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110 CC quad - no spark

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Old 01-17-2012, 08:29 PM
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Default 110 CC quad - no spark

Seems to be a common thing with these quads. We just bought two for our kids for Christmas, they have taken them out three times. Well today as she was riding to the trail it just died. I got it back to the garage and there is no spark, so I tried to switch out parts from the one that worked and no luck. CDI, Plug wire with coil attached, new fuse. Whats wierd is that it will get spark sometimes, but after about 5-10 seconds of cranking it stops. It doesn't appear to be a strong spark, guess I should check the spark on the good one. It is a 5 pin CDI, but like I said I switched them and no luck. Any ideas?
 
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Old 01-19-2012, 01:31 AM
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You'll need a meter. They are cheap and a powerful tool if wielded properly.

Following is the generic procedure for troubleshooting 5 pin CDIs. But since your "no spark" problem occurs intermittently this makes it a bit tougher. You need to only pay attention to measurements taken while there is "no spark", and there in lies the problem. You need to establish a regimen where you *know* there would be no spark while taking measurements even though you can't simultaneously verify that there isn't a spark (because, for example, the CDI is disconnected).

Here is the procedure:

Is this a picture of your CDI?


Assuming the answer is yes, the first thing to do is eliminate all kill switches and kill switch wiring:

Method 1) Unplug the CDI and remove the kill switch pin in the CDI connector on the wiring harness. The pin is held in with a spring tab on the pin itself. You'll have to probe into the connector and push this tab in order to extract the pin. Plug the CDI back in (kill switch wire dangling) and see if you have spark.

Method 2) Unplug the CDI. Turn on the ignition switch and set all kill switches to the run position. Use a meter to measure resistance in of the kill switch pin in the wiring harness connector to engine/frame ground. If the reistance is infinite on the 100K ohm scale then your kill switches/kill switch wiring are OK. If you measure zero ohms then you have a kill switch/wiring issue.

The other inputs your CDI needs to make spark are AC Ignition Power, and the Trigger signal. Do the following:

1) Unplug the CDI. In the wiring connector measure the resistance of the AC Ignition Power pin to the Ground pin. You should see 400 ohms or so. What do you measure?

2) Measure the resistance of the Timing/trigger pin to the ground pin. You should measure 150 ohms or so. What do you measure?

3) Leave the CDI unplugged. Set your meter to measure AC volts on the 100 volt scale. Measure the voltage on the AC Ignition Power pin to the ground pin while cranking the engine. You should see 40 to 80 volts AC while the engine is cranking. What do you measure?

4) Set your meter to measure AC volts on the lowest scale you have. Ideally this would be 2 volts but many meters don't go down this low. In that case use the lowest scale you have. Measure the voltage on the Timing Trigger pin to the Ground pin while cranking the engine. You should 0.2 t0 0.4 volts AC. What do you measure?

Now for measuring the output side of the CDI:

A) Leave the CDI unplugged. In the CDI wiring connector measure the resistance of the Ignition Coil pin to the ground pin. You should measure less than 1 ohm (but not zero ohms). What do you measure?

B) Plug the CDI back in. Set your meter to measure AC volts on the 20 volt scale. Set all kill switches to the run position. Crank the engine while measuring the voltage on the Igntition Coil pin to ground. Poke through the insulation of the wire if you can't probe the connector.

Caution: There should be moderately high voltage spikes on this wire. Make sure your fingers are not part of the circuitry. Don't touch the probe lead tips while doing this test.

What you should see is a lot of random numbers with lots of zero values as well. This is because the meter may catch all or part of the spark event voltage, with a lot of nothing in between. Describe what you see.

Note: Using a meter to measure this point produces highly variable results depending on the meter. What you really need is an oscilloscope, but most always a meter is all that is available. We have to do the best we can with what's available. Describe the meter results as accurately as you can - there is information there to chew on....
 
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Old 01-22-2012, 03:32 PM
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I think I found the problem, I took the stator cover off and there was oil in there, so I cleaned everything off and it started fine. So she took it out again today and after riding I took the cover off again and once again there is oil in there. Where would it come from? I'm going to pull the magneto to see if I can find it, anything I need to know? Its not alot of oil but I can't see where its coming from.
 
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