Hi Tim,

My comments embedded in blue...

The AC Ignition Power wire goes to the stator through another set of connections near where the stator wires emerge from the engine through the side cover. Find the AC Ignition Power wire at this set of connectors. It is probably blk/red, but see what the color is at the CDI pin. It will be the same as it is at the CDI pin.

Disconnect the AC Ignition Power wire and measure into the stator to engine ground.

1) Is the resistance still the same (280 ohms)?
2) Is the AC voltage while cranking still the same (61 mV AC)?

If so then it looks like your stator is bad.

 

The ignition power voltage was 61V, not 61mV!

Ditz (come by the nickname honestly)

 

Well then that is a different story .

61 volts is OK for ignition power. So we've got trigger signal, power. and ground to the CDI, yet there is no output to the coil. Now the finger points at the CDI, which I believe you have on order. It seems the best course now is to wait for the new CDI. If that doesn't work then we can regroup and dig in deeper.

 

Thanks for all the help LynnEdwards. After eroniously sending me a voltage regulator, the parts place finally delivered our CDI yesterday and success has been achieved. It runs. It is obvious that it needs adjustments because it has to run on about 3/4 choke. Once it is warm it idles well but getting it warm is a bear.

The CDI was in fact faulty but it seems as though the kill switch does not reset very consistently. It is the type that has to be pushed in to reset but I usually have to do it 3 or 4 times to get it to start. Is there any harm in turning off the key instead of using the kill switch? I may try to figure out the switch contact arrangement and use some sort of more durable switch. Unfortunately, the kill switch, throttle and starter switch are all one assembly on this quad. I considered mounting a snap switch somewhere else for killing the engine. Any ideas?

 

I'm glad the CDI is now working...

All the kill switches are wired in parallel (kind of side by side). This way if any one of the kill switches are set to the "kill" position then the quad engine stops. So if you have a defective kill switch that fails in the "kill" mode then the only way to keep it from killing all the time is to disconnect it. In the case of you handlebar kill switch look for the kill switch wire and cut it at the handlebar wiring harness. Often this is a black/white wire. To be sure, what are the wiring harness side colors of the wires that attach to your ignition switch? If the kill switch wire color can be identified here then we can look for the same wire at the handlebar switch connections.

There is no difference in operation of the kill switch part of the ignition switch or the handlebar kill switch. Both work the same way - as does any remote tether kill switch or remote control module kill switch if your quad has these.

If you add your own kill switch keep in mind that the switch has high voltage on it when the engine is turning and the kill switch is in the "run" position. So don't install a system where fingers get into the wiring when attempting to kill the engine [for example - who needs a kill switch? I'll just twist these two wires together whenever I want to stop the engine...]

 

I want to thank LynnEdwards for the work he has done with finding the electrical values for trouble shooting no spark issues.

My TAO TAO 250D quit a couple of weeks back and I an in the process of trying to get it running again. I replaced the CDI and the ignition coil this morning but still got a weak/no spark. When I tested the system following LE's guide I see that I am getting less than 5 volts AC (mine is a AC system) from the ignition power. Which is less than a few days ago when it read near 30 volts AC. I am assuming that means my stator main is bad. I have a new 8 coil stator ordered just now from China.

Incidentally for any of those needing to replace your magneto stator. The easiest way is to pull the plastic footrest assembly from the left side of the ATV. There are 8 screws and bolts to do this. Than remove the gear shift lever, and the cover. You need to remove the cover to the starter (3bolts) and the gear assembly to access one bolt that holds the larger magneto cover, as well as the outside bolts around the covers face. You do not need to remove the small chrome face cover (4 bolts) that is inset into the larger cover.

The cover might be a bit sticky and need to be lightly rocked away from the starter motor and a flat screwdriver inserted between cover and engine to equalize the pull.

I hope the new stator fixes my problem. It will be a couple of weeks before I get it I imagine.

 

Put in the new stator this afternoon and the bike starts and runs now. Hope the problem is fixed for awhile.

 

4 years later and this thread is still fixing the Chinese 4 wheelers. Thanks Lynn, not sure if you're still around but 2>

 

My daughter's TaoTao 250D is doing the same exact thing...let's see if this fixes it..