I would like to ask a question concerning my 86 250r. I bought the atc which was not stock..actually with quit a few mods. The performance is top notch so no problems there, only thing that sort of bothers me is the clutch, which was replaced with heavy duty clutch plates from what the original owner told me. Problem is with the clutch engaged and in gear I still get some dragging going on. Its actually hard to find neutral when coming to a complete stop with the engine running. Once engine is stopped..no problem finding neutral then. While riding the bike normally..clutch is awsome! very tight, no slippage of any sort, its just at the start with bike running and engine in gear.
I've tried to adjust the clutch cable down at the engine but really has no effect on the dragging...can anyone suggest what I should do? I've heard of a Honda oem clutch update off a 89 trx250r which will replace the old style clutch push rod system but I'm not sure if this will fix my problem or not.
Thanks for any suggestions here

 

When was the last time you changed the oil? What did it look like. If it was grey and stinky then you need to replace your clutch. If the oil looked good maybe the clutch springs are weak. Were they replaced when the previous owner did the plates? Also your clutch cable may be worn out. Hope this helps.

 

Thanks for the reply. Well I just got the atc about a week ago so I havent really done anything to it like changing the oil. I will make that my first step changing the oil. The previous owner said he changed the oil sometimes even on a weekly basis depending on riding conditions and I do remember him saying something about a greyness to the oil sometimes so you may be right. He did say that the clutch cable was new but I noticed that he installed a Oneil Easy Clutch inline on the cable too, maybe this too is a culprit? if the springs are weak does this lead to the dragging that I'm experiencing if so is this a fairly easy fix? thanks again!

Oh btw..can you recommend a good gear oil for the case for me to use?

 

From your description, I would say that your basket is notched. That's usually the problem when the clutch won't fully disengage while the engine is running. It's easy to find neutral while the engine is off because the crank isn't spinning the clutch, which forces the tabs on the plates into the notches. Yes, the clutch is spinning when the engine is running, regardless of whether you're in gear or not. I'm not insulting your intelligence, but a lot of people think it doesn't spin while it's in neutral. My suggestion? Pop the clutch cover off, take the pressure plate and clutch plates out, and look at the fingers on the basket. More than likely, you'll see grooves. If so, you have two options. The quick fix is to remove the basket and hand file the fingers until the notches disappear. This will fix the dragging issue, but it creates another problem. Now you'll have a lot of space between the clutch plate tabs and the basket's fingers, which will increase drivetrain lash, which you'll feel when you let off the throttle. Plus, the notches will eventually show up again. The best solution is to get a Hinson basket and be done. Yes, it's more expensive, but you'll never have the same problem again.

 

Thanks for the help alot, I've actually learned from what you told me about how the clutch operates, it really makes alot of sense as this has to be the problem. Is pulling the clutch cover off a pretty easy task along with the pressure plate and discs? I've looked into the Hinson basket and it looks to be a very heavy duty basket as you say. I priced it at $200 but if it is going to fix it..worth every penny. First I will take a look at the stock basket and see what is going on. Can this mod be done with the engine still in frame?

 

I'm glad that I can help. Yes, it's easy to pull the clutch cover off and replace parts while the engine is in the frame. The first thing you need to do is remove the kick starter and drain the coolant because the water pump is on the clutch cover. There is a small bolt on the bottom of the cover that is the drain. After that, you can pop the clutch cover off easily. Once you get it off, the clutch is very accessible. You should be able to see if the basket is notched by just looking at it. If it is, remove the clutch springs, then the pressure plate (what the springs go in), then the plates just slide out. The clutch nut is in the center of the basket, and has a steel retaining plate under it. One side of that plate is folded up against a side of the nut to keep it from backing off. Flatten that side, brace the basket so it won't turn, and remove the nut. WARNING: I'm not sure if the threads are right or left-handed, so call a shop and ask before you wail on it. Once the nut is off, the basket comes off the tranny input shaft. Re-assembly is as easy as doing everything backwards. If you re-use the steel retaining plate, don't bend the same side up because it may crack and fail down the road, causing major damage to the clutch. If money is a factor, Moose makes a billet basket, too, and it's just as good as the Hinson, just a little cheaper. As a matter of fact, there's one on that auction site right now for $170-180 (item #120045572416).

 

that is great! Your the best...I just looked into the Moose Racing basket you mentioned about..that just may be the one I order, about $20 cheaper. I do have a Clymer repair book for the 250r so I will follow that to in regards to reversed threads on the clutch. Do you have the billet basket in your atc also? you seem to know what your talking about so following that can you come over sometime and lend a hand? LOL!!! Getting knowledgeable advise is always a plus in my book[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-cool.gif[/img]

 

I don't actually have a 250R at the moment, but I've owned about ten of them (3 and 4 wheels), and I've worked on what seems like hundreds. If you want, click here for a PDF version of the official Honda service manual for the 85-86 ATC250R (courtesy of Dammit! from 3WW). It takes a while to load, but all 244 pages have been scanned, so save it to your comp and you'll never be without excellent technical info. The Clymer manuals are alright, but nothing beats Geniune Honda. I would also suggest heading over to the 3WW forums, too, because the site is three wheeler specific. Good luck with your project, and have fun!

 

Nice 3 wheeler forum packed with lots of good info at 3WW forums. I downloaded the service manual and that really blows away the clymer manual..Gheezz. Thank you for the link and the forum recomend.
After looking at the service manual under Clutch..it gives some Troubleshooting under that. Page 94 says 'Vehicle creeps with clutch disengaged' (my problem) says 2 things, which I believe is the 2nd one possibly.
1. Too much free play
2. Plates warped

Plates warped? is this what you told me about checking? are they talking about the actual clutch plates here?
If my stock basket has the scratches or gouges what I might do is go ahead and replace the basket like you said along with new clutch plates, would you agree?

thanks again for your help...appreciated!

 

I knew you'd get a kick out of the manual. The trouble with some of their tips is that they were written long before basket notching ever became an issue. True, the plates can warp and cause your symptoms, but that's somewhat unlikely, especially if the plates have been replaced. Today's plates are much better than the factory stockers, and they don't warp that often, unless you can ride like Marty Hart. I would say there is a 95% chance that your basket is notched. I have seen it a thousand times before. Just make sure you actually take a look inside before you spend your of money. If you are careful, you can re-use the clutch cover gasket when you put it back together. It's also good idea to drain the tranny before you unbolt the clutch cover. I forgot to mention that. If you want to replace your plates when you put a new basket in, that's great. Just make sure that you DON'T use Kevlar friction plates. Use cork-based plates because the debris from the Kevlar plates will damage the anodizing on the basket, which will make it soft, leading to notches. All clutch plates make debris when used, no matter how good you set-up your clutch. It's just that the Kevlar debris is very hard on the anodizing. And don't worry about the few ounces of weight you'll save by using aluminum drive plates. Stick with steel drive plates because they will last forever if you take care of them.