04-05 Yamaha Raptor 50 - Page 18 - ATVConnection.com ATV Enthusiast Community

aceagent · #**171** (**permalink**) 02-13-2007, 03:34 PM

Hello everybody. I took the 80 and 450 out for the first time in mid november. 450 was a little more than I bargained for but I have adapted. 2nd day out I was in a 3rd gear powerslide and got ejected. (broken rib). It was a quick lesson on respect. Needless to say we have been having a blast. Both my kids and myself have gotten much better and more comfortable on our machines. After been asked to leave a few peices of private property in town we finally found our way to the track. I now have two new problems...

1. At 36 I still am brainless enough to try and hang with the kids on adult quads. I can beat most of the stock guys but there are of course the modifieds that crush me. It seems to be mostly in the suspension. I really cannot imagine needing more power. Thinking about hauser a-arms and swing arm with elka elite shocks. (looking for pros and cons)

2. On my sons 80 we called Al and ordered the spacers and ITP rim/tire combo. What a handling difference. Now I need to find a lot more bottom end power. He is getting crushed by kids on modded out etons. Which I know are two strokes. I have removed the restrictor plate in the airbox. Next step I am thinking of doing is the clutch ball mod. and maybe a cdi box.

He is also at a disadvantage because he really hasn't gotten that good at shifting and all the other kids are riding cvt trannies.

atvingnc · #**172** (**permalink**) 02-13-2007, 11:26 PM

aceagent,

We just put ITP tires and spacers on our Raptor 80 also and they are awesome. I definitely recommend the higher performance CDI and changing the main jet to a #80. I have also heard that moving the needle valve clip down a notch on the slider helps on acceleration. If you really wanna spend some $$$ Raptor80Racing has a limitless CDI, big bore kit (93cc), racing cam, 20mm carb. and high peformance exhausts for the machine.

MXdad789 · #**173** (**permalink**) 02-14-2007, 01:02 AM

I wouldnt put much money into the Raptor 80 to race it will never keep up. That is just a fact nothing can be done to it to run with the race minis. Look on any circuit you will not find a Raptor we run nationals on TT and MX. Just and honest thought you might want to consider.

aceagent · #**174** (**permalink**) 02-14-2007, 11:48 AM

I appreciate the honesty. I have a guy at the track that upon my arrival told me the same thing. I did get a great deal on the 80 though. 07' for $2,005 out the door. I really decided on it because it matched mine. Al at raptor80racing is where I got the rim/tires. He is a very nice guy. I have limits on what I am willing to dump into it though. If we really get serious about racing I will end up with a second atv just for that. Until then I really just want my son to be somewhat competitive with the other stock units. There is a completely modded out eton that smokes everybody. I know I can't touch that but would love to beat the others. Suzuki, kawasaki and eton stock bikes. I worked with him quite a bit this week on shifting but dont see him doing it well in a race just yet.

MXdad789 · #**175** (**permalink**) 02-14-2007, 12:32 PM

If you want a cheap start buy a extreme typhoon 125 from Billy Holt at WRH racing. It is a 4 spd picked one up for my daughter to ride in the pits and out wiht friends. For around 1800 delevered you could smoke stock Suz. Kawi and Eton that you mentioned you raced. The shocks are decent and adjustable look into it it is the cheapest way to race. With that Yamaha your not even giving that poor kid a chance. lol.

xsandslugx · #**176** (**permalink**) 03-20-2007, 04:58 AM

i was wonder if anyone as used paddles on your 50. i have been reading all the post and i have done a few of the mods now that the bike has a little more power i was thing about putting some paddles on. what size are you using.

atvingnc · #**177** (**permalink**) 03-20-2007, 06:41 AM

check out this website
http://www.raptorforum.com

go to this sub-forum

"Raptor 80 and 50"

checkout this post (subject)
"Pics of kids and the bikes they ride" by headingnorth.

he's got an 80 and 50 both with paddle tires, CDI, pipes, spacer mods. he can tell you
how the 50 runs with paddle tires.

PatM · #**178** (**permalink**) 07-10-2007, 04:56 PM

O.k. so after playing with this Raptor last year and getting it resolved then mysteriously the bug of not idling comes back does someone have what they are at with their low speed screw and idle/air screw on the amount of turns out on both of them. I got this resolved last year but this thing has been driving me crazy now for the past couple of months. I am about to say the heck with it and get my daughter either a Raptor 80 or go to something else. I have not had this much trouble tuning wise on anything else that I have had with a Yamaha name on it but this 50 is just kicking my butt. I am using the stock pilot jet with an 80 main. I went to the 12.5 pilot but it will not idle with the choke off. With the choke on the things revs through the roof. I got a new spark plug and thought maybe just maybe it was causing my problem. But still nothing.

atvingnc · #**179** (**permalink**) 07-11-2007, 07:59 AM

PatM,

first of all are all the bolts and screws on the carb. and intake manifold tight. having to have the choke on means that you are not getting enough fuel (too much air). 2nd, when last where the valves adjusted. this can cause rough idling. 3rd, is the oil level in the crankcase correct. I was on a forum thread where someone had a similiar problem and it ended up being that they didn't have enough oil in the crankcase they also just didn't seem to be able to get the idle mixture/idle speed correct. last, the float level in the carb. can also affect the idle mixture.

I found that adjusting the carb. is a matter of getting the idle speed as well as the idle mixture correct. if you get the idle mixture right but the idle speed set too high the machine will idle erratically. by this I mean that if you rev it it will take a long time for the motor to come back to idle speed or the motor will just continue to run at a higher speed and never come back to idle. too low and the machine will tend to stall when put into gear.

I am not at the machine now but from memory I'm going to say that idle mixture is between 1 and 2 turns out from seated. you should notice that if you turn the idle mixture screw in any further than 1/2 turn from seated that the machine will stall. if you turn the idle mixture out any further than say 3 turns the machine will run rough.

another thing to remember is that you will probably have to make some small adjustments to the idle mixture and idle speed from summer to winter. when the temperature changes the air density changes and this will cause the mixture to be off some (same with altitude). good luck.

I've copied a paragraph from an article on carb tuning. he used it to determine the correct jet size and I used this method to get my carb. tuned and it seemed to work pretty good. you can find the whole article at http://justkdx.dirtrider.net/carbtuning.html.

The Pilot Circuit, Tuning from Idle to ¼ Throttle -You can use the air screw to help determine if your pilot jet is appropriately sized. Take your bike for a short ride letting the engine come up to normal operating temperature. With the engine stopped, transmission in neutral and the bike on its stand turn the air screw clockwise until it just seats, gentle now it's delicate and you don't need to torque it down just gently seat it. Now turn the air screw a quarter of a turn out so the engine will fire and start it. Slowly turn the air screw counter clockwise ( out ) until the point where the engine just reaches the maximum obtainable rpm and continuing to turn the air screw beyond this point wont increase the engine speed (rpms) any further. I find it's easier to hear the rpm increasing if you set the idle at its lowest possible position without the engine stalling. You'll want to repeat this procedure a couple times until you're confident that you've found the right spot and that the result is reproducible. When you're comfortable count the number of turns ( 360° revolutions ) you've backed the air screw out to reach this point. The normal operating range is between 1 and 1.5 turns out so if you find the ideal setting is less that 0.75 turns out consider installing the next richer pilot jet (larger number ). If you find the ideal setting is more than 2 turns out consider installing the next leaner pilot jet ( smaller number ).

PatM · #**180** (**permalink**) 07-12-2007, 01:22 AM

Thanks atvingnc. I checked, double and triple checked everything was tight and no air leaks. I also used some silicone spray around all bolts and connection areas to make sure the motor didn't stall down. The problem I was having yesterday was the motor seemed like runaway but no matter what I did it just would not idle down. With the choke on the motor would idle high probably around 6-7000 rpm's. If I drop the choke just a hair the motor would begin to stall. I have gotten it to stay running just a hair but if you just touch the throttle it would idle real rough then possilby stall and at other times it would seem like it is running on fumes and then stall. The Raptor will onlly start if the choke is on and no other way. I am going to see if I can find a 17.5 pilot just. That is the only thing I can think of. I have the low speed circuit at 1.5 full turns out.

I actually saw that thread on the Raptor forum about the guy that added some oil because he was having the same problem but unfortunately that wasn't a fix for me. I also saw where someone pulled out 8 of the 12 balls and claimed that fixed their problem also. Unfortunately a second thing that wasn't a fix for me. In the past couple of days I replaced the #12.5 pilot back to the stock #15 pilot jet. Changed the oil with Mobil 1 synthetic 10/30, pulled 8 of the 12 balls, checked the valves and then played with jetting. I checked with my local Yamaha dealer to see if they had a 17.5 pilot and then also the fuel level gauge so I could check the fuel level in the chamber but they didn't.

I read the article that you had posted but that didn't really help with anything. There is another article that I have used over the years for when I use to race pwc for jetting specs. GroupK Carb Tuning Article Can you tell me on your idle mixture screw is it actually recessed in the chamber or is part of the screw actually protruded from the chamber? I have gone from full in to full out and it just will not allow the Raptor to idle with the choke off. I am going to see about calling Al over at Raptor80Racing to see if he has any insite on this. If I cann't get it figured out I either blow this motor up or try to find an 80 motor and put that in there. Just doesn't seem right that this thing will not idle. I guess I should of known it was going to be one of those problem childs after when I picked it up at the freight company it wouldn't not start.