Thank you for the information. I will take a look today after work. It weird the only thing I did before it stopped working was adjust the throttle lock in for my daughter. Would that have something to do with it?

It shifts but at sometimes it is tight to get into gear and the lever will shift out of gear but the tav is still in gear.

I will take a look. Thanks again.

 

Turn on the ignition switch. Set all kill switches to the run position.

Follow the fat red wire from the battery to the starter solenoid input screw post. Identify the fat red wire from the other solenoid post that goes to the starter motor.

Set the brake, and make sure you are in neutral before proceeding. You are about to bypass the start safety interlocks.

Using the shank of a screwdriver, short the two solenoid screw posts together. Don't mind a few sparks...

1) Does the starter motor turn?
2) Does the quad start up?

When you apply 12 volts across the two small wires on the starter solenoid it drives a coil, which makes a magnetic field, which sucks down a steel plate, which shorts those two screw posts together just like you are doing with the screwdriver. That hooks the battery directly to the starter motor.

So if the starter motor turns when you short the screw posts then your battery and starter are good. Then we can start testing the solenoid and the circuitry that drives the solenoid input wires. You'll need a meter for that.

If the starter doesn't turn then your battery is discharged, your battery is bad, your starter motor is bad, you have a bad connection, or your engine is frozen (the last is the least likely of all the possibilities). You'll need a meter to proceed down this path also.

 

Those two things should be completely unrelated.

 

thanks lynn well itook my starter motor out and hooked it to my car battery and it spun, so i suspect it to be the battery im gonna test it tomorrow but idk what setting i should use on my dmm?

 

Maybe its not your battery. The tests outlined in the last post will tell give some clues to this. Another thing you can do if you think that only your battery is bad is to jump your quad battery to your car with jumper cables. Then try and start the quad. Of course if you have more than one problem it is a little tougher to diagnose.

This will measure the battery directly: Set your meter to DC volts using the 20 volt scale. Measure the battery voltage right on the two battery posts while jumping across the solenoid posts with the screwdriver as outlined before. You should have at least 11.5 volts at the battery and the starter motor turning.

 

wow so i got this quad with a clogged carburator, i just jumped started it and tried the electric start and it started right up, thanks so much guys for the help, the kid i got it from said it would die when you accelerated, i cleaned the carb and hit the gas and it was screaming loud, im so happy i came here to get the help i needed, now to just some performance parts and reinstalling the kickstarter

 

I'm glad you got it running .

 

well when i got the quad the auto choke wasn't connected so i connected it and it wouldn't idle im going to try tomorrow to get it to idle without the auto-choke, im assuming it wasn't connected because its broken.. if i have a 2 amp battery charger can i connect my battery to charge it?

 

Wait a second... This doesn't sound right.

When cold the bystarter valve (autochoke) opens up an extra fuel passage to make the fuel/air mixture richer (more fuel for the same amount of air). This is backwards from the standard "choke" method where a plate is used to starve the carburetor of air (less air for the same amount of fuel).

On a working quad, when you start up the quad the electrical wires to the bystarter valve heat up a wax pellet, which expands, and pushes closed the valve that opens up that extra fuel passage. So when you say the autochoke is unplugged then it is always and forever in the enrichened fuel mode. So the classic symptoms would be: Starts up great and runs progressively worse as the quad warms up. But that is not what you are saying.

So if your quad runs better when warm, and the autochoke (bystarter) unplugged then that says you are running way lean which is being somewhat compensated by the bystarter choke being in the enrichen mode (i.e. it is unplugged). It would be the same as someone with a standard air plate choke saying my quad only runs with the choke applied. That indicates carburetion problems, not choke problems.

Another possibility is an air leak in the intake manifold. GY6 engines are notorious for air leaks through a crack in the rubber manifold that is often hard to see. Spray carburetor cleaner around the intake manifold while the engine is running. Any change in the engine speed or sound indicates a leak.

Yes, but do not use a charger at anything higher than 2 amps. But this isn't going to save a bad battery. If your battery is bad you're going to have to change it. But if you do, be sure to also check the charging system so that your new battery doesn't also go dead, sit around that way, and get get ruined...

 

im going to disconnect the auto choke to see if it idles..