2012 Brute Force 750 Alignment
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08-08-2011, 12:42 PM
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2012 Brute Force 750 Alignment
Hi,
I'm trying to get rid of my front end wobble. My wheels are toed in about a 1/4" on each side and I'd like to change it to zero toe-in. I've got my alignment points set up and I'm trying to get the Tie rod nuts loose. They're tight with little room to work around them. Does anybody know which end of the rod is reverse threads? (I don't want to make them any tighter), Also any other tips would be appreciated. The new location of the coolant resevoir isn't helping either. I may end up taking it to the dealer, but their service department is backed up right now. Thanks.
I'm trying to get rid of my front end wobble. My wheels are toed in about a 1/4" on each side and I'd like to change it to zero toe-in. I've got my alignment points set up and I'm trying to get the Tie rod nuts loose. They're tight with little room to work around them. Does anybody know which end of the rod is reverse threads? (I don't want to make them any tighter), Also any other tips would be appreciated. The new location of the coolant resevoir isn't helping either. I may end up taking it to the dealer, but their service department is backed up right now. Thanks.
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08-09-2011, 08:39 AM
#3
08-11-2011, 11:09 PM
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Toe-In
Hayashi,
Thanks for the reply. I ended up aligning it myself using the string method (had to buy some stubby metric wrenches). These wheels and tires came off of my 2008 BF 750. They had very little wobble on that machine (it had been adjusted to zero toe-in) and I had them balanced previously. I've had 3 Brute Force 750's now and every one of them had front end wobble or shake when ITP radials were installed on them. Holeshot ATR's and now Terracross. Each of them came from the factory with toe-in and all of them did the same thing with ITP radials (the only brand I've tried so far). This 2012 had 1/4" on each side. Somebody on another forum a few years back said that going to zero toe out was the solution and it has worked for me. My original dealer said that he usually would even go to a little toe out. I'm not sure why it helps. I'm guessing that the lug tread design pushes and pulls sideways and the radial sidewalls flex back and forth. Zero Toe-in must minimize the effect. I also found that adjusting air pressure from 6 lbs. up to 8 lbs. also helps (maybe because it stiffens the sidewalls). The Terracross seem worse than the ATR's probably because the bi-directional tread design has left and right facing chevron tread. Even the guy from ITP admitted to me that the Terracross seemed to display the effect worse.
Thanks for the reply. I ended up aligning it myself using the string method (had to buy some stubby metric wrenches). These wheels and tires came off of my 2008 BF 750. They had very little wobble on that machine (it had been adjusted to zero toe-in) and I had them balanced previously. I've had 3 Brute Force 750's now and every one of them had front end wobble or shake when ITP radials were installed on them. Holeshot ATR's and now Terracross. Each of them came from the factory with toe-in and all of them did the same thing with ITP radials (the only brand I've tried so far). This 2012 had 1/4" on each side. Somebody on another forum a few years back said that going to zero toe out was the solution and it has worked for me. My original dealer said that he usually would even go to a little toe out. I'm not sure why it helps. I'm guessing that the lug tread design pushes and pulls sideways and the radial sidewalls flex back and forth. Zero Toe-in must minimize the effect. I also found that adjusting air pressure from 6 lbs. up to 8 lbs. also helps (maybe because it stiffens the sidewalls). The Terracross seem worse than the ATR's probably because the bi-directional tread design has left and right facing chevron tread. Even the guy from ITP admitted to me that the Terracross seemed to display the effect worse.
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