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  #11 (permalink)  
Old 10-08-2013, 10:19 PM
Trailblazer
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I know you said that you are getting spark, however do you know that you are getting good spark? What color is the spark on the plug when you test it? It should be bright blue. If you are getting a weak spark or only sparking intermitantly it will cause that problem. Also, are you sure that you have all the wiring correct? If the kill switch isn't working correctly (assuming it has one), it won't allow the motor to run. I'd re-check all the switches and wiring and make sure that you haven't forgotten a brake switch or kill switch somewhere. Hope this helps you.
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  #12 (permalink)  
Old 10-09-2013, 05:34 AM
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Hey remove your gas cap and see if that helps sometimes a plugged tank vent will not allow fuel to flow.
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  #13 (permalink)  
Old 10-09-2013, 08:54 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by romeo73 View Post
Scooter,
I replaced the carb, so I know it is not dirty now.

Zrock,
Ok, Ill try that and Ill check the slide to make sure. Yes I have tried gas directly with throttle wide open. Like I said before, I can get it t fire up for a few seconds, but always dies right out.
As far as the air box, is that very important, as I said before, there was a rip in it, would that some how prevent the suction of the fuel into the engine if there is no airbox.

Thanks for the suggestions, keep them coming, it still is not starting.
I don't understand why this is being so difficult. Uggggh
When i used the squirt bottle on mine i actually had to keep going for about 5 min after it started and then once the engine built up some heat i never had to do it again. Pull the pin out of your cdi for the kill switch. I was having issues with intermittent spark and that fixed the problem temporary until the cdi crapped out

Since you have taken the carb right off the motor you may have created a huge vacuum leak. I had a vacuum leak on motor side connections took some red automotive RTV silicone and sealed up the connections and bolted back together. Cured vacuum leak

If you have a fuel filter take it out of the system for now. It may be partially blocked with old fuel. Spray some carb cleaner in it and let it sit and try to start without. I also put a long hose on the carb when i was having issues filled it with fuel and blew through it to force fuel into the system.

you can also use carb cleaner to start your machine. I forgot that's what i started to use until i ran out and then switched over to fuel.

Take your breather and hose right off the system for now. Its not going to make a huge difference in how it really runs and makes it easier to do thing.

The mixture screw you can do more turns than i recommended and see if you can get the plug to look wet. It took me 4 tries at cleaning my carb. Last one i ended up finding holes on one of the parts i did not realize were their..
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  #14 (permalink)  
Old 10-09-2013, 09:59 PM
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Might also be lacking compression. maybe misadjusted valves
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  #15 (permalink)  
Old 10-11-2013, 04:27 PM
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Thanks for all the tips, this forum is great. I have not got back out there yet to try these ideas, but some I have.
It is getting good spark.
The carb is new, so I believe it should be free from blockage.
The vacuum leak I guess could be a possibility, the gasket and spacer look good, but you never know, I have tried spraying ether around it while starting, no difference.
As far as the wiring, at the moment, the only thing hooked up is the power, ground and the main wires needed from the CDI and the stator, none of that safety kill crap. LOL
The valve, I checked, and they seem to be adjusted correctly.

Any more ideas, keep them coming.
I will update you as soon as I can get back out there.

Thanks again everyone.
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  #16 (permalink)  
Old 10-13-2013, 06:45 PM
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Ok, I was messing around with it a little more today. I am almost positive it has to do with possibly a vacuum leak. If I put my hand completely over the airbox side of the carb, and let a little air in or move my hand around, it sounds like it wants to start every now and then.

Ok, someone, I think zrock suggested using red rtv silicone, now between the carb and the intake tube, there is a black plasticky gasket/spacer, and between the tube and the engine, there is just a paper gasket, are you saying to use rtv instead of these, or just add rtv to these to seal it up. I will only do this temporarily, if it solves the problem, I will replace both gaskets.

Also, how do you change the position of the throttle slide, as I think this is part of my problem.

So as of now, I want to try to set the adjusting screws correctly, and the slide, so I know those are correct. What setting should these be at.

Thanks
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  #17 (permalink)  
Old 10-13-2013, 08:30 PM
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I just used Rtv on the oring side. The paper gasket was never disturbed on mine. It's a old trick that is used on rc carbs and works well. If it works for u why remove it? Gives u a little xtra protection on possible air leaks. Even if I got new I would still use Rtv
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  #18 (permalink)  
Old 10-14-2013, 10:28 AM
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their should be a screw on the side of the carb to adjust the slide up or down. Not sure what a factory setting on that will be but i usually set it by ear. Turn it in (this will raise the slide) until you hear the engine change in how it sounds when trying to start then back it off half to a full turn. You can hear the sound you are looking for by giving it a little throttle while trying to start it you will hear the change.. that usually gives me a good starting point

what you did by putting your hand over the air box is you hand was acting like a choke. limiting the air intake while the system gets some fuel moving.
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  #19 (permalink)  
Old 10-14-2013, 10:41 PM
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If it's trying to start at all when you cover the intake then it is likely that you are getting too much air and not enough fuel. It's still possible that you aren't getting enough compression in the combustion chamber to atomize the fuel enough for ignition. That could be caused by several things--bad valves or miss adjusted valves, bad piston rings, or may be as simple as a bad gasket on the top of the motor. If you have checked all this and you know that all these areas are good, my next step would be to adjust the carb. Turn the idle screw and the fuel/air screw all the way in and then back each one out 2 and a hallf full turns. This is a standard starting point when tuning a carb. Then try to start the motor. If you are still getting too much air, cover about 1/2 to 3/4 of the air intake with your hand and try to start it again. If it starts, or sounds closer to starting, then you have verified that it is getting too much air. If you have an air screw, turn it in about 1/4 turn at a time until it starts, then adjust the air screw and the idle screw until you have it tuned.
If this doesn't get it started, then it may be a misadjusted choke plate. It's rare that it is the choke plate unless someone has removed it at some point though. Let me know if this is helpful and works for you.
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  #20 (permalink)  
Old 10-17-2013, 08:51 PM
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William Sy
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zrock View Post
I just used Rtv on the oring side. The paper gasket was never disturbed on mine. It's a old trick that is used on rc carbs and works well. If it works for u why remove it? Gives u a little xtra protection on possible air leaks. Even if I got new I would still use Rtv
Not stealing the thread I apologize but to Zrock.
Regarding Seal on Carb to intake, Would you still use the o-ring in the carb if I used rtv and a paper gasket to get a good seal.?

Romeo, have you had any progress? I hope you are getting close.
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Old 10-17-2013, 08:51 PM
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70cc, atv, lash, tomoto, valve



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