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Chinese Quad SLA 200 KS

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Old 01-13-2011, 05:09 PM
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Default Chinese Quad SLA 200 KS

I got given a quad bike from a family friend. The idiot had used a 12V truck battery on it and wrapped the fuses with tin foil! I have no idea what the quad bike is but it looks identical to one i saw on here and the only markings on it is the engine number of 167 ML.

So some of the out seething of the wire has melted so i replaced these wires and finally got it to turn over after replacing the solenoid and the CDI. Unfortunately it now turns over with the button on the handle bars but no spark from spark plug.

Any1 have any ideas where i can purchase a wiring diagram for this quad or any1 had this problem before? Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Cheers

Nick

nicandkyla@hotmail.co.uk
 
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Old 01-13-2011, 05:14 PM
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could it maybe the ignition coil or the magneto any1 have any ideas? Im desperate
 
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Old 01-13-2011, 11:42 PM
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I don't have an exact wiring diagram for your quad. But this isn't a big deal. We can figure this out without a diagram. Even if we had a wiring diagram it would probably be riddled with errors anyway.

You can do a lot of tests with a meter to narrow the cause of no spark. Check out this link below, and look about four posts down to see a list of tests to do:

http://forums.atvconnection.com/chin...your-help.html

Is your CDI the same as the one pictured in the first post?

What are the results of the eight test measurements?
 
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Old 01-14-2011, 08:02 PM
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Hi,

Thanks for your response that helped greatly! first of all i rewired my CDI according to the picture as it is the same as in the pic but the ignition trigger pulse was connected to the kill switch connection and the AC ignition power which is a black wire was not connected to anything. So after re wiring it still no spark.

So i have 2 wires a green with white strip, and a blue with white strip, and three yellow wires that come out of the magneto. The 3 yellow wires go to the regulator at the rear which isnt connected as it was smoking. I presume that the other two wires are the ignition trigger pulse and the ac ignition power is that correct? any idea what colour wire goes to which one? also should the magneto be earthed or would this be done internally? maybe one of the yellow wires is earthed?

All the other wires were correct according to your tests apart from the voltages out to the coil. How hard is it to get to the magneto as i tried before and it has a allen key on the top that looks like theres oil inside?

hope you can help

Nick
 
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Old 01-15-2011, 12:30 AM
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My responses embedded in red:

Originally Posted by weiry84
Hi,

Thanks for your response that helped greatly! first of all i rewired my CDI according to the picture as it is the same as in the pic but the ignition trigger pulse was connected to the kill switch connection and the AC ignition power which is a black wire was not connected to anything. So after re wiring it still no spark. [I'm always a little afraid when connectors are thought to be miswired. Sometimes they are miswired and somtimes not. What made you think the original wiring was wrong? I sure hope you remember how to put it back if it is deemed necessary ].

So i have 2 wires a green with white strip, and a blue with white strip, and three yellow wires that come out of the magneto. [The Blue/White is the classic color for the ignition trigger pulse. I suspect that green white is ground. I don't know for sure, but you could verify this with a meter. Is the green/white wire shorted to ground? Or instead does it wire up to the ground pin on the CDI connector?] The 3 yellow wires go to the regulator at the rear which isnt connected as it was smoking. [Your battery charge windings in the stator are the three yellow wires. You have a 3 phase charging system. Each of those wires are connected to each other with a resistance of an ohm or so, but none of them should connect to ground inside the stator. These wires have nothing to do with spark. Get spark working first, then revisit the smoking regulator problem...] I presume that the other two wires are the ignition trigger pulse and the ac ignition power is that correct? any idea what colour wire goes to which one? [But you said the AC igntion power wire at the CDI was black (and disconnected). If the wire at the CDI is black, then the wire at the stator would be black also. I'm assuming wires don't change color in the middle of a wiring harness. ] also should the magneto be earthed or would this be done internally? maybe one of the yellow wires is earthed?

All the other wires were correct according to your tests apart from the voltages out to the coil. [What were the exact readings you got for the eight tests? There is a lot of information in the results that you list. Some of the tests verify each other. If they correlate then I get a good feeling that data is valid. If they don't I know we need to dig a little deeper. ] How hard is it to get to the magneto as i tried before and it has a allen key on the top that looks like theres oil inside? [The stator is measured with a meter on the engine to see if it is working. If you take the stator apart you can no longer measure to see if it is working. I would not be taking the stator apart at this time.]

hope you can help

Nick
You stated that you AC ignition power wire was black. How did you determine that? Black is a common color for ignition switched 12 volts DC. I'm wondering if your quad wiring is for a DC powered CDI. Once againg the exact meter results from the eight tests will give a great deal of information on this point.
 
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Old 01-15-2011, 06:56 PM
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Hi, sorry for the confusion in the last message ive done what you have said re-wired how it was. First of all here is the test results:

1. Zero on ground (pure green wire)
Infinite on ground ( green with white stripe)

2. Yes goes to zero ohms

3. Infinite resistance. This is a black wire and goes to a load of other black wires that go to the handle bars and two headlight bulbs and the thermostat.

4. Infinite resistance.

5. 0.8 ohms from the plug or 0.3 from the coil direct no wiring.

6. Nothing

7. Nothing

8. Nothing.

Right ive followed the wiring and drawn my own diagram which i cannot add to this for some reason. Anyways ill try and explain below:

Ignition trigger pulse is a blue / white wire which goes to the magneto but also to the kill switch.

To ignition coil is a black/white stripe wire which goes to the Coil.

Grounds is a solid green which goes to ground and a green/ white stripe which goes to the magneto but no resistance to ground

Kill switch is a blue/ white stripe which goes to ground when kill switch activated.

ac ignition power is a black solid wire which goes to a bunch of wires connected to lights and thermostat and handle bars.

What im thinking is that the CDI maybe DC operated and the ac ignition power is actually connected to 12v would this be true? as it goes to the lights on the bike? Also the ignition trigger pulse shouldn't be connected to the kill switch blue/ white stripe wire but just got straight to the magneto blue/ white stripe wire? hope that this is better explained?

So the solid black wire that goes to the AC ignition power on the CDI thats how i know its a black wire. Im thinking this could be a 12v DC line for the CDI what are your thoughts?

Many thanks

Nick
 
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Old 01-15-2011, 09:05 PM
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Originally Posted by weiry84
Hi, sorry for the confusion in the last message ive done what you have said re-wired how it was. First of all here is the test results:

1. Zero on ground (pure green wire)
Infinite on ground ( green with white stripe) [Hmmm...]

2. Yes goes to zero ohms [I take that to mean it reads open with the ignition switch on, and zero ohms with the switch off, right? If so that's good]

3. Infinite resistance. This is a black wire and goes to a load of other black wires that go to the handle bars and two headlight bulbs and the thermostat. [This hints at the CDI being DC powered. Here's how to tell: Turn the ignition switch on with the CDI removed. Measure the DC voltage on the black wire (labeled AC Ignition Power) in the CDI connector to ground. If it measures 12 volts then you need a DC powered CDI.]

4. Infinite resistance. [This is a problem. Try this: Measure the resistance between this pin (Trigger Pulse) and the Green/White wire on the same connector. Do you get 150 ohms or so?

5. 0.8 ohms from the plug or 0.3 from the coil direct no wiring.

6. Nothing [You won't measure any AC voltage here if you need a DC powered CDI]

7. Nothing [Repeat, but measure the voltage between the Blue/White (trigger) wire and the Green/White wire. Do you measure any voltage (0.2 to 0.4 volts AC) while cranking the starter now? Make sure all kill switches are in the run position first before doing this test.]

8. Nothing. [With no trigger voltage you won't get spark, so this is what I would expect.]

Right ive followed the wiring and drawn my own diagram which i cannot add to this for some reason. Anyways ill try and explain below:

Ignition trigger pulse is a blue / white wire which goes to the magneto but also to the kill switch. [This is a legitimate way to kill spark. It is not the most common, but some quads are wired this way. If you short the trigger signal to ground the CDI will not fire the plug, and the engine stops.]

To ignition coil is a black/white stripe wire which goes to the Coil.

Grounds is a solid green which goes to ground and a green/ white stripe which goes to the magneto but no resistance to ground [I suspect the Green/White does get shorted to ground inside the CDI through the green wire when you plug the CDI in]

Kill switch is a blue/ white stripe which goes to ground when kill switch activated.

ac ignition power is a black solid wire which goes to a bunch of wires connected to lights and thermostat and handle bars.

What im thinking is that the CDI maybe DC operated and the ac ignition power is actually connected to 12v would this be true? [Sounds like it to me] as it goes to the lights on the bike? Also the ignition trigger pulse shouldn't be connected to the kill switch blue/ white stripe wire but just got straight to the magneto blue/ white stripe wire? hope that this is better explained? [I think you're right on top of this. I think you kill switch (on the handlebar) is wired to short the trigger signal to ground when switched to the 'kill' position. The ignition switch (one half of which is another kill switch) removes power to the CDI to accomplish the same thing.]
So the solid black wire that goes to the AC ignition power on the CDI thats how i know its a black wire. Im thinking this could be a 12v DC line for the CDI what are your thoughts? [I'm thinking that too...]

Many thanks

Nick
So if you can get a trigger voltage between the blue/white wire and the green/white wire while cranking (with the kill switch in the 'run' position), and you can get 12 volts DC to the CDI with the ignition switch on, then it looks like you only need to get a DC powered CDI and plug it in. Of course we can't test the ignition coil and spark plug since until we can get a CDI to drive it. But I bet it will work...

 
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Old 01-16-2011, 02:04 AM
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so im thinking the CDI unit ive got was working with the bike before hand so im thinking about applying 12v to the black wire and see if i can get it to spark. This could damage the cdi or magneto though i would of thought! Im thinking bout giving it a go! i get nothing from the magneto when i measure resistance between the green/white strip and blue/ white stripe wire comming out. maybe the magneto is shorted out too! I think you are correct in saying the kill switch and blue/ white stripe wires are connected so wen it is switched it will kill power to the spark plug!
 
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Old 01-16-2011, 09:05 PM
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Besides the power issue, you aren't going to get spark unless you have a trigger signal. You aren't measuring continuity from the blue/white wire at the CDI connector to ground (or to the green/white wire). This is a problem that must be fixed. You need to measure 150 ohms or so.

You said you "got nothing" when measuring the blue/white wire. I assume that means open circuit (infinite ohms)? There's no such such as measuring "nothing". If you measured an open circuit that is something. If you measured a short that is something too. And they are quite different results.

I would double check the measurements (to avoid going down the proverbial garden paths), then start following the trigger coil wire (blue/white) to the stator. Is there a connection (zero ohms on the ohmmeter) from the CDI connector to the blue/white wire at the stator? If you have connection that far them look inside the engine cover over the stator. The trigger coil is outside the flywheel. Are there one or two wires coming off the trigger coil? If you probe directly through the insulation into the copper wire at the coil do you measure 150 ohms (or so) resistance to ground (or the other wire if there are two)?

Here's a possible scenario:

The trigger coil fails (no spark and no start). The previous owner replaces the DC powered CDI with an AC version (not knowing any better). It blows the fuse. He replaces the fuse with tin foil and melts some wires and blows up the new CDI. Then in desperation wires get cut, etcetera. You get the quad with a blown up CDI, cut wires, who knows what else, and the original problem still present.

Of course there are many possible scenarios besides the one above. One of the problems with working on quads with questionable pedigree is that there may be multiple problems present . A quad with two problems isn't just twice as hard to figure out. It's like ten times harder. And if there are three problems...

You need to hang in there and solve one problem at a time. And make sure that the tests you do are done accurately and are repeatable. Nothing makes a problem harder than making descisions based on bad measurements.

Follow the trigger wire, and follow the green/white and see what it hooks up to inside the engine.
 
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Old 01-16-2011, 09:56 PM
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ok sweet im with you so ill try and get 150 ohms from the blue/white stripe wire and the green/white stripe wire. These wires and the three yellow wires go into the stator so ill have to remove the 7 bolts and remove the cover i guess. there is an Allen key at the top looks like you put oil in it but the oil reservoir is on the other side? would this be clutch or maybe nothing? any ideas?
 


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