sorry guys, got a little busy with work and didn't get a chance to get back to working on the quad. So since I couldn't get it to start, even with adding fuel in the spark plug hole, I tried testing the spark plug by having it plugged up to the wire and putting the plug threads/base against a clean metal screw on the frame. NO SPARK! So I think part of the issue has been an intermittent issue with spark. I even tried picking up a new plug today, with no luck getting a spark.

Guess I need to figure out what to check next. I hate to start throwing parts at it, like just buying a coil and trying that.

I'm new to the site here, and wondered if there was "how to" on tracking down a no spark issue on these little quads.

FYI: I did a compression check this evening, as I finally found my compression gauge. 50PSI. Kind of shocked it pulled my 220lb gut up that long steep driveway with only 50PSI. I guess I'll be checking the reeds as well, but none of that will matter until we get spark. Any help/guidance is greatly appreciated.

 

I was pricing out a coil to see how much they are. What's the Rectifier for?

Alpha Sports - E-Ton America Parts Catalog

#17 650457 Rectifier

 

Changes the voltage from ac to dc.

 

Posted by: markvette

Tests to try if you have no spark or if your charging system is bad.

Preliminary test >>> This will not work on the Polaris and may not work on the Viper. If You Have either Proceed to the Stator test listed below.

1. Locate the CDI and unplug the connector for the black wire with the white stripe (or white wire with black stripe).
Test for spark. If no spark, leave it unpluged and proceed with test.

2. On the CDI, unplug the red wire with white stripe (could also be white wire with red stripe) AND the Black wire with white stripe (could be white wire with black stripe).

3. Locate the wires that come from the stator on the engine (right front top of engine. This harness is about 10" long can covered with a black tubing).
Connect the CDI red wire with white stripe (could also be white wire with red stripe) directly to the matching stator wire. Connect the CDI Black wire with white stripe (could be white wire with black stripe) directly to the stator wire.

Test for spark.

If no spark, you have a problem with the CDI, Stator or COIL. You have eliminated the AVT wire harness as the cause.


The stator tests as follows:

1. YOU MUST USE A DIGITAL OHM METER!!!
2. On the stator the ohm reading between the red wire with white stripe (could also be white wire with red stripe) AND the Black wire with white stripe (could be white wire with black stripe) should be about 1284 ohms for the ETON style (3 bolt fan) stators and 689 ohms for the Kasea, LRX and DRR (4 bolt fan) stators.
3. The red wire with white stripe (could also be white wire with red stripe) to ground should be about 447 ohms for the ETON style (3 bolt fan) stators and 112.7 ohms for the Kasea, LRX and DRR (4 bolt fan) stators.
4. The Black wire with white stripe (could be white wire with black stripe) to ground should be about 837 ohms for the ETON style (3 bolt fan) stators and 576 ohms for the Kasea, LRX and DRR (4 bolt fan) stators.
5. From the plastic connector with the three wires, confirm that the black lead has 0 resistance between the lead and the frame of the atv. That is the ground lead. Any noted resistance in the ground system means the ground is BAD. We recommend always adding a wire between the engine and the frame for a better ground.

NOTE That the total ohms for #3 and #4 are the same as the ohms in #2. That is because we but the resistance of the two coils in series and added the ohms.

IF YOU DO NOT GET THESE READINGS your stator is BAD.

COILS:

1. There are two resistances in coils. Eton vs. Kasea.
2. The Eton should measure about 9.24k ohms checking between the high voltage lead (no boot) and the coil ground.
3. The Eton coil should also read about .5 ohms between the coil input and coil ground. Kasea reads about .3 ohms. Don't switch them because you can burn out your CDI and stator.

Your typical plug cap is a resistor cap and it should read about 5k ohms. A great replacement cap is the NGK TB05EMA.

If your stator, coil and engine kill wiring tests OK, you simply need a new CDI. I will not list out CDI test procedures since you have concluded your CDI is bad and because if you test the CDI improperly, you will damage the unit.

Found this thread on the net, and will be trying this out tomorrow. I'll post my results.

If you want to check the charging feature of the stator:

(We assume that you have confirmed that the in-line fuse near the battery is good and that your battery is in good shape.)
1. Locate the 3 wire plastic plug from the stator. One wire is the black ground and the other two are the charging system.
2. The Orange wire with red stripe to ground should read about .4 ~ .5 ohms on the Eton and the same on the Kasea style.
3. The White wire to ground should read about .5 ohms on the Eton and .3 ~.5 on the Kasea style.

NOTE: You cannot interchange the Eton for the Kasea stator without the matching flywheel and there are two crank tapers that you will find. The Kasea style has a substantially higher voltage output for lighting.