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  #1 (permalink)  
Old 01-24-2013, 04:35 PM
Weekend Warrior
2012 blue eagle china atv
 
Join Date: Dec 2012
Posts: 18
Default 110 china atv dont fire

i bought a brand new 110 china 4 wheeler took it out of the crate put it together and it wont fire, it would not even crank over when i got it, but i rewired the solenoid and now it cranks over but still wont spark the plug, i bypassed all the safety switches and unplugged the remote kill module,i have replaced the stator 2 times with brand new ones, replaced the cdi (5 pin) 2 times with new ones, replaced the ignition coil,i have been reading on your forums and taking readings with my meter, here is what i got
cdi unplugged ac ignition power pin to ground 468 ohms
cdi unplugged resistance timing trigger to ground-140 ohms
cdi unplugged ac ignition power pin to ground 50 volts
cdi unplugged timing trigger pin to ground cranking .042 volts ac
cdi unplugged ignition coil pin to ground .5 ohms
cdi plugged up ignition coil pin to ground ac volts .01 volts when cranking
any help will be appreciated, this thing is driving me insane.
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  #2 (permalink)  
Old 01-24-2013, 06:20 PM
Range Rover
1980 HONDA ATC185 (no 's')
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: only state mentioned it the bible
Posts: 194
Default

Ok i'll ask so maybe you have a chance to answer before Lynn gets here (dude is wicked smart at wiring).
How many pins does your cdi have?

Also you said " i bypassed all the safety switches" and "but i rewired the solenoid". I will bet you money he will need to know what exactly you did.

I personally have no clue on ignition systems, but these are almost always the first questions Lynn asks.
__________________
I RIDE 'EM UGLY BECAUSE I HAVE YET TO SEE CHROME AND SHINY PAINT HELP GET ANYONE THROUGH THE MUD!

I've decided electronics must work on smoke, cause every time I let it out the part quits working.
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  #3 (permalink)  
Old 01-25-2013, 08:02 AM
Weekend Warrior
2012 blue eagle china atv
 
Join Date: Dec 2012
Posts: 18
Default

its a 5 pin cdi, i un plugged the safety switches and plugged the wires together on the harness side.
also to get it cranking i wired the black/white wire from the key switch to the green ground wire,
but if i unwire them and short the solenoid it cranks over but still dont fire that way either so i dont think thats the problem.
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  #4 (permalink)  
Old 01-25-2013, 08:10 AM
Weekend Warrior
2012 blue eagle china atv
 
Join Date: Dec 2012
Posts: 18
Default

any ideas?
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  #5 (permalink)  
Old 01-25-2013, 01:09 PM
Range Rover
1980 HONDA ATC185 (no 's')
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: only state mentioned it the bible
Posts: 194
Default

"i wired the black/white wire from the key switch to the green ground wire"
Ok, I'm not sure why you hacked wires on a new quad but looking around at Lynn's old posts it seems you have the bike wired to 'kill'. I found this reply of his
"One wire should have 12 volts on it all the time (usually a red wire).
Another wire should have 12 volts only when the switch is turned "on".

If you have 4 wires on the ignition switch, the other two wires are ground (usually green) and kill (usually blk/wht). Those two wires get shorted together when the ignition switch is turned off"

I'm not sure why yours only tries to crank with them connected. What color wires you have at your key switch (cause may not be typical)?

Also, just cause I'm an eternal promoter of the KISS method, you did check the fuse with the continuity beeper before you started wiring right?
__________________
I RIDE 'EM UGLY BECAUSE I HAVE YET TO SEE CHROME AND SHINY PAINT HELP GET ANYONE THROUGH THE MUD!

I've decided electronics must work on smoke, cause every time I let it out the part quits working.
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  #6 (permalink)  
Old 01-25-2013, 04:03 PM
Weekend Warrior
2012 blue eagle china atv
 
Join Date: Dec 2012
Posts: 18
Default

the black/white wire i wired to green wire isnt coming off ignition switch its coming from handlebar switch,
fuse is good, that was the first thing i checked, the ignition switch has 4 wires red, black , black/white, and green, ok black is 12 volts switched, red is 12 volts all the time, green is ground and black/white is ground with key off,
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  #7 (permalink)  
Old 01-25-2013, 07:35 PM
Range Rover
1980 HONDA ATC185 (no 's')
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: only state mentioned it the bible
Posts: 194
Default

"fuse is good, that was the first thing i checked"
I figured as much but always ask.

"the ignition switch has 4 wires red, black , black/white, and green, ok black is 12 volts switched, red is 12 volts all the time, green is ground and black/white is ground with key off"
Yea almost, (assuming usual color codes) the blk/white wire grounds the AC voltage powering the cdi when the key is off.

"the black/white wire i wired to green wire isnt coming off ignition switch its coming from handlebar switch,"

Ok now I'm confused if by 'handlebar switch you mean the start button. Then there is no way that should work. Because ground doesn't engage the solenoid power does.
If you ment the kill switch that works by grounding the AC power to your cdi and you just wired the AC power to ground. I don't understand how your bike is not wired to 'kill'.
__________________
I RIDE 'EM UGLY BECAUSE I HAVE YET TO SEE CHROME AND SHINY PAINT HELP GET ANYONE THROUGH THE MUD!

I've decided electronics must work on smoke, cause every time I let it out the part quits working.
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  #8 (permalink)  
Old 01-26-2013, 09:45 AM
Weekend Warrior
2012 blue eagle china atv
 
Join Date: Dec 2012
Posts: 18
Default

handlebar switch i meant was the on off headlight starter button switch the black/white wire coming from there
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  #9 (permalink)  
Old 01-26-2013, 09:54 AM
Weekend Warrior
2012 blue eagle china atv
 
Join Date: Dec 2012
Posts: 18
Default

when i got it, it wouldnt crank over, first thing i done was put on a brand new harness, didnt change anything, so i found that if i tie that b/w wire to green ground wire then it would crank over, but still didnt fire so i unplugged the lockout module, and unplugged all 3 safety switches and connected the plugs together, still dont fire, replaced stator, replaced cdi, replaced coil, each time checking for fire but never got a spark,
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  #10 (permalink)  
Old 01-26-2013, 11:47 AM
Electrical Expert
Likes High Voltage In The Tub!
Garage is empty, add now
 
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Tracy, California, USA
Posts: 3,230
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by DannyBoat View Post
... i bypassed all the safety switches and unplugged the remote kill module....
I need some clarification here. There is only *one* safety switch - that is your brake switch. It is used to keep the starter motor from cranking unless the brakes are applied.

Are you referring to that? Or are you possibly referring to kill switches? Kill switches are not safety switches (and vice versa). They are completely separate functions and not related to each other in any way.

So what exactly did you bypass?

Quote:
Originally Posted by DannyBoat View Post
....i have been reading on your forums and taking readings with my meter, here is what i got
cdi unplugged ac ignition power pin to ground 468 ohms
cdi unplugged resistance timing trigger to ground-140 ohms
cdi unplugged ac ignition power pin to ground 50 volts
cdi unplugged timing trigger pin to ground cranking .042 volts ac
cdi unplugged ignition coil pin to ground .5 ohms
cdi plugged up ignition coil pin to ground ac volts .01 volts when cranking
any help will be appreciated, this thing is driving me insane.
The trigger voltage looks really low, but before we look into that you left out one of the most important test steps:

Quote:

...the first thing to do is eliminate all kill switches and kill switch wiring:

Method 1) Unplug the CDI and remove the kill switch pin in the CDI connector on the wiring harness. The pin is held in with a spring tab on the pin itself. You'll have to probe into the connector and push this tab in order to extract the pin. Plug the CDI back in (kill switch wire dangling) and see if you have spark.

Method 2) Unplug the CDI. Turn on the ignition switch and set all kill switches to the run position. Use a meter to measure resistance in of the kill switch pin in the wiring harness connector to engine/frame ground. If the resistance is infinite on the 100K ohm scale then your kill switches/kill switch wiring are OK. If you measure zero ohms then you have a kill switch/wiring issue.
So what results do you get for the kill switch tests above? If the kill switch pin to the CDI is grounded then you've killed the spark.
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Old 01-26-2013, 11:47 AM
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Tags
110, 110cc, atv, blue, brakes, crank, diagram, dont, eagle, fire, firing, jump, starter, wheeler, wiring, wont, work, yamaha



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