I brought a 110cc tao tao that had starting issues. when i got this atv it had no flywheel which i purchased and put on, then i began to start it still no spark, so i replaced cdi, stator, ignition switch, coil and still no spark! can anyone tell me what could be my issue? im thinking maybe the timing is off. any help will be appreciated thanks in advance.

 

i take it your starter cranks from the button? i take it your kill switches are ok? i take it that by the starter cranking that your safety interlocks are satisfied, otherwise it wouldn't crank/turn over the engine. SO, let's troubleshoot and find out what's killing your spark. start out with new NGK plug. while cranking, check for voltage at coil. if no measurement, back up to the kill switches and measure just "upstream" of there. measure the stator output while cranking yet? double check your quick connects along all circuits. sometimes inside the quick connects the blades will get pushed back and not make contact with the mate blade.

 

ok, lets see. when i took on this task i started with a missing key and flywheel. the electric start switch not working. someone hotwired it with two wires coming off the solenoid connected togethered with a 5 amp fuse in between. i touch the the two bolts on top of the solenoid at the same time with a screw driver to get the starter to turn over. when i first got it and put on the fly wheel i tryed to cold start it. i got it to fire up but then it shut off, after that it went down hill from little spark to none. starter does not crank from button

 

not sure of the kill switch locations or how to check to see if they work properly.

 

let's see.....safety interlock is on the left handlebar brake lever. make sure the brake fluid reservoir is full. check the wiring coming out of the lever's little box that has 2 wires coming out of it. now the brake light may not illuminate due to a burned out bulb, but do you hear a small "tink" when you actuate the lever? if so, the switch is working OR is the brake light illuminates, you know it's working. next, make sure the left hand red slider kill switch is in the middle. now, do you have a key? if not, remove the ignition switch and take it to a locksmith. he can make you a key for <$20 in an hour or so. worth the investment. then we'll need to confirm that the wiring on the backside of that ignition switch ain't all hacked up. fuse size is good. got to be <7 amps. i'll try to find a wiring diagram and PM it to you so you can trace it out and test it to make sure it's correct and not hacked up.

 

ok, i think we are one step closer. i just traced the brake kill switch wires down and seen the wires was spliced with wire connectors that where crossed. after i switched them around, the starter button started working, but the battery is low so i will charge it tonite and continue on my journey tomorrow. hopefully we will get some fire in the hole! i will keep u posted thanks alot.

 

looking better, hope that was it.

 

ok im back. i charged the battery and put it to the test and theres still no spark. what will be the next step in the process of elimination?

 

Does it have a tether switch on back. That switch has to be depressed.

 

Pull the pin from the cdi for kill switches. You will have to find a wire diagram for your cdi or similar. This is the easiest way to eliminate kill switches. Some of these things have way to many safety switches for my liking. Some have neural, brake, clutch, and I'm sure their are some I'm forgetting. I disabled all them on the 110 since it is auto it will not go anyware until u give it gas. Both other machines just have the neutral safety enabled.