My nephew has a 70cc Wildfire atv. He broke the key off in the switch and they had someone install a new one. When they picked it up from the repair shop the battery was dead but the man started it with a battery charger. (and i think he straight wired it) Now with a new fully charged battery, we get nothing, no cranking or anything. I can turn the engine over by putting an screwdriver on the bolts on the starter relay, but when I do this i get no spark. I know the spark plug is good. Please help.... It's to late to take back to the repair shop, it sat for months waiting one his father to reinstall the plastics. I am pretty sure the spark plug, cdi, and magneto are fine since it ran at the repair shop. How can I straight wire it just to get it to run? sorry to be so long winded. again, please help.

 

sounds like the wiring is a little wrong or it has a blown fuse. try this: turn the switch to the "on" position, then jump the solenoid like you did. make sure the brakes are on and that it is in neutral (if applicable). but make sure the brake is set so it doesn't take off when it starts. if it starts then, you're down to a fuse and/or a bad wiring issue on the switch. i agree with you about the condition of the cdi, stator, etc.....that stuff should be fine. let us know!

 

I agree with Jaster94 100%.

 

I tried this already, with not much luck. I talked to my nephews father and he said the repairman straight wired it first and it ran, so he bought a switch and had it installed. We have got nothing from that point. Can anyone explain how I can straight wire it and I will go from that point... tks

 

sorry, i'm not understanding the concept of straight wire. i take it as some form of bypassing all of the safety switches and shutdowns.

 

while we sit here and troubleshoot this, hit F5 every now and then to refresh the page and look at replies.
when the switch is "on", and you apply the left brake handle, do you hear a little "tink"? listen real close when you do this, that's the sound of the safety brake switch. OR, do you see the brake light illuminate? when the switch is on, do you have any electricity with the charged battery?

 

thanks for your help, I have replaced the fuse. The safety switch on the brake lever is clicking so I think it is working. The plastics are not on the atv at this time so the lights are not hooked up. When I say "straight wire" I guess I mean bypass the on off switches (the key and the on off switch on the handlebar) I read of another website that If I disconnected the middle wire on the cdi (I think it is black and white) that would bypass the safety switches. It is not going to be ridden like this I just want to get it running.

 

i'm not an electrical expert like LynnEdwards. so the wires on the CDI i do not know about. i'm currently working on a 110cc with multiple problems. all i'm doing is following the electricity to where it's supposed to go. battery to fuse to handlebars to switches to starter/etc....
so let's recap and correct me if i'm wrong:
charged battery
no electricity to ignition switch=no electricity to starter
can jump solenoid but with no spark.


i'd say, now, it may be in the keyed ignition switch if the jumped solenoid turns/cranks the engine but gives no spark. if the brake switch interlock is satisfied, and it sounds like it is based upon your response, the kill switch is grounding out to kill it so it may be the run switch or possibly the keyed switch.

 

LynnEdwards would be the guy to talk to about this, BUT, if you search through the chinese section of this forum, you'll see all of the advice he gives out over and over again about testing the ignition switches, off/run/off handlebar switches, CDIs, stators, and all kinds of things. it'll take a while to read it, but it is well worth it. he walks you through each step and it'll get you to your goal. i often cruise his electrical write ups quite often and they always help me out. so, i'm just trying to help you also....

 

There is some confusion here about starter interlock safety switches and kill switches, so let's differentiate those because they are not the same:

1) Starter Interlock Safety Switches: If you are able to start up a quad in gear there is a danger that the quad will lurch forward and hit something. That is dangerous. There is always an interlock system of some sort to prevent this. Same thing on your car. You cannot start up a car in drive - that could be disasterous. Instead you have to be in neutral or park, or have the clutch pushed in, etc.

Most chinese quads have a brake switch interlock. Some have a clutch or neutral interlock. On the most common "brake" interlock system the control voltage that feeds the starter solenoid activating coil comes through the brake switch. Thus you cannot crank the starter motor unless the brake is applied, and the brake switch is working [and the fuse has to be good, and the ignition switch wired up right, and the associated interconnect wiring intact, etc.]

2) Kill Switches: For an engine to start and run you need spark (obviously). The ignition system on most chinese quads (and all quads with the 5 pin CDI) run on moderately high voltage AC power that comes from the stator. On these quads the ignition system has absolutely nothing to do with 12 volts. You spin the engine, the stator generates AC power to the CDI, and the quad starts up. It is just like your lawn mower -you spin the engine and it starts up - no battery, starter motor, or anything 12 volts needed. All the 12 volt battery on a quad does is provide power to spin the engine and maybe run the lights, but you could also spin the engine with a pull rope (like you lawn mower again), or a kick start lever.

Once you start up a quad that has an AC powered ignition system you need some way to shut it down. There is an input pin to the CDI that, when grounded, kills the spark generation and the engine dies. Note that simply disconnecting 12 volt power will not stop the engine because it doesn't need 12 volts to run - it only needs 12 volts to spin the engine till it starts up.

The "kill" input pin to the CDI is the middle "blk/wht" wire you described. If you disconnect this pin you will not be able to shut off the quad. You could take out the battery, pull out the fuse, it will still keep running. Ground the kill pin at the CDI and the engine will die. But be careful. There is high voltage on the CDI pin whenever the engine is turning. If you go to ground the kill pin manually and your fingers get in the circuit it will knock you on your butt. The procedure is to take a firmly grounded wire with insulated pliers and apply it to the CDI kill pin.

Note that this kill pin stuff is *not* a safety switch of any kind. It has nothing to do with whether the starter turns or not. If you ground the kill pin on the CDI the starter motor will turn just fine, but it won't start up of course since there won't be any spark.

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So here is what I would do:

Unplug the ignition switch. It has been worked on recently, and this test will get it completely out of the picture. Set all your kill switches to the "run" position (handlebar, tether pull cord if equipped, unplug remote start module if equipped). Note that 1/2 of the 2 section ignition switch is a kill switch also, but since you've unplugged it you've already put that into the "run" position.

Jump the solenoid screw posts to spin the starter motor like you did before. Does the quad start up?

If not, do you get spark?

That's a start, but for the next steps you'll need a meter.