Ok so im new to all this hooplaa. I recently picked up an Old dinli helix from my friend to fix up. And ever since I have gotten it there is no spark coming from the spark plug. Got a new plug and it didnt work. Got a new coil, and it didnt work. So i went online to research a bit. And i came across http://www.dinlisales.com/docs/Dinli...em%20Tests.pdf which states that certain cdi outputs should read certain volts when you test them, and i'm assuming when you test them your trying to kick start. But it seems as though my black wire is getting much higher volts then my orange wire (my orange one connects directly to my ignition coil.)Is my cdi unit kick the bucket or could it be something else?

 

I have never seen a Dinli so I don't know the answer to your questions. Thanks for posting the testing procedure link. I haven't seen that before either.

If you don't have an electric start then I would also assume that you would measure the AC voltages while kick starting. Whether the engine turns with electrical power or from you burning carbohydrates doesn't matter. It just seems to me that the starter motor would be able to maintain a more constant speed for more repeatable results.

So what about the stator resistance tests? The only two you need worry about is the CDI AC supply winding (They call it the charge coil), and the Trigger signal wire (they call it the pulsar pickup wire). The other two are just low voltage high current outputs for charging the battery and running the lights. What resistances do you measure? The most accurate way to measure these resistances is from the CDI connector. That way you measure both the stator windings and the wiring harness together. If you get proper resistances then the Stator and Harness are exhonerated.

Also be sure to measure the AC output voltage of the "charge coil" when disconnected from the CDI. What do you measure for the the AC output voltage?

Did you do the kill switch tests? It looks like the black/white wire at the CDI must be grounded or you will get no spark. Use you meter to see if this is so.

The idea here is that the stator can be measured with a meter. If the stator measures OK, you don't have a kill switch issue, and because you've already changed the coil/plug, that leaves the CDI.

 

Ok i'll be sure to measure the stator ohms tomorrow morning. I don't exactly understand about how to tether the kill switch. Do they mean just ground the thing? Also if it turns it out its my cdi unit can i buy a 5 pin one instead of this exact replacement CDI [F020184] - $69.30 : Reliable Go-Karts, The Online Store That Has Almost Everything! it has the same input/out puts im guessing as my unit. And its about 50 bucks cheaper. The website that I got some other things from stated that all 5pin cdi units are interchangable. This could be complete bologna. Thanks so much for your input. (past and future)

 

I think so. From my take on the link info the Dinli quads need a ground to the kill switch input in order to enable spark. Leaving the connection open would kill spark. This is similar to Eton quads, and is exactly backwards from generic chinese quads where you ground the kill switch connection to kill spark.

So make sure to try your present CDI kill switch wire both ways. See if you have spark with this wire grounded, or open. Maybe this problem is a simple loose/shorted wire somewhere.

And definately still measure the stator ohms....

There was a note in there that the kill switch connection is reversed. Once again I don't know anything about these CDIs but I'm guessing that this means this CDI is like the generic chinese CDIs where the kill switch connection must be open for spark, and shorted to ground to kill spark.

If you look back a few months you'll find I advocated to someone to try a generic chinese 5 pin CDI to replace a weird 5 pin CDI on some other chinese quad. Long story short - it worked, but only at idle. It bogged badly at anything other than idle. The chinese CDI was for a four stroke while the target quad was a two stroke.

Is your Dinli a two stroke? I should have known better. A two stroke burns oil, and obviously the burn rate for a gas/oil fuel mixture has to be different than straight gas. And that would affect the igntition timing advance curves, and therefore the CDI design. You live and learn. I won't make that mistake again .

 

Here are two links for the 2 stroke versus 4 stroke CDI thread: The second link was continued from the first under a new subject line...

http://forums.atvconnection.com/chin...0cc-atv-5.html

http://forums.atvconnection.com/chin...bogs-down.html

 

Ok so i may be in luck and it may not be the Cdi at all. I went through all the steps the website told me and the Ohms are good, almost exact. The only thing is my ignition wires are giving me resitances of around 3.5 does this still idicate a continuous circuit? Also when I test the Second on position with the red to brown im gettin infinite resistance. I think i may have just found my problem. When I get time im going to replace this wire and report back

 

The ohms test is measuring the stator for proper operation, not the CDI. So the stator measures good so far, but a more definitive test would include AC voltage measurements for the AC power and the trigger signal (the two windings you measured).

The other ohms tests where you find descrepancies (I think) is measuring the ignition switch. You measured 3.5 what? Ohms? KiloOhms? MegOhms? Was that the black and Green wires? These sould like ground and something else - like a kill switch wire perhaps.

The second test involving red and brown wires sound more like switched 12 volts (if I'm not off base, and you are measuring the ignition switch). That should not be open according to the info from the web site you gave.