thanks

 

hey thanks swft! do you know how much that would be??
thanks
kc

 

i paid 300 for my frame to get done. it is alot of work,the shop has to fill the holes with hi-temp plugs so the paint does not get n all of the bolt holes.

 

We just did a 3-stage powdercoat on a frame with a metallic red finish that was 280. That included plugging all the holes, sandblasting, and the coat.

 

My friend can paint my frame for pretty cheap, he said use a single stage with some hardener added. Has anyone done this and how well does it hold up? I can get it sand blasted pretty cheap too. Any other input?

Just got back from Sandfest at Little Sahara, OK. Second year for Sandfest, and it awesome, other than my R locked up on me Saturday afternoon. So while Im working on the engine, I guess I might as well tear it down and rebuild it from the ground up.

Anybody have some recommendations on some +2 or +3 a-arms that are around 500 or less?


-----------
86 trx250r
97 warrior

 

The cost depends a lot on who does the job.

Basic colors like black, silver vein etc will hold up longer than the fancy multi color prism type stuff.

Powder coating will hold up better than paint (due to the "epoxy" like nature of the product/process) but paint if done CORRECTLY will hold up much longer/better than most think.

I am currently testing some different paint methods and products for durability. Everything from basic spray aerosols to 2 part epoxys and different primers as well.

Though not nearly done with the tests I have been pleasantly suprised with the performance of some of the aerosols, especially when compared to the oem finish. I am expecting the epoxy to compare to powder but without the added costs and heat issues.

I think Powder coating is fine and most times better than reg painting etc but still prefer chrome plated and polished above both on the small stuff, and leave the powder to the frame etc.

If I somehow remember I will update on the findings over the winter off season.

 

Automotive paint is what I use on all of my projects! (it helps if you've been in the business all of your life) :-)

I use a bulletproof combination that won't let you down. First, you must start off with a clean substrate. Take your part down to the bare metal or aluminum. You can either sand it down or use a chemical stripper. Clean and degrease the surface, scuff thoroughly with a red 3M scuff pad (7447) and apply a single coat of Sikkens EP epoxy primer. For Honda red, come back wet-on-wet 15 minutes later with two to three coats of Sikkens Autocryl 359 acrylic urethane enamel. Once this combination is dry, you'll have a rock-hard, high-gloss finish that will take a beating and last a long time without fading or delamination. Sikkens backs their products in certified spray facilities with a LIFETIME warranty against fading, cracking or peeling (delamination). That in itself should say something about the product. Here's a few shots of the process:

The Chemical Stripping Process

The Chemical Stripping Process (More)

The Chemical Stripping Process (Close-Up)

Primed Part Drying On Jig

Red Parts Drying On Jig

The Finished Product In 359 Red

The Finished Product In Rally Black

Hope this helps.

Good luck! [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/img]

 

Great post.

There is deffinately something to be said about the single stage urethanes for this application. This type of product should out perform the base clear especially when prepped and applied correctly as you state.

I think that this combined with the benfits of the epoxy primer not losing adheasion is a deff winner. Most of the problems I have seen with any type of paint have been in the substrate (primer or primer to metal adheasion) and most were done professionaly with brand name paints.

For those reading the info in the post above that are not pro painters two big parts of the succes to this process are the proper prep of the metal for the application of the epoxy primer and what was called "wet on wet" which is the application of the paint over the primer before the primer fully dries which will in MOST instances create a better bonding or adheasion between the paint and primer.

Just curious PilotSniper if you have experience with clearing over the color, products other than sikkens, or have used any type of flex additive?

Again that was a great post [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/img]

 

I bought 5lbs of superchrome powder and only used 1lb. Anyone want to buy a pound? Looks like polished alum. more than pure chrome.

 

Thank you for the compliment on the post. Again, since I've been selling these products all of my life, I figured a little info would help those who needed or wanted it.

You can clear over the single stage if you like. Although it's not necessary, it is possible. Single-stage products contain the protective resins that allow for durability within the actual product. These protective resins make their way to the surface of the product as it's curing. Although they're not as durable as a true basecoat/clearcoat finish, they are durable nonetheless. For Autocryl, a 15 minute flash after your last coat on solid colors and 45 minutes if you're clearing over a metallic color (more time because the metallic will move) is all that's needed before laying on a clearcoat.

As for other products other than Sikkens Autocryl, Autobase and Autobase Plus, I've applied Lesonal Intermix, Lesonal 1K, U-Tech Polybase, U-Tech Polybase Plus, U-Tech 200 System, U-Tech 3.8 System, U-Tech 3.5 System, House Of Kolor, Western Synthetic and Kirker Acrylic Enamels. Back in the older days I sprayed R-M Miracryl, R-M Miracryl 2, R-M Alpha-Cryl, R-M Super-Max, Amer-Flint, Super-Cryl and Suntron. I've probably missed a few here and there, but they're not as important as the products readily available on the market today.

As far as flex additives are concerned, I have incorporated the use into a painting application only when dealing with very flexible substrates, like the rear sponge spoiler on a 1987 CRX Si and the likes. We once did a full basecoat/clearcoat job using Elast-O-Actif (flex additive) on a Nerf football. We tossed the football around the group before one of our seminars. The people attending had no idea that our product was on the very ball they were tossing. Once the seminar started and we told them, they couldn't believe the degree of flexibility our product actually demonstrated. They then REALLY put the squeeze on the ball in order to make it crack somehow, but to no avail.

Today's products are much better than the products in the past. We are currently undergoing federal mandates governing the level of VOC's (volatile organic compounds) in these products as well as moving into a world of super-dispersion (SUPDI) pigmentation. There's even a product in testing now that uses ultraviolet light for complete curing in five minutes! One thing I can tell you (without sounding too much like a salesperson) is that Akzo Nobel's product lines (Sikkens, Lesonal and U-Tech) are by far the leaders in the coatings industry. Everyone else is playing "catch up". It's nice to be riding in the forefront...

[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/img]