Well i couldnt find a build/tear down thread for any of the E22 engines so i figured id make one. this is a true E22 honda engine with clone covers.[/COLOR]

well here goes...
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First i removed flywheel side casing. then i removed tensioners for the starter chain giving me enough slack to remove the starter.
FLYWHEEL SIDE
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TENSIONERS/CHAIN/STARTER REMOVED
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I then removed the valve cover, the side cover, and cam chain cover[/COLOR]

VALVE COVER
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SIDE COVER CENTER BOLT HOLDS CAM SPROCKET COVER ON OPPOSITE SIDE
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not sure if i should post so manny pics lol but i have most of the tear down in piece by piece pictures. i kno some people with older computers would hate loading this thread if i do so

ALL PICTURES ALSO HERE WITH SOME VIDEOS

 

Ok continuing on......
TIMING MARKS
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ANYONE KNOW WHAT THE MARKS MEAN?

Remove these three cam sprocket bolts then gently remove sprocket allowing it to drop into the cylinder head. Don't worry it will fit through. Then loosen and remove the rocker covers/caps to expose the valve/valvespring/rocer end and loosen the lock nut and back out the valve lash stud untill there is slack in the rocker arm IF YOU ARE REMOVING YOUR CAM THAT IS

CAM SPROCKET
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CAM SPROCKET/CHAIN
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CAPS
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LASH BOLTCAM00941_zpsc34fc5ec.jpg?t=1367284781
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Once you have all the bolts removed you can then reomve the cyilinder head

CYLINDER HEAD/VALVES
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Then remove the small bolt on the side of the cylinder head and remove the cam chain guide wheel
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CAM SPROCKER/GUIDE
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CAM CHAIN VIEW DOWN CYILINDER INTO CASE
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You can then pull your cylinder up but not off as to prevent fighting with the rings later you can but it is not necessary. also loosen the head/cylinder bolts so they're ready for later

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ill continue later on. right now im trying to figure out the best way to remove the magnetic flywheel

 

<embed width="600" height="361" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowfullscreen="true" allowscriptaccess="always" wmode="transparent" src="http://static.photobucket.com/player.swf?file=http://vid1365.photobucket.com/albums/r746/The_Mechanic89/E22 TEARDOWN/CAM00989_zps3ea0638e.mp4">

this is the problem with my trans 2nd to 3rd jamms

 

My parts atv came with a basket case engine so I've taken some of the head off and the trans cover off. I haven't had to get it actually running though.

 

well the engine and trans is disassembled haven't had enough time to continue the thread yet. still i'm unsure as to why it jambs up i flipped the shift forks as they were worn on opposite sides of each other.
wouldn't mind a parts bottom end that blew on the motor side with an intact trans. my plan is to taper the edges of the straight cut gears n taper the engagement pins on the gears for ease of shifting between gears.
i think the issue is more or less in the internal shifting armatures or the shift fork spool. so i will try my best with whats here and see how it goes. i've got a feeling ill be buying a spare E22 possibly a clone for parts or use.

 

that looks VERY similar to an old 88 Yamaha Moto4 100cc that I used to own.

 

hmm ill have to check that out may be another i can use parts from but mine is a genuine honda E22 engine theres tons o companies using this engine and slappin their bands on them basically. Honda's pattent on their early engines ran out so everyone starting making them including this engine the E22