The carb will have to be removed and cleaned , the inlet needle checked for wear the inlet needle seat checked , the float & float pin checked ..
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Myself I have several old 1L oil jugs & 4L anti-freeze jugs cut off and cleaned ..I dis-assemble the carb putting jets , emultion tube , float & needle etc in 1 of the oil jugs , and I put the carb body in an anti-freeze jug (after removing all rubber hoses ,o'rings etc) I fill both containers with carb cleaner and let set 1 day .. The Honda carb cleaner isn't cheap but over the years I've saved several gallons from carbs cleaned .. I save it by using 1 new can with every carb cleaned (the customer gets charged for 1 can carb cleaner) ..
We've tried several brands of carb cleaner and found that the Honda carb cleaner is 1 of the best working , jets and all brass parts come out shiny looking like new .. The aluminum carb body if left in carb cleaner to long will start turning blackish color so don't leave it soak to long ..
When you remove the carb parts clean them with contact cleaner and air especially holes like pilot screw hole , vent line holes etc ..
That is the only proper way to clean a carb ..
I've seen on forums that some people use wire like oxy/ace welding tip cleaners etc to clean jets .. Once you push a steel wire thru a brass jet then your 120/42 jets (or 128/42 jets on 2004-06 TRX350) is no longer 120/42 .. I have Honda wire jet cleaners made for power products but I don't even use those on power product carbs for the same reason ..
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Polaris 500 sportsman
