LT80 rear clutch removal. - Page 2 - ATVConnection.com ATV Enthusiast Community

rider326 · #11 (**permalink**) 09-09-2009, 12:22 PM

Sorry to butt in Moe, but was wonder if Jack could PM me the direction for the clutch mods (pic's too). I'm also interested in a head already milled to 0.030. Please keep me in the loop.

moetrout · #12 (**permalink**) 09-09-2009, 10:30 PM

I did the compression test and came up with just over 115 and 110 the second time I did it. The compression tester I have is really old and really hard to get in there. When I have more time I can try to get a more accurate reading.

Bowls · #13 (**permalink**) 09-15-2009, 10:41 PM

Would it be possible to post a picture or a link to a picture of the rear clutch shoe that has been cut and drilled? Thanks

moetrout · #14 (**permalink**) 09-16-2009, 09:44 AM

I have not cut my shoes yet. I saw a post here where a guy said he had pics in his profile, but I searched and could not find them. The link below shows shoes that have been drilled but not cut. I think they are using the higher tension "red springs" that I have read about. I think this will at least give you an idea of what's going on. Also I would like to mention that this picture is NOT representative of what Mr. Lt80 has told us to do on these forums. His directions were clear to cut the end of the shoe off 3/8" from the end of the pad and then drill the shoe until it weighs exactly 180 grams. All 3 shoes must be exactly the same. I hope to be doing this in the next couple of weeks. When I do I will post back with pics.

[hetrick racing, inc.]

Bowls · #15 (**permalink**) 09-16-2009, 03:44 PM

Thanks for the picture. I'd really like to see a pic of what LT80 has done to his clutch shoes. By drilling a bunch of holes along the whole shoe would have a different effect than just off of the end. It would be further away from the pivot point in my mind so by drilling the way in the link I would think that they would be taking more off to get the same effect as just off of the end furthest from the pivot point. I guess what I don't understand is it 3/8" off of the end that overlaps on the next shoe or the smaller notched bracing on the underside of the overlapping point on the shoe?

moetrout · #16 (**permalink**) 09-16-2009, 07:41 PM

Not 3/8" from the end of the SHOE, it is 3/8" from the end of the PAD.

Quote directly from what LT80 wrotein the first page of this post:

"Don't drill first,,cut the end off. 3/8" from the pad then drill to 180 grams."

LT80 · #17 (**permalink**) 09-17-2009, 07:53 AM

ACK..Those clutchs are for the kasea/eton/etc. Don't go by that pic. Drill like that and you'll ruin the LT shoes for future modification (when you get a motor).
I'm getting pics for you guys to go by.

moetrout · #18 (**permalink**) 09-17-2009, 09:28 AM

Thanks Jack! I think I know what to do, but having a picture sure would be nice. I hope to cut and drill the shoes this weekend.

rider326 · #19 (**permalink**) 09-17-2009, 11:03 AM

Jack,

Can you send me the pics as well. I'm doing the same mods as Moe. I heard about some air box mods. Do they work and what does it require? I also seen some rebuildable front shocks from Apex ($120set) that is 10.25 eye hole to eye hole. Is this shock to long. Thanks Jack...

LT80 · #20 (**permalink**) 09-17-2009, 01:36 PM

I'm not going to comment on the shocks seeins I've not tested them or know someone who has. I did see where someone had them on but w/o a pic.....
Air box: no reason to make it so more air flows, you've not done anything to require more flow. besides, my motors can turn 12k w/no air box mods. Plenty of air.

I'll post the pics when I get them.