Hi I have a trv 500 2008 I don't have a manuel at this point, but i have replace half axles on a friend car once. anyways, does anyone know what size sockets I will need to do the job. also, do I have to buy the tool for the axle boot clap or there another way to clap it without the tool. If I have to buy the tool, will a regular car tool work if so where is a good place to get that tool. I know im asking a lot of ?? but, I dont want to start the job and not have tools needed. ive never replace a boot just the whole have axle. I ripped the boot yesturday it didnt get dirt in there and the joints are not clicking so i just need to replace the boot thx robert

 

I dont know what I was looking at yesturday, but I saw a tool for 100$. Now, I see some boot band plyers for like 25$. so, maybe ill just buy them. Not sure what type I would need though. Hopefully I can buy them from a auto part store.

 

ive been looking on line to see what size sockets i will need and i cant find out anything. i thought about calling the repair shop but think that is rude lol

 

To get the crown nut off the end of the axle you will need either a 30mm socket. Or a cresent wrench and a chunk of pipe. (use to do it that way intil I got a socket to fit my impact wrench)

I purchased my boot clamp tool from Car Quest. I also purchased extra clamps from them just in case. The clamps were about $5 (for 4 two of each size) and the tool was like $30. They had a couple of styles but I purchased the one that works with their clamps. SOme are available on line. But, from my experience it is not possible to get the boot clamp tight enough without the tool.

My clamp tool which looks like a pair of channel locks with a 1/4 inch ratchet on one side. You can replace the boot with out removing the rear axle from the rear diff but I just get tired of reaching into the cramped space. So I drain the rear diff and remove the hole axle. All that is neede is once you have the tire, hub assembley, a-arms and shocks and brakes out of the way (if brakes are present) is to push the axle in towards the rear diff and give it a good hard pull. Might have to do it once or twice but it shuld pop right out. Reinstall by pushing it in.

After having done about 8-9 boot replacements on my machines alone and a few others on friends machines I would say, remove the axle from the machine and get it out where you can work on it easily. I use a bench top vise to hold it and I find my chair more comfy than sitting on the floor stooped over under the fender well trying to keep the dirt out of the grease when installing the boot.

SJ

 

thx sj that is what i was going to do is pull the whole thing out. ill get the 30 mill and the plyers. i read where you guys were talking about the cvman site for the boots. im in communist cali, i called cvman and the boot is like 20 plus 11 for shipping. they said the boots were stronger then the stock ones. im thinking of looking around the boots like them, how can i tell which boots are best? im tring to save money if i can lol, taxes are really high here, but if i can get the same type of boot that cvman sells for about the same price without the 11 shipping great. but if not then i buy from him. now, artice cat sell them for like 45$ from the dealer but i dont know how the really compare to cvman?
also, i didnt see that you didnt take the snap ring off on the axle, does the cat have them? also, is it good to put extra grease in the boot? thx robert

 

thx for all the help, do you know if there is any odd size sockets for the a arms and shocks ect. i have the regular ones but not sure it there are sockets of the odd sizes thx. hey, you want to come over and help lol just kidding you wouldnt like my work hrs, i work nights it kind of hard to go buy things when no one is open on your days off when everyone is closed

 

Sure I would come do it, except I live in Alaska so it wouldn't be cheap.

It is a fairly simple process and it sounds like you have a good idea how to do it. The nuts and bolts on the a-arms and shocks are metric. Nothing wierd in size just metric. I think they are like 13, 15 or 17mm with 10mm one here and there. If you have a set of metric sockets and wrenches that go to 17mm you have it covered.

Yes, there is a cir-clip thing on the axle. One is on the end of the axle that pops out of the rear differential (fluid will come out oo if not drained). The other clip is next to the rear differential CV joint on the axle. You have to remove the boot clamps, pull the boot back and you will see it down in the grease. Once removed the CV comes off the axle and you can remove the boot. Be carefull with the CV joint as if it is bumped the little round bearings can pop out and that can casue youto chase them across the garage floor.

Mose CV boot kits come supplied with a packet of grease. It is plenty enough. Make sure Old grease is cleaned up and totally gone. The installation directions the CVman has are excellent. I wanted to see pictures myself but written instructions worked well.

On a side note I have been told that the CV boots off a geo metro or a Suzuki Swift (not sure of year) will fit most 400, 500 AC axles. I have not confirmed this rumor yet though. Last time I looked at the geo metro ones they were too long and still cost $25 plus extra for the grease and clamps. Also, I believe the CV grease is a mollybednium based grease and is not compatable with other grease types. So don't mix it with regular grease or it turns to mush.

SJ

 

Thanks SJ, Looks like all I need is the 30 mm socket and boot tool cool.

 

Okay, the shop said that it would cost me about 160$ to get the boot replaced, boot included.
Doing it on my own well not yet but ill try lol
boot kit from cvmam
50$
breaker bar
30$
30MM Socket
10$
banding tool
12$
extra bands all different
20$
Gear oil
6$
brake cleaner 2 cans just in case
8$
so im up to 136$ probably alittle more than that, but the work isn't even started yet. so, cost could go up when i finally take it to the shop to have it done lol just kiddin i hope

your probably asking why i didnt just use the bands from the kit from cv man. it looks kind of like it can come loose not much keeping it tight. not sure if anyone else has that same opinion but im am asking that ??

anyways thanks for all the advise swampy my wife is like oh well, when are u going to get it done lol

 

well, I'm done and it looks like it sealed okay. the hardest part in my opinion was the bands. I had a heck of a time tring to figure out how to do them and I messed up like four of them but its done thx robert