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  #1 (permalink)  
Old 10-17-2005, 09:46 PM
Pro Rider
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Default Brute Force 750 air box and winch

Hey everyone,
I'm back from my initial ride of my new BF750 and have some questions and concerns. I put about 50 miles on it with some mudding and mostly nice trails. I got into one mud pit and got stuck(need mud tires), but back right out of it. Anyways, I decided to check my air filter to see how it looks after a weekend and it doesnt look good. There was about an 1/8" of mud on the bottom of the air box, mud on the inside of the lid, part of the air filter itself, and it looks like some made it through and wanted to go down the carbs, ahhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh. I've been in deeper pits with my P650 before and have not had the bad of a problem, I is a mess in there; I'm going to run it through the dishwasher. The seal for the box cover also seems to suck, it pulled right out when I took the cover off.

So the question is:
Has anyone else ran into the problem and what was your fix? Are there any airbox mods to stop mud from entering?

I see this as a major problem and dont want it to be, any tips would be great.

Secondly,
I'm on to installing my winch since I took half the plastics off to take out the airbox. I notice in the back where warn says to mount the actuator there are two wires with plugs on them connected to nothing and then two wires up front with plugs on them connected to nothing. Are we, as brute force owners, extremely lucky that Kawi installed the wires for the handlebar switch? If not, then what the heck are they for?

Finally, for the install; I assume the third red wire on the switch goes directly to battery? They dont say anything about that little guy.

Thanks everyone and sorry for the long and drawn out post.


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  #2 (permalink)  
Old 10-18-2005, 12:11 AM
Range Rover
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Default Brute Force 750 air box and winch

I can help with the winch wiring issues. First, take your tool kit out from under your seat and mount the winch solenoid in the spot where the tool kit went. Be very careful not to use screws that are too long through the bottom plastic as the fuel tank is right underneath where you want to mount to solenoid.
Trust me it is WAY better place to mount it. Not much mud and dirt in there, and no tree limbs to hit it either. Your seal will still fit just fine. Mine's been this way since new ( more than a year) You can also cut your sires shorter if you are good at replacing the crimped and soldered on large guage connectors on the main power wires. Makes for a much cleaner instalation.
As far as the connectors hangin down in back, one of them is a connector for an optional back-up light. I have installed a real nice 55 watt unit using a relay that I also mounted underneath the seat and the relay is triggered by the positive wire from the conector designated for the back-up light. This way I know it is fused prperly and a shorted or crushed back-up light should not burn up my harness.
The back-up light is a really REALLY nice thing if you do any night riding at all. You'd be surprised how dark it gets back there when your eyes are used to staring at the bright area lit up by the headlights while riding.
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Old 10-18-2005, 01:32 AM
Trailblazer
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Default Brute Force 750 air box and winch

As for the mud in the airbox, you have two options. You can go to http://atv.dnsalias.com/techtip.cgi and check out his mod for the air box, or you can snorkle it. I am leaning towards snorkling mine because I like to trail ride, but if I see any mud while riding I get it.
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Old 10-18-2005, 07:25 AM
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Default Brute Force 750 air box and winch

I'm thinking a snorkle too with a decent size drain hole in the bottom. Seems like it wont be too hard. I think my main concern was the transmission intake since that feeds from th part I would remove. What do you think would be the best way for the snorkle for the airbox to point; forward, down, backwards? Also, what do most of you make them out of? Any ideas would be great. Thanks.
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Old 10-18-2005, 03:19 PM
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Default Brute Force 750 air box and winch

If I were to get one I would probably go through these guys: http://www.bayousnorkels.com/ They may be a bit high in price, but they seem to be of good quality and tested.
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Old 11-21-2005, 07:16 PM
Weekend Warrior
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Default Brute Force 750 air box and winch

I installed the winch solinoid were the tool kit was also, other than screws I used wire ties. I been ridding like this for six months with no problems.
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  #7 (permalink)  
Old 01-08-2010, 10:20 AM
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Location: Cohoes NY
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Default Mud in air box

I had the same problem with mine.. I have a 07 bf750 and it has an opening in the front of the air box that really needs to be closed I used a fernco from home depot and some pvc and made my own snorkles and saved a lot of money, it was really easy to do to. the only reason I did this is because like you I got mud and water in my air box and when I took it back to the dealer Troy city garage in troy NY they treated me like I was out sinking my brand new quad up to the bars in mud and that was not the case there is a flaw in the air box!!!! So I payed another dealer cash out of my pocket to rebuild it at a cost of $2300... this was last year and now my crank is going again!!!!!! I just hope Kawasaki can HELP!!!
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Old 01-08-2010, 11:39 AM
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Nick;
Just want to verify that you have a 2007 750 BF and not a 2010 correct?

I'm in the process of buying a new 2010 750 BF and am reading all kinds of bad things about these machines sucking in vapour, dust, grit and water even from shallow crossings because of the design of the Air intake on the box.

Below is a direct quote from the kawasaki Website in the technology section of the 2010 Brute Force 750 speaking about the Airbox intake:

Quote:

Air routed to the air filter (and to the CVT) enters a cavity located in front of the air box via a rear-facing intake passage under the handlebars. This helps prevent the ingress of water, mud, dust, etc. A 3-piece shroud box further reduces the possibility of water and mud entering the air box and CVT cavity in harsh conditions.

End Quote.

I would like to know if this is the same design as prior models or is this a new design for the 2010's.
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2012 Brute Force 750 EPS - Super Black
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  #9 (permalink)  
Old 01-08-2010, 11:55 AM
Nick in NY's Avatar
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2007 Kawasaki Brute Force 750 NRA
 
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it sounds as if it is the same design to me... I took the shroud at the front off and like I said I got a fernco at home depot it's a 2inch to 2inch rubber boot and used 2inch pvc and made my snorkles my self.. just set it together befor you glue it and mark it with a black marker... Easy as it gets
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Old 01-08-2010, 11:55 AM
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Tags
2010, 750, air, airbox, box, brute, bruteforce, force, hole, installing, mod, snorkel, tips, winch, wiring



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