NO I DIDN'T TRY TO ROCK IT . I'LL TRY IT TOMORROW. THE EMERGANCY SHIFT WORKS PERFECT. PS. THATS NOT A DUM QUESTION, ANYTHING IS POSSIBLE SINCE I'VE CHANGED ALL THE PARTS FOR THE ELECTRIC SHIFT & IT STILL DON'T WORK. I'LL LET YOU KNOW TOMORROW. IF YOU HAVE ANY OTHER IDEAS PLEASE LET ME KNOW...

 

techie, you need to relax...its not a dumb question, because he also has fault codes...just rocking it aint gonna do it.

On the orange to the blue green...yes it should show an open circuit, key off, no buttons pressed. Those wires come from the ecu, and not the buttons. If you check the two wires out of the button, they will show short when the button is pressed, and open when not pressed. Checking the motor side shouldnt be no resistance..but some, it may be so little as to apear a dead short, but should be at least a few ohms.

still having the code one and five?

 

YES I'M STILL HAVING THE 1 & 5 CODES. I DON'T GET THE 2 CODE ANYMORE SINCE I REPLACED THE HANDLEBAR SWITCHES BUT WHEN I CHECK FOR CONTINUITY IN THE HANDLEBAR SWITCHES AT THE 22 PIN PLUG, I GET NO CONTINUITY WHEN I (DON'T PRESS) THE UP/DOWN BUTTONS WHICH IS CORRECT & I GET NO CONTINUITY WHEN I (DO PRESS) THE UP/DOWN BUTTONS WHICH IS WRONG. WHATS UP WITH THAT ??

 

To check the buttons...disconnect the 22 pin connector on the ecu, (and have the key off, the whole time.) Then put the ohmeter between the black/light blue wire, and the white/yellow wire. Watch the meter while pressing the upbutton, then the down button. You should get continuity when you press either button. There should not be continuity if neither button is pressed. Use the ohm scale, on the meter.

 

CHECKED THE CONTINUITY ON THE SHIFT BUTTONS. ALL GOOD... I STILL GET THE 1 & 5 FLASHES.. WHAT'S NEXT ??????

 

Try clearing the codes, and then well see what comes back.
Heres how to do that.
A) turn the key off
B)make sure the tranny is in neutral
C)set the parking brake
D)Push both up and down shift buttons, simultaneously, and hold them both down, while turning the key to on.
E)release the buttons before the indicator shows the N for neutral. Youll have about a second or two, from the time the key goes on, til the n shows up.
F)Push in both buttons(after the N shows up), at the same time, for at least 3 seconds, then release. The trouble codes should appear.
The most recent code will come up first.
To delete the codes,press both buttons at the same time, while the code is displayed.
Key off.

Now start it up, and try to shift and drive it...see what comes back.


The other thing to try, it may not help much, but it wont hurt anything either. Do the clutch adjustment. Theres a nut and slotted screw, on the forward side of the motor. If you go at it from the left footwell, its easy to find. Loosen the locknut, about 2 turns. With a screwdriver, turn the slotted screw, CCW, until you feel increased resistance. Stop, and now back off,CW, 1/4 turn. Hold the screw stationary, and snug up the locknut. This adjusts the clearance in the linkage from the shifter to the clutch pack.

If the codes come back, then we can go thru the troubleshooting steps again.

 

IF I DO THE TEST THE 1 & 5 CODES STILL APPEAR. WHEN I DELETE THE 1 CODE & TURN THE KEY SWITCH BACK ON THE 5 CODE FLASHES. IF I DO THE TEST AGAIN BOTH 1 & 5 FLASH AGAIN. ONCE AGAIN I DELETE THE 1 CODE & TURN THE KEY BACK ON & THE 5 FLASH APPEARS AGAIN. NO MATTER WHAT I DO THE 5 FLASH WON'T GO AWAY AT ALL.... I KNOW THAT THE 5 FLASH IS A MAJOR PROBLEM BUT EACH TIME I DO THE TEST THE 1 FLASH APPEARS. IS THAT I PROBLEM TOO ???? I EVEN PUT A BRAND NEW ECU BOX ON TODAY & IT STILL DOES THE SAME STUFF AS ABOVE. HELP !!!!

 

Not sure whats up with the one code. A different ecu is supposedly the fix. One flash means an error in the writing and recording circuit.

The 5 flash...lets go down the steps again. Its posible that when that gets fixed...the one flash will go away.
Look over the connections, both sides(female and male) of the ecu ,shift control motor. The conatacts need to be clean, and making contact when assembled.
Disconnect the small connector at the ecu, hook up the voltmeter on the red/yellow wire and the other lead to ground....go key on, should have at least 11 volts.
turn key back off.
Ohm check the green wire to ground, should be extremly little resistance, a direct short, as this is the ground wire for the ecu.
Disconnect the connector at the shift control motor, and check the continuity of the orange wire there, back up to the connector at the ecu, also colored orange. Same for the green/blue.
Youve said if you jump the motor direcrtly, itll shift...that would be the next step.
Then it says to change out the ecu....which you have.
Im running out of ideas....anyone else?

 

MY BROTHER CAME OVER TODAY & WORKED ON THE BIKE WITH ME TODAY. WE WENT THROUGH EVERYTHING AGAIN. STILL ALL GOOD BUT STILL FLASHING 1 & 5 FLASHES. WE DELETED THE 1 FLASH WHICH WAS GOOD. THEN I DID THE TEST TO SEE FOR CODE FLASHES, THE 1 FLASH CAME BACK ALONG WITH THE 5 FLASH. I HELD THE UP & DOWN BUTTONS IN & DELETED THE 5 FLASH BUT COULDN'T DELETE THE 1 FLASH SO I TURNED THE KEY OFF & ON & THE FIVE FLASH CAME BACK. THIS IS A NIGHTMARE THAT HAS CAME TRUE. THEY WILL NOT GO AWAY. I EVEN TRIED TO DISCONNECT THE BATTERY & ALL THE WIRES FOR A DAY, STILL THE SAME PROBLEM. MY BROTHER TOOK THE BIKE HOME TO EXAMINE IT OVER REAL GOOD. HE TOLD ME THAT THE BIKE WAS NOT COMING BACK UNLESS THE ELECTRIC SHIFT WAS WORKING. I SPENT ABOUT $800 & IT STILL WON'T WORK. I LOVE HONDA ALL THE WAY BUT I'LL NEVER BUY ANOTHER HONDA WITH ELECTRIC SHIFT. I WILL LET YOU KNOW ON WHAT THE PROBLEM WAS WHEN MY BROTHER BRINGS THE BIKE BACK. IF YOU OR ANYBODY HAS ANY OTHER IDEAS PLEASE LET ME KNOW SO THAT I CAN TELL MY BROTHER . THANKS FOR THE HELP !!!!!

 

Sorry i couldnt help more, usually the troubleshooting steps provide the answer.
I have both the factory service manual and the clymers...and the steps are the same.
Let us know what you find.