I got the new armature plate installed on my 1999 sp500 and everything torqued and assembled and now I can't get that wheel to engage at all. I searched around the forum and got that the ohm specs for these hubs are somewhere between 25 and 35 ohms depending on who posted it. I have about 26 on the good working side and somewhere around 170 ohms on the non-working side. Is there something that would cause these to just go bad? I know it's an electronic part so I guess it probably could. I took it back apart and checked the clearance between inner and outer sleeves and it's even all the way around. If the coil is bad how do I go about changing it? I see in the manual that i can adjust the outer sleeve by tapping it in but I didn't see anything about taking it apart. Also should the coil be set back behind the inner and outer sleeves (i'd guess atleast .030 or .040)?

 

Also, I think I read somewhere that I will have to replace the outer seal as well? So I would need to order both 15 and 13? Dirt Cheap Yamaha, Honda, Arctic Cat & Polaris OEM Parts & Accessories – Cycle Parts Warehouse

 

Correct on the hub coil resistance of 25-35 ohms resistance. At 170 ohms sounds like you may have a shorted out coil which is not unusual. Always check for any breaks in the thin wiring leading down into the coil also. Clean out the silicone in the channel in the strut where the two wires terminate into the coil itself. May be possible to repair the wiring "IF" this is the problem. Also yes best to replace the hub coil and coil sleeve as a set as you will almost always damage the sleeve taking it off and the coil face itself usually cracks also. Need a small sharp chisel to tap the sleeve off(without damaging,gouging the strut),then remove the coil.Clean up all the excess blue silicone around the strut. The service manual shows you the correct way to measure the new seal sleeve distance(outer pole) against the strut casting where the coil mounts(inner pole). Just use a straight edge and a small block of wood and a hammer on the new seal sleeve to get the correct clearance of flush to no more than .001 clearance between the sleeve face and strut casting.Don't go too far on the hub strut seal sleeve! Make sure you use plenty of rtv around the strut when you install the new sleeve. If you don't have the manual,here's one.It gives good info on coil and seal sleeve installation. http://gh-ftp.com/ORV%20Manuals/Pola...0%20-%20SM.pdf

 

That sounds MUCH cheaper than replacing it so I'll give that a shot tomorrow. If that isn't it, is there any depth setting for the coil or does it just go all the way on and that's where it goes? would it make any difference to shim it out closer to the face of the seals? And does it matter what silicone/rtv I use or is black fine? I have the same manual I think and it doesn't get real involved with the hub coil assembly as far as I can tell and I just want to make sure I have all my questions taken out of the way before I get started on it.

 

Coil fits flush against the strut casting. Don't try to shim anything out! The hub strut seal sleeve is what you set to achieve the correct clearance. Just have the strut clean,lightly coat the new coil with rtv to hold in place,rtv all around the strut where the sleeve fits,then tap it down while using a straight edge all around to get a final .001 or flush clearance with the inner pole casting. Let it sit and cure over night then you can finish up the rest. Doesn't matter on rtv,black or blue,but blue just looks better. No red! The choice of amateurs.. You can spot this a mile off..

 

That was actually easier than I was anticipating. I did destroy the old hub coil taking it off because there was a very small lip around the inner sleeve that wouldn't allow it to come off so I had to basically unwind what seemed like a mile of tiny red wire from around it. But once off I took a fine cartridge roll on my die grinder and wiped it off so the new one would just slide on. The only tedious part was taking off the outer sleeve without nicking the inner one because of the hard angle of attack almost all the way around. I did end up getting it in a couple of spots but the die grinder took care of those spots as well. I prefer the black rtv, but since you've NEVER steered me wrong before I used your preference, the blue. I let it set up over night and put it all back together and now it's a polaris again and not a honda Found both parts at one of my local dealers for $108, another local dealer wanted more than that for just the hub coil!! Thanks again OPT for all the help!!!

 

All it takes is a little patience. By the way don't think I've ever taken a coil sleeve off that I didn't have at least a couple light gouges in the casting along with breaking the plastic face off almost every coil doing so. Sounds like you did okay..