How likely is it that a fan switch will go bad?

I've upgraded the fan and radiator on my 2010 500 SP. on testing today I found that is was blowing the 10 amp circuit breaker.
I've bypassed the circuit breaker and fitted an in-line fuse. It blew at 10 amps, blew at 15 amps and is olding fine at 20 amps.

The fan kicks in no problems at around 190', the problem is it won't switch off.

The orange and black wire remains live at 12 volts well below 100'.

If I kill the bike the fan stops. Then if I leave it a while and start it up again the orange wire is dead and the fan is off until 190' or so.

The switch is obviously opening again at some point but no where near 150' as it should.

Am I correct in thinking the switch is faulty?

Or is the fact the circuit breaker is no longer in the game causing my problems?
Surely the switch doesn't depend on the circuit breaker to kill the fan?

We leave for Croatia next Sunday, tomorrow is a public holiday and so i don't have long to order parts so I'm trying to order the right part first time around!

As always, any help much appreciated.

James

 

Sounds like the radiator sensor shorting out. You can pay the price for the oem or just replace with a generic one and splice in your connector.Don't know what options you have there as to replacements.#13 on oem. Dirt Cheap Yamaha, Honda, Arctic Cat & Polaris OEM Parts & Accessories – Cycle Parts Warehouse
Wells Vehicle Electronics Cooling Fan Switch SW526: Upgrade with the best Engine Cooling Fan Switch -Performance at Advance Auto Parts Plus a weak circuit breaker in the sealed pouch can do the same thing. These should be available at most auto parts houses. Plus don't overlook shorts in the fuse block on this model.