2001 Honda Rancher 350 ES

It starts and idles fine, but when I try to accelerate it dies. Any ideas?

I can boodle around at idle speed, but as soon as I give it the gas - nada!

Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks!
Scott

 

This happend to mine after it sat a while. I took the carb off and took it all apart and cleaned it with carb cleaner and some compressed air, now it runs good as new and starts up right away everytime.

 

Thanks for the info! Any tips for pulling off the carburetor on this thing? I've never done it before, but it looks like I need to pull out the air filter housing and the side plastic to get to it. Is that correct? Also, is there any trick to pulling the plastic pins or do they just pop out? Does the gas tank have to come off?

Any carb pulling info for a first timer would be appreciated!

Thanks,
Scott

 

I would pullboth the side plastics off to make it easier to access things, they are just held by the plastic pins and one 10mm bolt that is towards the back on the bottom. I found that twisting a large flat head screw driver was the best way to pull the pins. After you get the two panels off you can remove the air box, I found the easier way to access it was remove the nut on the left side, and then just get the bracket on the bottom off the stud. After that its pretty straight forward, remove the cover on the right side of the carb, there is only one phillips screw holding it. This gives you access to the throttle cable and you can unhook the end of it from the carb. The next thing to do is follow the wire from the bottom of the carb to a plastic plug and unplug that, this is the fuel bowl heater. Finally, remove the choke cable by loosening the plastic nut on top of the carb, be very careful when tightening this later on when putting it on because its plastic and can easily break(I know this from experience.) After this loosen up the clamp holding the boot tight and you can remove the carb now and take it apart to clean it.

 

Man, thanks so much for taking the time to help me out. I really appreciate it. I'm gonna give it a shot.

Gotta go watch Packer-Giants now..........

Scott

 

scottyp 2004ytz has good info on what you need to do to remove the carb !

The best stuff to clean your carb is Berryman Chem Dip , your can get it in the gallon size can that come's with a part's basket ( Note the Gallon Can with the part's basket for dunking and does cost more ; and you can use the Berryman B-12 Chem Tool in the spray can but the dunking is faster in the gallon can and will come in handy for cleaning other part's later on !

After taking the carb apart remove all the rubber gasket's and plastic part's like the float if it's plastic or the float clip , and before you remove the air/fuel mixture screw first count the number of turn's clockwise untill a light seat is felt , be carefull not to turn it to tight or you will damage the seat ; there are 3 product's that really get the job done fast and right !

1. Berryman Chem Dip (Gallon size for atv/motorcycle/lawn and garden equipment ) (Industrial Grade not marked on can ) part's cleaner.
2. Sea Foam/Deep Creep (they're both the same product only "Deep Creep" come's in spray can ) .
3. Acetone ( Fast Drying Agent ) .

Once you take the carb apart you just put the carb and jet's in the part's basket and dunk them 5 -to -10 time's in 5- to- 10 second interval's according to how dirty carb is , (Caution don't get it on your hand's ) it will remove paint , dirt , dead gas , varnish deposit's you name it ; and if you use Acetone as a drying agent you only have to rinse the carb and part's in water !

Once you rinse the Chem Dip from the carb and part's , you just put it all in a pan , can or cut off milkjug what ever you have around in the Acetone ; the Acetone will dry out water in a matter of second's then put it back together and it's ready to reinstall carb in reverse order !......

 

I got the same problem i will be running good all day then outta no where it will jus die and not start back up intill all the garbage i guess settles in the carb, guess time to take it apart and clean it.
I have a 06rancher 400AT so it should be about the same as the rancher 350?....
whats the price on that berryman chem dip and where can i find it?
and should i have a problem with at air/fuel mixture needle how difficult is that?

Williebee and 2004ytz yall got good advice so ill try it out, Scottyp let me know how yours goes....

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06 Honda Rancher 400AT, 2" lift, 26/12/12 mud lites rear, 26/10/12 mud lites front, ITP chrome rims, HMF slip on pipe, exhaust wrap, K&N filter, outwears prefilter wrap, Dyno jet kit, customized snorkle with differential and carb vent lines ran up with snorkle, 2000lbs superwinch, warn front bumber with warn trail lights

 

2004ytz i forgot about the plastic nut on the side of the carb , and i wasn't sure how much Honda had changed since i had my first quad ; mine was an 86' Honda TRX350 Foreman 4x4 and it didn't have the heater my brother bought the 2004 Honda TRX350FM Rancher 4x4 !

While i was covered up in lawn and garden equipment repair work in my shop , i took my Foreman to the local dealer who i thought he would have a factory technian do a complete first serving ; only to have a young kid still in high school he could work for mininum wage's crack the plastic nut on the carb and strip the oil drain plug !

That was when i desided to do my own work , after i made the dealer pay the money for the repair's i had to do myself ; but i still got ripped off for work they claimed to do to my quad but you sometimes have to learn the hard way !

Any way good luck on the Rancher , hope that is all you need to do to it ; but if that doesn't do it there's alway's someone here to help you that's what i like about the forums you learn things everyday !......

 

so jus be careful with the air/fuel mixture screw needle and the plastic nut onth e side and i should be good?
Yea i think thats all it is, i have been sometimes spraying seafoam threw the vent lines and it cleans the carb good for a few times riding but not for long so i guess it has to be the carb

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06 Honda Rancher 400AT, 2" lift, 26/12/12 mud lites rear, 26/10/12 mud lites front, ITP chrome rims, HMF slip on pipe, exhaust wrap, K&N filter, outwears prefilter wrap, Dyno jet kit, customized snorkle with differential and carb vent lines ran up with snorkle, 2000lbs superwinch, warn front bumber with warn trail lights

 

SwampRancher i just got off the phone O'reillys Auto Parts has the Berryman Chem Dip gallon size can , for $31.29 + tax or tax included ; the parts guy was in a hurry and i just woke up with the pc in hybernation mode but i'm pretty sure he said $31.29 tax included !

It may be more or less depending on your location , Auto Zone and Advance Auto Parts Stores all have it ; so it could be cheaper at one of these store's and most will match or beat each other on price !

If you have that much trash in your fuel system you will need to drain and wash out the gas tank as well use the Acetone for fast drying time on the fuel tank and carb you can get it from any hardware store Home Depot and Loews for best price they will meet the others price plus 10 percent off that price , and i would get a clear inline fuel filter and install it between the fuel tank and carb ; with it you can tell at a glance if you get water or trash in the fuel system again !

Price's for a good one are $5.00 to $8.00 clamps included , this gas we get at the filling station's when their tank's get low the pump's will pick up crap ; that's why i alway's buy gas and mix it in the gas jug's !

The Sea Foam i get from O'Reillys for $5.99 + tax , the last time i bought the Chem Dip i bought a one gallon and one 5 gallon can because i was going to rebuild the throddle body on my 87' Chevy S10 pickup ; and the one gallon can the throddle body and all it's parts wouldn't fit in the small can !

And don't forget the Sea Foam , it's a fuel cleaner/stabilizer that will clean the entire fuel system and clean's the combustion chamber of carbon deposit's ; my old 88' GMC S1500 Jimmy 4x4 MPV with over 303 thousand mile's had so much carbon deposit's in the combustion chamber that it was blowing a cloud of white and blue smoke after stopping at traffic light's on take off and then clearup once it got going !

Like i stated in my earlier reply this stuff is the very best product i've seen on the market , and i was in the Small Engine Service and Repair Industry for over 20 yrs. and i only found out about it a couple yrs. ago ; and it has been on the market since 1947 !

I did alot of valve job's and complete overhaul's that could've been taken care of with the Sea Foam alone had i known about it , my brother was the one to find out about it while doing a search on these forums ; when he bought a bass boat that had situp over a year with two of the metal gas tank's full of dead gas !

Even the fuel line with the rubber squeaze bulb primer was stopped up with dead gas he couldn't even blow the line out with compressed air , and he used a metal coat hanger and stuck it in the fuel hose to clean as much as he could of the dead gas/mix and poured some Sea Foam into the fuel hose ; and hung it up over night !

He told me when he went back out to his shop the Sea Foam was leaking from the bottom of the fuel hose , he poured some more into the hose while he was checking the moter out ; and turned around 20 or 30 minutes later there was puddle of bad gas and Sea Foam on the shop floor !

I couldn't believe it i thought he was going to have to replace the fuel hose , and he was going to pay me $100.00 to fix the outboard motor ; Dang it Sea Foam "lol" for beating me out of $100.00 buck's !

If you're a Small Engine Tech and you need money , you can still make good money using the Sea Foam and Deep Creep without tearing into the engine and carb to fix it most of the time ; i guess that's why no one i bought part's from ever told me or any of their customer's about it or they didn't know about it themselves !

I was alway's honest with my customer's when i would tell them about winterizing their machine's with Staybil Fuel Stabilzer , when storing their lawn and garden equipment from one season to the next ; but with the staybil you still had to pour out any mixed fuel from the engine's and i would tell them to just mix the fuel on their last time using their equipment and tell them to let the engine run untill they burned all the fuel from the tank through the engine !

This way all they had to do when starting off a new season was to put a new plug and fresh gas then they were ready to go , but being honest is why they were repeat customer's year afte year untill i closed shop in 2004 ; and i still have all the work i didn't want after retirement !

I didn't lie to my customer's even when i needed the money , i told them the truth even when it mean't they didn't need me anymore ; i couldn't sleep at night if i wasn't honest with a person and needless to say i sleep good at night knowing i helped someone from being taken to the cleaner's by some of the big Dealership's !..........