older kasea 125 will not start
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older kasea 125 will not start
on a automatic is there any way of getting it in gear? there are no controls drive neutral reverse that I see. on the left side I have a kickstart that needs fixed and on the other side I have a foot brake. Basically it is stuck in neutral and the starter I think is shot. I hooked it up to my charger and it spun slowly.
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older kasea 125 will not start
You can remove side covers on the engine and then use a wrench on the crankshaft to see if the engine turns.
On the starter issue, DC motors don't hum. Humming must be due to the charger voltage collapsing at 60 or 120 hertz (the power mains frequency). Unless you are using a huge charger with huge charging current (which you shouldn't on such a small battery) it will not put out enough current to turn a starter.
Am I right in assuming the battery is flat dead and won't take a charge?
Try jumping the quad to your car with jumper cables. Doing this when the quad battery is flat dead is not exactly good for the quad battery since the initial charge current will be too high. This can shorten the battery life slightly, but I'm guessing your battery is toast anyway or you wouldn't trying to start with the charger hooked up.
After jumping the quad battery try to start again. If the starter still doesn't turn then measure the voltage right on the starter terminal to engine ground and report back.
On the starter issue, DC motors don't hum. Humming must be due to the charger voltage collapsing at 60 or 120 hertz (the power mains frequency). Unless you are using a huge charger with huge charging current (which you shouldn't on such a small battery) it will not put out enough current to turn a starter.
Am I right in assuming the battery is flat dead and won't take a charge?
Try jumping the quad to your car with jumper cables. Doing this when the quad battery is flat dead is not exactly good for the quad battery since the initial charge current will be too high. This can shorten the battery life slightly, but I'm guessing your battery is toast anyway or you wouldn't trying to start with the charger hooked up.
After jumping the quad battery try to start again. If the starter still doesn't turn then measure the voltage right on the starter terminal to engine ground and report back.
#5
older kasea 125 will not start
I do not have a volt meter. but I tried to push start it and it is stuck in neutral. It is a automatic from what I was told. As far as I know the motor is free. The only thing I can guess is that there is a switch on the left handlebar that has lights controll a spot where the electric push button might go and a three way (1 2 3) top middle bottom My guess is the tranny shifter for forward neutral reverse. I will try to get pics up so you can see what I mean.
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older kasea 125 will not start
You really need to get a voltmeter. You can't troubleshoot electrics without a voltmeter. They are cheap, so there really isn't a good reason not to have one:
Voltmeter for $2.49
My guess is that "1 2 3" switch on the left handlebar is the kill switch (Center = run, anthing else = kill).
Automatics have a centrifical clutch that engages when the engine RPM rises above idle. You cannot push start them because since the engine is stopped the clutch will never engage no matter how fast you push it.
I think your engine is a GY6 if I remember right. These were designed for scooters where reverse isn't necessary. To add a reverse for quads a planetary gear set was added on the output shaft (that used to drive the rear wheel directly on scooters). The output side of the planetary gear set drives the chain sprocket. Forward / Neutral / Reverse is selected by a small lever on the top of the planetary gear set, which in turn is controlled by a cable to a gear shift lever on the right side of the engine.
Voltmeter for $2.49
My guess is that "1 2 3" switch on the left handlebar is the kill switch (Center = run, anthing else = kill).
Automatics have a centrifical clutch that engages when the engine RPM rises above idle. You cannot push start them because since the engine is stopped the clutch will never engage no matter how fast you push it.
I think your engine is a GY6 if I remember right. These were designed for scooters where reverse isn't necessary. To add a reverse for quads a planetary gear set was added on the output shaft (that used to drive the rear wheel directly on scooters). The output side of the planetary gear set drives the chain sprocket. Forward / Neutral / Reverse is selected by a small lever on the top of the planetary gear set, which in turn is controlled by a cable to a gear shift lever on the right side of the engine.
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older kasea 125 will not start
Set the voltmeter to measure DC Volts on the 20 volt scale. [Note this is different from measuring AC Volts. The DC volt settings will usually have a straight bar ("-") over the "V". AC volts hav a squigally line ("~") over the "V".]
Connect the probe leads to the "com" (black) and "ohm-V" (red) connections on the meter. For "ohm" the meter may instead use the greek letter omega which looks like a horseshoe with curly ends and is open at the bottom. Do not plug the voltmeter leads into the "10A" or "mA' connections.
1) Measure the battery voltage by putting the read lead on the plus post, and the black lead on the minus post. Report back what you read.
2) Turn on the headlights (you will probably have to turn on the ignition switch to get the headlights to work). Do the headlights come on? Measure the battery voltage as in the last step with the hreadlight on and report back.
3) Apply front and/or rear brakes until the brake light comes on. Push the start button. Do you hear a click? Measure the battery voltage again as per above, but do this while the brakes are applied and you are pushing the start button.
4) Finally, while pushing the start button with the ignition and brakes on, measure the voltage right on the starter motor terminal. Red lead goes on the big screw terminal on the starter motor, and the black lead goes to engine ground.
Step 1 measures the battery while it is unloaded. Step 2 measure the battery while slightly loaded. Step 3 measures whether the interlock circuitry is working and what the battery voltage is doing under heavy load. Step 4 measures whether the battery ever gets connected to the starter motor.
We'll go from there after we get those readings.
Connect the probe leads to the "com" (black) and "ohm-V" (red) connections on the meter. For "ohm" the meter may instead use the greek letter omega which looks like a horseshoe with curly ends and is open at the bottom. Do not plug the voltmeter leads into the "10A" or "mA' connections.
1) Measure the battery voltage by putting the read lead on the plus post, and the black lead on the minus post. Report back what you read.
2) Turn on the headlights (you will probably have to turn on the ignition switch to get the headlights to work). Do the headlights come on? Measure the battery voltage as in the last step with the hreadlight on and report back.
3) Apply front and/or rear brakes until the brake light comes on. Push the start button. Do you hear a click? Measure the battery voltage again as per above, but do this while the brakes are applied and you are pushing the start button.
4) Finally, while pushing the start button with the ignition and brakes on, measure the voltage right on the starter motor terminal. Red lead goes on the big screw terminal on the starter motor, and the black lead goes to engine ground.
Step 1 measures the battery while it is unloaded. Step 2 measure the battery while slightly loaded. Step 3 measures whether the interlock circuitry is working and what the battery voltage is doing under heavy load. Step 4 measures whether the battery ever gets connected to the starter motor.
We'll go from there after we get those readings.
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