause problems.Stator test should help narrow it down further.

 

ill do the stator tomorrow see what that says...i was looking at the wrong thing when i was typing it was the stator...sorry.i still dont have the right colors but im gonna look closer tomorrow..

 

Make sure you look at the right wiring schematic for the machine you have. Either the 94 400 4x4 or 2x4. Right hand side on the schematic page has a box with resistance readings for the 4 pairs of stator wires that you test.

 

ok i got it...but question? where do i test? i unplug the cdi unit and test from there down right??? cause thats the wires that go to stator????it says altenator which is a stator makes power to charge right??