There are 3 small things you can do that will improve performance. I assume you have removed the restrictor washer out of the exhaust. One is remove the carbon blow out plug off the bottom of the pipe. The other is take off the secondary clutch, take it apart, and cut some material off the ends of the 3 shoes and weight them to 175 grams. That will make the stall speed a lot better and help get it moving in the sand. Those changes wont affect any reliability and make it a lot more fun to ride. The stock carb works great on these bikes and dont need anything done to them. A good air filter will also help things out. You can start modding from there and go with whatever your pocket book will handle.
Stock: there's also another restrictor under the carb top. It ususally gets removed by the dealer. Just un-screw the carb top where the throttle cable goes in. If it's there it's round and solid metal. It will be between the underside of the carb top and the top of the carb slide. If you tackle the rear clutch assy, be careful. The first nut you remove is right handed, but the second one (larger/thinner nut) is "left" handed thread" and under a spring load . Use 2 hands to hold the pulley down while someone loosens the nut. If you don't things could get away from you. Porting, polishing and putting a new pipe would be the next steps. There's a whole bunch more that can be done this is only scratching the surface. We just finshed racing a 10 race seires on highly modified LT and over the course of time I learned a lot more about these little buggers...
So what does this clutch mod do??? just hook up faster??? Down the road, I will up the compression, and might port it and get LRD pipe, right know she rides the dang thing wide open all the time, ordered some shocks from Midwest mini.
Doing the rear clutch just raises the stall speed a bit. We run 155 grams on the race mods and that doesnt seem like enough to me. Going 175 grams is a nice small increase in stall speed that will allow the bike to holeshot faster and it will really shine when it comes to getting in the sand or any situation where a load is put on it.
Jack (LT80) can hook you up for any mods. He is really good and you can even keep your stock pipe. I like my ct pipe for the top end power that it gives me for the dunes. Ever see a LT80 go up Comp hill at buttercup or glamis??? What a site
I have a jetting question for guys. I was cleaning out the filters and carbs on my 80s gettin ready for Halloween at Dumont when I noticed a small amount of sand in the intake tubes before the carbs. I put UNI filters in them last year. I started thinking (maybe too much) and found a set of K&N filters that are for a set of 35mm airstryker banshee carbs. The filters fit perfectly in the larger hole of the intake tube allowing me to remove the entire aibox. I know that the LTs run rich from the factory. I did this mod the the KFX I have and left the LT alone. I loaded the bikes up and went to the sand dunes across the street and had my kids test them out. The open airbox bike was a dog off the bottom but reved out faster than the other. In a straight drag, the open bike was a little faster. I ran them for about 5 minutes or so and then did a plug check. The unmodified bike was typically rich, however the open airbox bikes plug was like coffee 4 creams. A little lean I thought. Has anyone else done this to a LT. I figured a bigger pilot jet would fix the bottem end bogging and a main would fatten up the plug but not sure on the needle. The bikes motors are stock except for the FMF fatty pipe and powercore II silencer. Both bikes are exactly the same. Thanks.
LT80 STOCK MODS
