Suzuki Lt 80 Quadsport "NO" low end power, I have replaced with NEW, air filter, fuel shut off valve, piston/rings/clips/bearing/head & exhaust gaskets. Disassembled/cleaned/inspected carb. Removed/inspected Reed cage. New NGK plug. Removed/cleaned/lubed secondary clutch. Belt is like new. I could not get the primary clutch off but it looks new and shinny and doesn't appear to be hanging up. The only thing I have not done is mess with the Magneto. I have a couple questions I would appreciate any help with...... First; any idea's???? Second; How can I set the timing on this. Third; Will the Lbs of cylinder pressure go up as the rings set because right now I only have 110ft lbs Fourth; Can I replace the Reed cage "phillips screws" with hex bolts and is there a torque spec here? Thanks, email me at testdriverbob@aol.com

 

Welcome to the forums Bob.
1) You set the timing by pulling the flywheel off. I don't think that you need to adjust the timing but I have seen mud/yuck get on the stator and cause problems with spark. You may want to pull the flywheel and sand/clean the stator/flywheel.
2) Comp will go up as the rings seat but it should run fine at 110.
3) Yes, hex head bolts on the reed cage is what I put in. No spec, just tight.

I think that you need to get the front clutch off to make sure all is well in there.
Pipe plugged? I'd prolly start there.

 

Thanks for the welcome and quick reply. I forgot to post that I had blown a compressor thru the exhaust, the air went thru - could it still be partially plugged and can partially plugged cause no low end? - if so what after market pipe do you recommend? I have not put the reed cage back on yet, which way is up on it? Is there a test I can do on the reeds other than visual as the reeds look fine. The front clutch would slide up to the end of the shaft then stop and I could not see anything holding it on and I didn't want to damage it trying to pull it off - any idea how to get it off? Back to the magneto question "if it needs adjusting - what are the symptoms - is no low end while running smooth possible? When I cleaned the carb there was a hole in the bottom bowl that I think the throttle needle valve (it is clipped at the factory notch) goes in and I could only clean around the hole and could not actually get in there with anything, could that be my no low end problem? Where are you located? Can I get your direct email or phone number? I am in Detroit, mine is testdriverbob@aol.com - 734-329-1871. Keep in mind this 4wheeler starts right up and idles smoothly and will go 40+ down the road.....but with the wheels off the ground after giving it aprox half throttle as the motor starts to slow down it starts to rock pretty bad then smooths back out???? Could that be a bad clutch - no odd noises are ever heard, HELP!!!!!!

 

Someone in a earlier post asked which way is up for the reed cage - so since I hadn't put it back on I figured I might be saving time asking the same (needless) question. Well it is obvious the reed cage can only go on one way, but I still have a question about that "do you use any silicone sealant anywhere around the cage/carb or insulator carb as both O rings are flush inside the reed cage and the insulator carb, "could that be part of my problem"? I ask ur info just in case ur near Detroit I would be willing to bring it to u or instead of doing the bulletin board thing we could talk directly in real time. Thanks again for helping members!

 

OOOps..I do remember that reed cage question and I don't recall answering it..
As you figured out, Reeds up..
No silicone. There is a o-ring that goes on the insulator. Your correct, this could cause this problem.
My emain and # is on this reply.
I'm near Detroit...4 hours close anyways. Back in the race days, 4 hours was a local race.

 

Found the issue with my 80, the 25 cent keyway that fits in the engine shaft groove and holds the front gear and clutch onto the engine shaft failed which caused the front clutch to intermittently slip on the motor shaft. The slipping caused damage to the inner piece of the clutch which I will be ordering today. LT80, this was my first experience with posting on bulletin boards and it was a good experience - Thanks again for being a good guy!

 

I sorta figured it was in the front.
Glad you found it.

Remove the starter gear and turn the key around.
When installing the variator, grab it like your grabbing a doughnut by the hole. This way you can hold the roller plate down so that it does not come off the rollers. Slide the variator down the crankshaft applying side pressure on the plate.
If the plate comes off the rollers, you have to take it apart to make sure the rollers didn't fall and turn.
Once the variator is on and you've triple checked that the key is in the keyway, slide the bushing in and tap it into place (sometimes it slides into place), install big washer then belt, then the outer face.
The washer is a spring washer. Make sure the cup side is down put nut on and tighten with a impact gun.