Spilling the Beans on Sportsman 700 and 800 EFI T-Bap wiring
#12
04-04-2011, 12:32 AM
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I have installed a lot of tbap kits on efi twins over the years and have never figured out why Polaris will not provide a fix like this. I noticed that the first year of efi for the 700 in 04 they did have larger wires for the tbap and then in 05 the wires got smaller and the problems started. Five years later I cant believe I am still having to put a kit on a 2010 800. Figure it out Polaris.
And on the same note why did it take so long to come out with braided steel oil lines for the
330s that keep leaking and popping off. Those old lines were junk.
And on the same note why did it take so long to come out with braided steel oil lines for the
330s that keep leaking and popping off. Those old lines were junk.
#13
04-04-2011, 02:47 PM
Polaris ATV Expert
Retired and loving it!
Retired and loving it!
I have installed a lot of tbap kits on efi twins over the years and have never figured out why Polaris will not provide a fix like this. I noticed that the first year of efi for the 700 in 04 they did have larger wires for the tbap and then in 05 the wires got smaller and the problems started. Five years later I cant believe I am still having to put a kit on a 2010 800. Figure it out Polaris.
And on the same note why did it take so long to come out with braided steel oil lines for the
330s that keep leaking and popping off. Those old lines were junk.
And on the same note why did it take so long to come out with braided steel oil lines for the
330s that keep leaking and popping off. Those old lines were junk.
The following users liked this post:
eddie j (11-28-2021)
#14
04-29-2011, 11:01 PM
#15
04-30-2011, 09:31 AM
Polaris ATV Expert
Retired and loving it!
Retired and loving it!
2003 700 had a carb not efi. BUT they had a Ducati ignition problem which resulted in complete system change in late 2004. You may or may not have a problem and replacement electrical kits were around 400 dollars. Questions need to be asked in forum area. OPT
#16
09-13-2011, 07:38 PM
I just wanted everyone to know that I've had the same problem with the 09 800 x2 I just bought last week. Saw the Check Engine light just as soon as I got it home. I missed it during the test ride, apparently. Story of my life. Anyway, it's probably the reason the guy sold it to me for a SONG. He was NOT mechanically inclined. LOL
Found out about the codes 45 and 41 problems by searching another Polaris forum and ordered the OTB replacement cable over the weekend.
As luck would have it, I pulled the wires out of the connector last night while tinkering with it and really wasn't pulling so much on the wires (At least I didn't think so!) that much and they pulled right out. Pissed me off so I got some #22 female connectors out of my box and crimped them on. Opened the end a little and put each one on their respective spade in the BAP. I had taken the negative cable off the batt before I started. Reconnected the batt cable and POOF!, no more codes. Rode it an hour today and NOTHING and it use to throw the codes in less than 5 minutes.
It just proves the connector was indeed my problem. I know what I've done isn't a long-term fix but my OTB cable should be here tomorrow anyway. I just wanted to prove to myself that I hadn't thrown away $40 for nothing since I had pulled the wires out anyway. Well I proved it.
Can't wait to get my OTB connector/cable tomorrow and put that problem to rest. On to the next one. LOL
Hope this helps someone.
-bob
Found out about the codes 45 and 41 problems by searching another Polaris forum and ordered the OTB replacement cable over the weekend.
As luck would have it, I pulled the wires out of the connector last night while tinkering with it and really wasn't pulling so much on the wires (At least I didn't think so!) that much and they pulled right out. Pissed me off so I got some #22 female connectors out of my box and crimped them on. Opened the end a little and put each one on their respective spade in the BAP. I had taken the negative cable off the batt before I started. Reconnected the batt cable and POOF!, no more codes. Rode it an hour today and NOTHING and it use to throw the codes in less than 5 minutes.
It just proves the connector was indeed my problem. I know what I've done isn't a long-term fix but my OTB cable should be here tomorrow anyway. I just wanted to prove to myself that I hadn't thrown away $40 for nothing since I had pulled the wires out anyway. Well I proved it.
Can't wait to get my OTB connector/cable tomorrow and put that problem to rest. On to the next one. LOL
Hope this helps someone.
-bob
#18
05-04-2012, 02:39 PM
Here is the lowdown on Polaris Sportsman 700-800 T-Bap wiring:
Symptoms of broken Temp/Baro sensor wires:
1. The ATV will run very erratic at idle.
2. The "CHECK ENGINE" will sometimes come on.
3. Diagnostic codes 41 and or 45 will be present.
4. Fuel mileage will be poor.
5. Exhaust will smell really rich. Sometimes even black smoke can be seen from it running so rich.
How to test if the Temp/Baro sensor wiring is broken:
1. Turn the key switch on and off 3 times leaving it on the 3rd time. This puts the ECU into diagnostic mode. If codes are present their numbers will be displayed on the instrument cluster. When all codes have been displayed "End" will appear on the cluster.
2. Remove the seat and locate the sensor on the air intake tube. Unplug the wiring to the sensor by pressing down on the tab on the top of the connector. DON'T PULL THE CONNECTOR BY IT'S WIRES!!! Pull back the vinyl tubing that covers the 4 wires going to the connector. Gently pull on each wire with your fingers. The wire should have no stretch and feel solid. All the wires should feel the same. If one or two of them feel weak and stretchy chances are you have a broken wire. Is what happens is the wire breaks inside the insulation so it appears to still be connected.
Why do the Temp/Baro sensor wires break in the first place?
1.The problem with the current Polaris wiring is too short and Polaris used 7/32 stranded 22AWG wire. This wire has a very low strand count and should not be used in applications where vibration occurs.
2.The next problem is the mounting location of the sensor it is in a vibration prone spot on top the air intake tube going from the air box to the throttle body. Next time you're bored take the seat off and rev it up in neutral. That intake boot and sensor vibrate to the point where it looks blurry. The combination of these engineering flaws causes the cable to break in a big hurry.
The Polaris repair kits keep breaking. Why?
1. The replacement kits from Polaris use the same 7/32 strand wire that can't withstand vibration.
How do I fix this damn problem once and for all:
1. After multiple replacement kits failing and multiple hack jobs to the replacement kits so I could go riding for the weekend I finally came up with a solution. I bought a pile of connectors and sockets and built my own repair harnesses using 65/36 18AWG wire with a thick silicone jacket. This wire is the same type of flexible wire used on things like multimeter leads. It is some really good stuff. Then I used sealed butt splices to connect my new harness to the factory harness. to anyone on here who needs one. PM me.
I am an electrical engineer who has access to these very hard to get connectors&sockets and would like to offer my significantly better solution than Polaris has at a less price. I'm certainly not planning on retiring on connector profits but would be happy to help other Sportsman EFI owners with this really annoying problem and have a little extra cash for my weekend wheeling trips would be nice.
Symptoms of broken Temp/Baro sensor wires:
1. The ATV will run very erratic at idle.
2. The "CHECK ENGINE" will sometimes come on.
3. Diagnostic codes 41 and or 45 will be present.
4. Fuel mileage will be poor.
5. Exhaust will smell really rich. Sometimes even black smoke can be seen from it running so rich.
How to test if the Temp/Baro sensor wiring is broken:
1. Turn the key switch on and off 3 times leaving it on the 3rd time. This puts the ECU into diagnostic mode. If codes are present their numbers will be displayed on the instrument cluster. When all codes have been displayed "End" will appear on the cluster.
2. Remove the seat and locate the sensor on the air intake tube. Unplug the wiring to the sensor by pressing down on the tab on the top of the connector. DON'T PULL THE CONNECTOR BY IT'S WIRES!!! Pull back the vinyl tubing that covers the 4 wires going to the connector. Gently pull on each wire with your fingers. The wire should have no stretch and feel solid. All the wires should feel the same. If one or two of them feel weak and stretchy chances are you have a broken wire. Is what happens is the wire breaks inside the insulation so it appears to still be connected.
Why do the Temp/Baro sensor wires break in the first place?
1.The problem with the current Polaris wiring is too short and Polaris used 7/32 stranded 22AWG wire. This wire has a very low strand count and should not be used in applications where vibration occurs.
2.The next problem is the mounting location of the sensor it is in a vibration prone spot on top the air intake tube going from the air box to the throttle body. Next time you're bored take the seat off and rev it up in neutral. That intake boot and sensor vibrate to the point where it looks blurry. The combination of these engineering flaws causes the cable to break in a big hurry.
The Polaris repair kits keep breaking. Why?
1. The replacement kits from Polaris use the same 7/32 strand wire that can't withstand vibration.
How do I fix this damn problem once and for all:
1. After multiple replacement kits failing and multiple hack jobs to the replacement kits so I could go riding for the weekend I finally came up with a solution. I bought a pile of connectors and sockets and built my own repair harnesses using 65/36 18AWG wire with a thick silicone jacket. This wire is the same type of flexible wire used on things like multimeter leads. It is some really good stuff. Then I used sealed butt splices to connect my new harness to the factory harness. to anyone on here who needs one. PM me.
I am an electrical engineer who has access to these very hard to get connectors&sockets and would like to offer my significantly better solution than Polaris has at a less price. I'm certainly not planning on retiring on connector profits but would be happy to help other Sportsman EFI owners with this really annoying problem and have a little extra cash for my weekend wheeling trips would be nice.
GREG
Dispatchy@sbcglobal.net
#19
07-15-2012, 05:09 PM
Here is the lowdown on Polaris Sportsman 700-800 T-Bap wiring:
Symptoms of broken Temp/Baro sensor wires:
1. The ATV will run very erratic at idle.
2. The "CHECK ENGINE" will sometimes come on.
3. Diagnostic codes 41 and or 45 will be present.
4. Fuel mileage will be poor.
5. Exhaust will smell really rich. Sometimes even black smoke can be seen from it running so rich.
How to test if the Temp/Baro sensor wiring is broken:
1. Turn the key switch on and off 3 times leaving it on the 3rd time. This puts the ECU into diagnostic mode. If codes are present their numbers will be displayed on the instrument cluster. When all codes have been displayed "End" will appear on the cluster.
2. Remove the seat and locate the sensor on the air intake tube. Unplug the wiring to the sensor by pressing down on the tab on the top of the connector. DON'T PULL THE CONNECTOR BY IT'S WIRES!!! Pull back the vinyl tubing that covers the 4 wires going to the connector. Gently pull on each wire with your fingers. The wire should have no stretch and feel solid. All the wires should feel the same. If one or two of them feel weak and stretchy chances are you have a broken wire. Is what happens is the wire breaks inside the insulation so it appears to still be connected.
Why do the Temp/Baro sensor wires break in the first place?
1.The problem with the current Polaris wiring is too short and Polaris used 7/32 stranded 22AWG wire. This wire has a very low strand count and should not be used in applications where vibration occurs.
2.The next problem is the mounting location of the sensor it is in a vibration prone spot on top the air intake tube going from the air box to the throttle body. Next time you're bored take the seat off and rev it up in neutral. That intake boot and sensor vibrate to the point where it looks blurry. The combination of these engineering flaws causes the cable to break in a big hurry.
The Polaris repair kits keep breaking. Why?
1. The replacement kits from Polaris use the same 7/32 strand wire that can't withstand vibration.
How do I fix this damn problem once and for all:
1. After multiple replacement kits failing and multiple hack jobs to the replacement kits so I could go riding for the weekend I finally came up with a solution. I bought a pile of connectors and sockets and built my own repair harnesses using 65/36 18AWG wire with a thick silicone jacket. This wire is the same type of flexible wire used on things like multimeter leads. It is some really good stuff. Then I used sealed butt splices to connect my new harness to the factory harness. to anyone on here who needs one. PM me.
I am an electrical engineer who has access to these very hard to get connectors&sockets and would like to offer my significantly better solution than Polaris has at a less price. I'm certainly not planning on retiring on connector profits but would be happy to help other Sportsman EFI owners with this really annoying problem and have a little extra cash for my weekend wheeling trips would be nice.
Symptoms of broken Temp/Baro sensor wires:
1. The ATV will run very erratic at idle.
2. The "CHECK ENGINE" will sometimes come on.
3. Diagnostic codes 41 and or 45 will be present.
4. Fuel mileage will be poor.
5. Exhaust will smell really rich. Sometimes even black smoke can be seen from it running so rich.
How to test if the Temp/Baro sensor wiring is broken:
1. Turn the key switch on and off 3 times leaving it on the 3rd time. This puts the ECU into diagnostic mode. If codes are present their numbers will be displayed on the instrument cluster. When all codes have been displayed "End" will appear on the cluster.
2. Remove the seat and locate the sensor on the air intake tube. Unplug the wiring to the sensor by pressing down on the tab on the top of the connector. DON'T PULL THE CONNECTOR BY IT'S WIRES!!! Pull back the vinyl tubing that covers the 4 wires going to the connector. Gently pull on each wire with your fingers. The wire should have no stretch and feel solid. All the wires should feel the same. If one or two of them feel weak and stretchy chances are you have a broken wire. Is what happens is the wire breaks inside the insulation so it appears to still be connected.
Why do the Temp/Baro sensor wires break in the first place?
1.The problem with the current Polaris wiring is too short and Polaris used 7/32 stranded 22AWG wire. This wire has a very low strand count and should not be used in applications where vibration occurs.
2.The next problem is the mounting location of the sensor it is in a vibration prone spot on top the air intake tube going from the air box to the throttle body. Next time you're bored take the seat off and rev it up in neutral. That intake boot and sensor vibrate to the point where it looks blurry. The combination of these engineering flaws causes the cable to break in a big hurry.
The Polaris repair kits keep breaking. Why?
1. The replacement kits from Polaris use the same 7/32 strand wire that can't withstand vibration.
How do I fix this damn problem once and for all:
1. After multiple replacement kits failing and multiple hack jobs to the replacement kits so I could go riding for the weekend I finally came up with a solution. I bought a pile of connectors and sockets and built my own repair harnesses using 65/36 18AWG wire with a thick silicone jacket. This wire is the same type of flexible wire used on things like multimeter leads. It is some really good stuff. Then I used sealed butt splices to connect my new harness to the factory harness. to anyone on here who needs one. PM me.
I am an electrical engineer who has access to these very hard to get connectors&sockets and would like to offer my significantly better solution than Polaris has at a less price. I'm certainly not planning on retiring on connector profits but would be happy to help other Sportsman EFI owners with this really annoying problem and have a little extra cash for my weekend wheeling trips would be nice.
#20
10-09-2012, 08:12 AM
Polaris 800 X2 Issues (2007)
HELP ! I am all new to the four wheeling comunity. I just picked up a 2007 800X2 with a snow blade. Since I am a newby at this, I am wondering what I should be looking for of listening for to maintain this monster. I read about a transmition drain plug and drive chain rubbing issue and plan on looking into that. I notice that when I am running say 20 MPH and I open the throttle up fully it sounds like a can of bolts from the drive train. This always causes me to back off and the noise is gone, but the speed is maintained just fine. Again, I only hear this when I am gassing hard on a straight away.
Tonight I plan on hitting all the grease fittings. The oil and the air filter looks fine. I guess I will also look for a transmition check or dip stick too.
Tonight I plan on hitting all the grease fittings. The oil and the air filter looks fine. I guess I will also look for a transmition check or dip stick too.