Anybody know what the correct valve clearances for a 2004 Recon 250 are?

Thanks

 

Intake & exhaust both set to: 0.13 mm (0.005 in)

 

Thanks Honda Mechanic!

I had checked the valve clearances on my other ATV (a Rancher for which I have a shop manual). I might as well check my wife's Recon too, before I forget how to do it[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-happy.gif[/img]

 

Can you give a detailed description on how to adjust these valves on this machine?

I have one that is making an aweful racket in the motor & sounds like the valves - I an new to this machine & was told that the valves are a little different to set on these....

I have a 2004 Honda Recon TRX250T

 

<div class="FTQUOTE"><begin quote>Originally posted by: JBOYZ

Can you give a detailed description on how to adjust these valves on this machine?
I have one that is making an aweful racket in the motor & sounds like the valves - I an new to this machine & was told that the valves are a little different to set on these....
I have a 2004 Honda Recon TRX250T</end quote></div>



Haven't had a chance to do the Recon yet, but I assume it's similar to the Rancher which I did a while ago. Working from memory this is the general sequence we did on the Rancher - the Recon might differ a little (??)

Disconnect the battery to avoid accidentally starting engine
Remove the spark plug
Remove the plastic covering the fuel tank and the engine sides (this is a bit of a pain but you have to be able to access the engine)
Close the fuel valve so it read's 'OFF" Remove the fuel valve ****
Disconnect the fuel line from the carburetor
Disconnect the vent lines (make yourself a drawing so you remember how they go back)
Remove the fuel tank
You should have a clear view of the top of the engine now
Remove the timing hole cap on side of engine with a hex wrench - you should be able to see the crankshaft - use a small penlight or flashlight to see inside
You'll see various marks etched onto the crankshaft along with an index mark as you SLOWLY pull the manual starter rope
Remove the valve cover and you should see the intake and exhaust rocker arms
You need to get the piston at Top Dead Center on the COMPRESSION stroke. You should see a 'T' indicating the piston is at TDC. Feel the rocker arms. If you feel some play you are at the COMPRESSION stoke. If they feel tight and don't move at all you're not at the COMPRESSION stroke. Using the starter cord, SLOWLY make another revolution again stopping when the 'T' is aligned with the index mark. The rocker arms should have a small amount of play in them now.
Insert a feeler gauge between rocker arm pad and valve stem. If rocker arm needs to adjusted, first loosen the lock nut then tighten or loosen the adjuster with a flat head screwdriver. Clearances for both intake and exhaust should be .005" as per "Honda Mechanic's" post.
You should feel slight resistance when you remove the feeler gauge. When correct, lock down the adjusting nut for both valves.

Put everything back in reverse order.

Post again if this doesn't make sense to you. It also helps (immensely) if you have a shop manual. The manual explains things better than I can!

 

Thank you - will give this a shot this evening... Hoping this will eliminate the rattle I have in the motor....

 

A little FYI (by the date, I'm a little late) I have a Foreman 450s that had a little "rattle". I adjusted the valves - no difference in the rattle. It turns out that what I was hearing was slack in the timing chain