Pages: 1
Posted by: Sandgod
I have a Chines special called a Jiang Jong or something like that. Harbor Freight has the same one in a different name or the same, can't remember.. It is a 3500w and is just as quiet as ANY Honda.. They make a 6500 also and it's louder, but nowhere near as loud as the Colemans or anything you buy at Lowes or Home Depot.. I paid a whopping 300 for mine. If it breaks, so what, I'll go buy another one. Honda's, Yamaha's, Onans will drop 400 or more as soon as you walk otd w/ it.. Checker Auto carries a yellow one that looks just like mine only it has wheels and they are the same price.. Not sure how loud they are, but the muffler looked the same..
Posted by: TractorPacker
Quote
Originally posted by: Bing
oh, btw,,,the kipors are quiet as well
my unit
I can snap more photos if you wish and e-mail them.
He did his link wrong. When you click th elink it shows photo 3 from your photo page. If you want to see his genny, click his camara and then go to #3.
Posted by: Bing
Quote
Originally posted by: trailride
Thakns guys. I have searched a little and found a brand called Kipor. This brand seems to be a good alternative to the honda. Have any of you looked at this brand?
Brent
I have a KIPOR KGE3500TC. It is a converted generator and has trouble running AC only. (does fine with heaters and other appliances)
I would recommend the KGE3500TI which is the yellow inverted model,,,basicly the same thing as the Eu3000is from Honda except half the price.
I have had my unit for about 6 months and am very happy.
I paid $870 for my unit,,,,and i have heard of people paying less for the TI model which is usually $100 more than the TC.
I just fired the genny yesterday to be sure it was ready for hunt camp,,,,,fired on the 1st try.
If you plan to spend the big bucks,,,,get the Yamaha with the overload option. ($2200)
Posted by: Bing
oh, btw,,,the kipors are quiet as well
check my pic #3
I can snap more photos if you wish and e-mail them.
Posted by: Bing
Quote
Originally posted by: Dragginbutt
Lowes sells a 5500 watt unit for a little over $600, made by Troy-Built. Highly recommended. It has 4- 20 amp circuits, plus one 220. Should handle anything you throw at it in your trailer.
next time i hear a 102db generator with a guy welding next to it at a campground,,,i will think of you DB,,,,LOLOL!!!
Posted by: Dragginbutt
Lowes sells a 5500 watt unit for a little over $600, made by Troy-Built. Highly recommended. It has 4- 20 amp circuits, plus one 220. Should handle anything you throw at it in your trailer.
Posted by: Dragginbutt
Hey no problem... glad to help.... When I need a generator, I don't care how loud it is... just that is starts and keeps the lights on.
Posted by: Dragginbutt
I have to agree with the gentleman over Generac. In a past life, I used to work part time at the local Sears selling all sorts of items made by generac. Had nothing but troubles with them. Snow blowers, generators, pressure washers you name it. They were definately sub standard. Sears had to find another manufacturer.. that should say volumes...
I know the troy-bilt is loud... but I have not had any problems with it yet, and it is used daily in my business. It starts, runs, and gives me no worries... For the price, I can deal with the noise. Heck, I am deaf in my left ear, and my wife says I can't hear out of the Right. Selective hearing syndrome she calls it. It's my excuse and I am sticking to it.. Funny how it works like that.
Any way, I can live with the noise. Besides, in my businiess, I want to get people's attention anyway... it helps with the bottom line.
Every time I go to lay out the green stuff on a big purchase like the Hondas, I keep thinking I can buy 2 or 3 of the cheap models for the same price.. Maybe if the Troy-bilt dies I'll consider the Honda, but for now I am not complaining. Granted, I am not using it in a campground environment. Your needs are different than mine.
Posted by: Dragginbutt
Scooter, don't you know that smoking is hazardous to your health? Wink Wink... Nice Picture.... Just wondering what you expect to get for milage if you are towing a trailer? I get about the same pulling an enclosed trailer that weighs in at around 6000 loaded with a Dodge Ram 1500/Hemi. Next go round I am getting the Cummins for sure. believe it or not, the Hemi can't pull overdrive with it. It does fine with OD turned off. Darn thing can't seem to pass a gas station without stopping in to visit the pumps. You would think they were related or something.
Posted by: Dragginbutt
Well, be sure and compare the weight of the truck to the trailer loaded. And consider the amount of surface the trailer will be presenting. Contrary to what many may think about the V-nose trailers out there.. those that have towed both flat and V-nosed trailers will tell you that the V-nose can be a squirrelly deal under certain conditions due to the way the air flows around it. Especially when being passed on the highway by a big truck.
I am here to tell you my next trailer will be a flat nose. My New V-nose 24 ft total length is a witch to pull. But admittedly, it is taller than most trailers you see out there. (8ft tall inside, 11 ft total) See my profile page for pics. It really moves around and even though the Ram is 5500 pounds, it can be moved around by that trailer with no problems. I am adding Anti Sway this week.
The point is, you want the truck to be as heavy or slightly heavier than the trailer if possible.. otherwise the trailer will drive the truck, not the other way around.
If it were me and I was looking for a new truck, I'd be getting the cummins diesel, and going for at least a 3/4 ton.. and a 1 ton duelie if youcan afford one.
Posted by: Dragginbutt
Ah just take her down to the dealer and put her behind the wheel of a new Crew cab dualie... Once she gets that trucker feeling, and the king of the road attitude going... you are golden... Plus, it will have enough power to pull ANYTHING without breaking a sweat. You are not going to pull 10 MPG with any gas engine out there towing a trailer over 5000#.
I really like the toy haulers, but they are pricey, and not optimal in either category. I know others say they can put a bunch of machines in them, but I wonder... I for one really hate spending time and energy dragging them sideways inside the trailer. Too much work for these sorry old bones.
Am not comfortable with standing them up on end either. Some guys swear by the method... but again, too much work for me to get them up in the air. I have had to panic brake a tow rig before, and it was not pretty when I looked in the trailer. I can't imagine the damage that a 700 lb ATV can do on the inside of my trailer if it were to fall over from a panic stop. Not to mention the loss in resale value as a result.
When I go riding, I end up loading everything by myself. The 10 year old is good for chasing parts, drinks tools etc, but when it comes to lifting an ATV up and turning it sideways.. it is strictly a dad thing.
I have really re-thought my next trailer deal... I think I am going to go with an open trailer like a Triton that I can hang 5 or six off of it. Side load and drive off capability. That way, I don't have to bust a gut loading and unloading it. My enclosed trailer is used for my business, and is not ideal setup for hauling the quads. I also have an old All Aluminum snowmobile trailer that I can get 3 machines on... and it is in great shape... I guess that will have to do for a while until I can sneak that new Triton into the back yard without the Mrs noticing. With her new house in the works, I will have some leverage... until of course I show her the plans for the new shop out back...
Posted by: Dragginbutt
I hear ya... I bought a 3000 PSi Pressure washer, and they replaced the pump 4 times. the last time, they put a commercial unit from another mfg on it, and it has been good since. The fuel tank petcock still leaks down onto the air filter though. It runs and works fine now.. but it was a real fight every time I wanted to use it.
Not sure if the pumps were junk, or if water was freezing in the unit over the winter and caused it to crack, but you could bet it was not going to work when you needed it. Since they put the commercial pump unit on it, it has not given me any mroe problems. So it has to be the quality of the parts used.
Posted by: Dragginbutt
Well if you look at my profile, you will see my new trailer that I intend on using in my business, and occasional ATV trip... Weight is around 4500. It is extra tall, so that accounts for some of the issues, but it was a bear to tow. I thought the Hemi was pretty stout, but the trailer brought it to it's knees. I absolutely could not pull overdrive with it. The gearing is such that with OD on, I am turning just under 2000 RPM. WIth it off, Just under 2300 RPM. It makes a huge difference in gas milage. I was getting roughly 200 miles a tank full. At $65 a throw, it is a tough pill to swallow.
As for Motor home pulling a trailer Vs a toyhauler trailer/tow truck... it is a toss up. Personally, I like comfort.. and the motor home gives me that. I can't see me running into town for an evening's entertainment. I do that at home. When I travel to the great outdoors, I want to leave all that crap behind. I do recognise though, that my wife is on holiday too, and we do not expect gourmet meals. I do much of the cooking any way, as it tastes a whole lot better on the grill, and that is my department my wife always tells me. ( I think she is slacking, but I must admit I like grilling out)
Point is, we share the duties, and have the luxuries of our home with us. As for neighbors coming over.. and mooching... Well, I set up a awning with a screen room. They are welcome to throw a bedroll in there, but as for the motor coach, that is strictly our home away from home. We do invite family on our trips, but there are limits to our hospitality.
Posted by: Dragginbutt
You may be right. The problem that really vexes me is as the truck is passing, and before they get even with me, the truck creates such a low pressure area that it actually wants to suck you into them. It can move my trailer 3 ft or more until they get even with me and the sucking stops with a pronounced release. Since at that point, I am steering away from them to attempt to not make contact, I then find myself shooting the other way away from them. 3 ft of sucking movement makes one heck of a wobble at speed.. which then translates to the truck's back end. In 12 hours, I only had to hit the trailer brakes slightly one time, but it was a sickening feeling.
I was fighting a head wind most of the day. In the evening, I was able to pull OD on flats, and maintain 65 MPH. Up until then, though, it was doing OK with the OD off. I picked up 2 MPG to over 9.. but it still is a long way from the 19-22 I was getting without the trailer. I think I have a 326 gear... I know it is not the towing gear... The owner's manual says just to take it out of OD, and it seems to work just fine, have plenty of power etc.
I am looking at getting a tall wedge topper for the truck now, so it will not present such a large frontal area. I am also getting my load equalizer hooked up as well, and that should help. Also, the MFG's yard delivery person didn't know what the tire pressure was supposed to be. I found out much later that the tires only had 35 lbs in them, and should have been around 50. That would add drag as well, and could have added to the sway motion. I was a little PO'd over that, but I guess it is just one more f-up the factory made in this whole custom trailer process.
I tell you, I cannot in good conscience recommend PACE American to anyone looking for a custom job. They just do not have the brain matter to pull it off. At least that is my experience with the GA plant. I am greatly displeased with the customer service and the washing of their hands when they make a mistake. They were 4 months late in production, made several major errors on the trailer, played dumb country boy when they the mistake was pointed out to them, and refused to fix it. So much for customer care I guess. Thankfully, the dealer I purchased it through took it upon himself to make things right... Plus, they charged me $200 for teh priviledge of coming 800 miles to their plant and taking delivery there versus them delivering it to my dealer. What a crock.
Any way, I intend to get a crew cab dualie just as soon as everything settles down after the move to GA. Really looking forward to getting away from this madness in the nation's capital.
Posted by: Dragginbutt
soooo, what you are saying is that if I have to use my generator every day for hours at a time... I should be looking at a Honda. Probably a commercial model?
Posted by: Dragginbutt
I was talking to some guys in Home depot the other day and they indicated you can use a manual switch placed between two panels. The circuits you want to run on Generator are moved to a seperate panel. The switch is a 3 pole which you can either runn everything off of city power, or switch to teh generator side and run the backup circuits. This way the rest of the house is still on the primary power, but physically isolated from the backup circuits... Does that make sense? The middle man 3 pole switch is a lot cheaper than a automatic one...
I hear you on the mega switch you had and people not wanting to manually touch it. I had a computer center with backup Generators that we had to test once a month when in the military, and when that baby switched over, you would swear someone hit the box with a sledge hammer. I am scared to death of that kind of power. I've seen what it can do.
I escorted some electritians putting in a new buss bar one time, They had to disconnect the 3 phase coming in to the building, and each time they pulled the connectors, a 6 foot lightning bolt would jump out and make your hair stand on end... and I was standing 30 ft away. The stuff looked GREEN and made a powerfull crack noise....
Posted by: UBETRUN
Tripping the main house breaker disconnects you from the feed, what's the problem with that method?
Posted by: UBETRUN
I agree that it is possible to feed electricity back into the lines if someone closes the main house breaker but that's a different subject. I also understand the code regarding a transfer switch, it's there to protect power line workers.
If you open the main breaker to your house (and keep it open as long as the generator is running), you can plug your generator right into your house wiring with a dual male cable. Open the breakers to the things that the generator won't run (heat/ac/oven/dryer) and let the generator power your lights and fridge. Personally, I think it's safer than running a bunch of extension cords.
Posted by: BlackandRedWarrior
1) Quiet
2) Lots of Power (wattage)
3) Cheap
Choose any two. BR>
You're going to probably want something in the 4000 watt range because of the A/C. Maybe a 3000, might cut it. Hard to say without seeing the A/C's load. It should be in the owners manual (and the unit).
The inverter models (1000i, 2000i, 3000i from Honda (I think those are the models) as well as Yamaha and other companies) are going to set you back some money, but they are tops on the quiet list and easy on the gas tank. They only turn fast enough to produce the wattage needed. They are expensive because they convert the AC produced by the generator to DC and then back to AC. Allows them to accurately produce 60Hz @ 120V power without changing without it spiking and sagging. Good units for anything with electronics.
Posted by: BlackandRedWarrior
Quote
Originally posted by: trailride
Thakns guys. I have searched a little and found a brand called Kipor. This brand seems to be a good alternative to the honda. Have any of you looked at this brand?
Brent
I think I've heard of that brand. I believe they make an inverter model that's supposed to be a good alternative to the Honda$.
Posted by: BlackandRedWarrior
Many of my riding buddies have toy haulers and nobody complains about fuel smell. Just make sure you turn off your fuel petcocks and/or drain your tanks if you (or the Mrs.) are really worried about it. And everyone tows with the quads 4 down. I'm with draggin, I wouldn't want to panic stop and have a strap snap and drop the weight of a quad on the plywood floor of a TH.
I'd definately try to talk the wife into going for the diesel. Have her test drive the new ones. Big power and low noise. It's amazing how quiet they are. They aren't your Daddy's diesel anymore. (A little play on the old Old's tagline). You get better fuel mileage, whether towing or not. My friend can get better mileage than me (if you can keep your foot out of it) with an '02 7.3L PSD and I'm running a 4.6L V8 gasser. Note: they do have a bed cover, so they gain a little there. But still, look at the stats! Much more capacble truck. Diesel is running more than gas now, but it's still cheaper after mileage is taken into account.
Not to start a weight fight, but there are only a very few TH's that a 1/2-ton can actually pull. Most people don't buy the Titan (or F-150) as speced that can tow what the manuf. claim. Just in case she needs a little persuasion to go big on the truck. You don't want to get in a situation where you're upgrading truck and trailer because you're not happy with either. I know a family that just bought trailer #3 and TV #2. And they are on Year #3.
Posted by: BlackandRedWarrior
Nice "toy" DB. I can see why you have issue w/ OD. That's a LOT of frontal area, even if it's a v-nose. I'm just pulling a wild haired guess out of my behind, but I think the problem with trucks passing is this:
The large trucks create a large bow wave of air in casting off the side. That wave of air probably is close to the same angle as the V-nose. With a flat front, the wave it's the corner of the trailer and goes across the front of the trailer and the rest goes down the side. With the v-nose, the wake actually hits the nose side (for lack of a better term) with a blunt hit. It's not split by the corned. Bascially like running into a wall head on, rather than at a 45d angle.
I know that Ford, and I assume other manuf. calculate the towing load with an eye at the frontal area of the trailer. If you go past that point, you have to decrease the weight. Air restantance, drag, is the biggest consumer of energy over 40-60MPH.
What gears are you running? Sounds like a mid 3 gear, like a 3.55 (Ford's "mileage" gearset.) The OD bogs down the motor too much with all the drag from the trailer. Let the motor spin faster, puts out more power, but is using less fuel. It's funny how that works. And todays gas motors (hell, even the diesels) seem to work better (develope more power, more efficiently) when they are spinning faster.
Posted by: BlackandRedWarrior
It's amazing what air on the road will do. Big high profile vehicles have it the worse. And some of the big rigs out there create some vicious air movement.
3.26...dang. That's what the Sonoma I used to drive had...and it had dinky little tires (15" rim, like a 225/65/R15, IIRC). Truck did pretty decent, but it was running the 4.3L V6 (TBI, not the Vortec, it was a'91). No wonder you were getting good unloaded mileage. And I thought 3.55 was bad.
That shell should help out a lot. You aren't having to move air twice (over the cab, then from the bed height to the top of the trailer).
Tire pressure is a HUGE eater of mileage and performance. I could tell on my old car ('01 Daewoo Nubira) when it was time to check the tires. It would get really sluggish.
I've never had to deal with a big trailer company. We had a custom hydraulic made at a local company. They've provided good service, but that's only been to replace a hydraulic pump, but we can't seem to keep seals in the rams, but then again, dropping the dang thing at 60MPH on the highway and having it nearly flip *MIGHT* have something to do with that. It tows funky empty (need a good 5degree tongue height). So we go through 2 rear in the time we go through 1 front tire.
Looks like a nice home you're building. I knew a couple people who lived in and around DC. One didn't talk much about it (he was an instructor, and an XO at the local Marine base) but used to give the other lady (one of the students) a bad time. She had a pretty good accent. She was GLAD to be gone from DC. Hated the traffic. I think they lived in northern VA. I'd like to go back to VISIT. I can't stand big cities to live. I enjoy driving, but don't want to spend my life on a 4-lane parking lot.
Posted by: BlackandRedWarrior
Quote
Originally posted by: twentycharacters
the neighbors had a coleman with a subaru engine and it did pretty good too. the other neighbor had a troy built (i think) i heard that thing race up and down all night... i have no idea what he was running on it to make it do that. the guy is an electrician and had it wired into his breaker box so he had his whole house on it.
If you hook up a generator to your house make sure that it's done correctly with a transfer switch. Either with a manual or automatic trasnfer switch.
Posted by: BlackandRedWarrior
Flipping the main is not enough. You need the transfer switch to completely isolate the system. Flipping the main isn't enough. The closest thing to that is using a Kirk Key lockout system. Bascially it's a switch system that has 2 keyholes. And only ONE key for those tumblers exists. No spares. In a switch over you go up to the primary switch, turn it off, disengaging the system from the utility. This allows you to remove the key. The switch retains the key in the ON positiong. You then take the key and put it into the backup supply switch, turn it, then turn the switch ON to the backup supply, which will retain the key. These systems are rare, and actually had to give the City of Fresno docuemnts to prove the system completely isoltates.
Electricity doesn't care which way it flows, through a transformer or not. Your generator pushing out 240V single phase will go through the service transformer and put power on 2 legs of the 12,000 volt line.
If you need to temp run things from a generator, run extension cords directly to the devices needing power.
Posted by: BlackandRedWarrior
Because it is not an approved method.
You're technically turning off the breaker. Tripping the breaker is caused by putting too much current through the breaker. Plus I don't believe that a breaker is a disconnecting means.
That whole pesky National Electric Code and power companies. The transfer switch, when properly installed, makes it impossible to screw things up. There's nothing to prevent some numb nut moron from flipping the main back on. Transfer switches are an either/or thing. No possible way to backfeed the power grid. Backfeeding is putting power through in the opposite way. This will also cause you electric meter to spin in reverse, and REALLY tweak the utility.
If a genset is not properly installed, I *think* a power company can disconnect you until it's been removed or properly installed.
Generally, but not always, when the transfer switch is installed, they'll install a seperate panel for the back-up loads. (Be careful in calling it an "emergency" generator. It's a "back-up generator." Emergency generators are specified in Article 700 of the NEC. There are particular requirements that must be intalled. Remote annunciator panels (low oil, high temp, battery charger, etc.) If you don't seperate off those loads, it's possible to pull too much power off the generator causing the generator MCB to trip. Circuit breakers and fuses, "overcurrent protection devices" are actually there to protect the wire, and the wire only.
Glad to see it's now been installed correctly. Transfer switches really aren't that expensive for something for a house. We just finished a job that had like a 2000amp 3-phase transfer switch. The generator (whever they install it) will be about 20' long, fully enclosed sitting on top of a fuel tank that's the same footprint and about 6' high.
Posted by: BlackandRedWarrior
draggin, thiat's referred to as a manual transfer switch and is perfectly fine. The automatic switches just do things automagically for you. They sense that loss of voltage and kick the switch over to the stand-by, then send the start and run signals to the generator. With a manual you do all that yourself. Open the switch, start the genny, kick the switch to the back-up source.
The reason those big switches are so loud is because they are usually operated by very strong springs. Even a really strong man isn't strong enough to switch the switches. There are a lot of main switches in the 2000+ amp range that are that way. You pump a handle that primes the switch and push a button and the switch goes. At those amperages you need the switch to move fast to reduce the arc. The arcing will burn up the switch contacts in no time.
Arcing can also cause bad things. Anyone ever see what happens when bus bars ionize? OUCH. The voltage will acting go across dust and what not in the air and jump from bar to bar. We had a customer at a packing house pop their main 2000 (or 3000) amp breaker. Without checking what went wrong the maintenance super and someone else went to the switchgear and reset the breaker. Luckily they were bent over (the breaker was low) and the top of the switch gear bus bars ionized and blew out the top of the switchgear. If they had been standing up they probably would have been killed. (Talk about customer service: GE actually airfreighted overnight the parts from Seattle to Fresno.)
There's a local Catholic hospital here in Fresno that runs full-time on turbine natural gas generators. They run on 2 in parrallel and rotate the 3rd one in. The get gas from PG&E via a 36" main and still pay like $25K a month for back-up grid power.
Posted by: Scootergptx
I'm getting rid of the motorhome (7mpg) and getting a toy hauler. Had one picked out, and was generator prepped. Asked about a Onan 4k and they wanted to install a smaller one for 2500 plus labor to install. Shoot, I think I'll just take the 6.5 Onan out of the RV. Could run two to three trailers with it.
If you know the amperage of what your using, and the voltage (most likely 120) you can figure how many watts you'll need.
Amperage X Voltage = Watts
Example, 15 amp A/C @ 120 volts = 1800 watts
Keep in mind if you're going to be using a microwave, hair dryer (for the women) and other stuff that is high wattage.
Posted by: Scootergptx
I'd hope to get about 10mpg. The trailers I'm looking at aren't going to be any bigger than 28 feet. Plus, if I want to leave the campground, I won't have to bring a second vehicle (even more gas). Looked at the 1500, but leaning more towards a Titan. The wife has had two Dakotas, both with problems in the front suspension. I'm sure the 1500 has a better record, but the service dept I've been to just had the attitude that it's not a problem (for them anyway), so I started looking at other makes.
The most fun is when I start the RV. Then I can take bets which will happen first. Will the temp gauge reach normal operating range before the gas gauge goes down by 1/4 tank. Just to fill the RV, quads and gas cans is only 100 gallons.
Posted by: Scootergptx
Unfortunately, for me to get the trailer, the wife has to get the truck. Cummins would be my first choice, but she doesn't like diesel (whiner). It's definitely going to be flat-nose, and I learned from all the years my Dad towed trailers to get anti-sway. The problem with having a 34 foot RV, is everbody looks to you for a place to stay if the weather is bad. This time the wife said get something big enough for us, everyone else can just get wet and cold. At one point had considered loading the atvs sideways on the truck bed and getting a hard side pop-up. Those things weigh about 2300-2800 pounds. Light weight and low profile, but if the truck bed is full, you're really limited on storage space int the pop up.
Curious if anyone with a toy hauler has any odor problems from the atvs or bikes riding in the trailer.
Posted by: trailride
I have just purchased an enclosed trailer with an a/c unit on the roof. I do not know exactely what size the ac unit is, but i would like to buy a generator big enough to run the ac, tv/dvd, and lights inside. These 3 would be the only 3 on at the same time. I dont know much at all about the generators , but i would like a quit one and what size do i need? I looked at the honda 2000 and 3000, but really dont want to spend 1800 $.
Thanks for any input
Posted by: trailride
Thakns guys. I have searched a little and found a brand called Kipor. This brand seems to be a good alternative to the honda. Have any of you looked at this brand?
Brent
Posted by: trailride
Quote
Originally posted by: Sandgod
I have a Chines special called a Jiang Jong or something like that. Harbor Freight has the same one in a different name or the same, can't remember.. It is a 3500w and is just as quiet as ANY Honda.. They make a 6500 also and it's louder, but nowhere near as loud as the Colemans or anything you buy at Lowes or Home Depot.. I paid a whopping 300 for mine. If it breaks, so what, I'll go buy another one. Honda's, Yamaha's, Onans will drop 400 or more as soon as you walk otd w/ it.. Checker Auto carries a yellow one that looks just like mine only it has wheels and they are the same price.. Not sure how loud they are, but the muffler looked the same..
I think i have found your Chinese Generator. And from all the searching i think i will go with this model. Most of my search led me to www.rv.net and in thier forum , spoke very highly of this generator. Its quiet and is 3500watts qnt. The model is Champion C46535 sold at checker auto and parts america for 299$ plus 61 $ shipped. That sure is alot better than 1000$ or even 1800$
Posted by: twentycharacters
what do you all think about the mitsubishi generators?
i used one (a 4000) during our extended power outage after hurricane katrina and that thing did quite well. it ran about 10hrs on 5gallons. i have pretty sensitive hearing and never heard it cut out, make weird noise or change tone (like some race up and down). plus the thing was built like a tank, and was pretty heavy. started effortlessly on first pull. i liked it so much im thinking about getting one - but i want one bigger than a 4000. they are expensive, not quite up there with honda but in the territiory. just wondering if you had any experience with these? what about the dewalts with the honda engines? they seem like a good value and are cheaper than the hondas.
the neighbors had a coleman with a subaru engine and it did pretty good too. the other neighbor had a troy built (i think) i heard that thing race up and down all night... i have no idea what he was running on it to make it do that. the guy is an electrician and had it wired into his breaker box so he had his whole house on it.
Posted by: Hondanutcase
I agree with B&R warrior. To run A/C I would get one that could handle the load. You are gonna have to spend money to get a good generator they dont come cheap.
Posted by: Quad4Fun
The Honda 3000 will work for you just fine img src="i/expressions/face-icon-small-happy.gif" border="0">BR>
Just remember, when getting one that big, most of them are pretty noisy....
That's the big advantage HONDA has, they are quiet and you can have them running close to you and it's no problem.........
The money you will spend will be well worth it, really............
If you go cheap, you will get loud..........
Good Luck
Honda
Posted by: 212RACING
any updates on the champion c46535 generator
happy with it? is it quiet,smooth, any problems pulling a load from camper.
is this an inverted gen. set?
Posted by: LittleBill
i was going to tell you too look there, i have one of the original elim3000's works amazingly and is impressively quiet, good luck reading, its a 60 page post
Posted by: magna29
Quote
For what you are doing, go for a Generac 4000XL
I will throw my 2 cents in. I just retired from a shop that does warranty work for most of the Generators out their. I will NOT recomend a generac. I cant say it any more clear than that. I am sure their will be some chime in that have had great success with them. I say good for you, you are very lucky! Generac generators kept my old boss in bussiness. Colemans are so so, if used occasionally they will last. but are noisy.
If you want a generator thats going to last, you need to get a Honda. Their is a reason they charge so much for their units. They are built very well. You would be amazed at the shortcuts some companies are making with equipment that Honda doesnt.
Onan is another brand that is made very well but again you are going to pay for it.
And you need to find out the load of the a/c before determing the size of the generator.
Posted by: magna29
Quote
Had nothing but troubles with them. Snow blowers, generators, pressure washers you name it
Dont even get me started on their pressure washers. We averaged between 35-40 of these genajunk washers a week for warranty in the summer. They would have a very well known problem (by the company) the parts were on back order for 3 months and they wouldnt pull the remaining units of the sales floors. And it wasnt like it could happen, part of the pump broke off first or second use of every one sold. We had over 200 of these damn things piled up every where waiting for parts.
It was a great learning experience working their, we did warranty for 2 dozen companies from power tools, air compressors, generators, power washers, hydraulics, pnuematics tools, and repaired just about everything. I am lucky now I know what to buy and what not to!!!
Posted by: magna29
Quote
Originally posted by: twentycharacters
what do you all think about the mitsubishi generators?
i used one (a 4000) during our extended power outage after hurricane katrina and that thing did quite well. it ran about 10hrs on 5gallons. i have pretty sensitive hearing and never heard it cut out, make weird noise or change tone (like some race up and down). plus the thing was built like a tank, and was pretty heavy. started effortlessly on first pull. i liked it so much im thinking about getting one - but i want one bigger than a 4000. they are expensive, not quite up there with honda but in the territiory. just wondering if you had any experience with these? what about the dewalts with the honda engines? they seem like a good value and are cheaper than the hondas.
the neighbors had a coleman with a subaru engine and it did pretty good too. the other neighbor had a troy built (i think) i heard that thing race up and down all night... i have no idea what he was running on it to make it do that. the guy is an electrician and had it wired into his breaker box so he had his whole house on it.
I have not had much experience with the Mitsubishi's what i have seen they seemed pretty good.
Your in luck with Dewalt, we were authorized Dewalt Service Center. The Dewalt's are a decent unit although with extended use from contracters the generator portion of the unit is the week spot. If you wanted it around the house for use when needed it would probably last you a very long time. For daily use its not going to hold up for long.
Troy built anything now days is hit and miss. They are owned and built by MTD, So you get what you pay for. Thats why you see Home Depot's and some other box stores selling stuff like Cub Cadet, Troy Built, White Outdoors, and so on at such low prices compared to what they use to be. They are made alot cheaper
Its kinda like Craftsman power tools and lawn equipment, Craftsman doesnt make anything its farmed out to the lowest bidder.
Posted by: downeaster
Well I guess I will add my two cents. You will need a generator around 4000 watts. Any
smaller and you stand the chance of running y0ur generator at to high a level. What I mean
is the peak of the generators capability. For instance. The generator has is rated for 4000
watts, with a peak of 4500w. The generator will give 4000w and below fine, but when you
are using 4300w, the generator has not reached peak, but will run very hot, and not trip
the built in circuit breaker set at 4500. After a run time as little as 30 minutes the stator
can burn up. This means one junk generator, and go buy another. Now my suggestions.
For what you are doing, go for a Generac 4000XL, that you can find in any Home depot, or
other stores. This is a nice generator, and runs quieter than alot of others. Also, it runs
for about 13 hours on 4 gallons of gas. The cheaper generators get you by using 1 gallon
for 1 hour of running. Make sure you purchase the XL model as the others are not as
quiet or stingy using gas. A bigger model say a 5500 will normally be much heaver, and
use hold 5 gallons of gas and run for 7 hours. This a disadvantage to you for many reasons,
1. much heaver
2. Less run time per gal of gas.
3. a louder engine.
Get a 75 extention cord, and run the engine away from you campsite, and it will cut down
on noise, and gasoline smoke.
Heres a tip. If the generator is to be used alot, a 7 or 8 hundred dollar generator will
save you alot of the 500 dollar bargain. The very expensive Honda generators are
undoubtably the best in all, but command a price twice to three times as much as I have
described.
Your choice, hope this helps, I been through it all..
Posted by: BlackKawi400
YEAH I LEARNED THAT THE HARD WAY!! My parents bought a 10K in a government auction and it sat around until one winter there was an ice storm and people were without electricity for 2 weeks. My parents as soon as the power went out, asked me to hook it up. Well I know a LITTLE about electricity so I hooked it up through a home-ade double male heavy duty extension cord until we could get a permanent setup. I started it up and the damn thing was bogging down like hell and I just happened to notice all the neighbors lights coming on!!! You should really kill the main breaker if you do it that way. Either way, as soon as I saw that I tripped the main and all was well.
Posted by: BlackKawi400
It was a temporary fix for the moment. The generator is permanently mounted on a slab in its own little shed now and they have a 100amp automatic transfer switch with a time delay now.
(my parents arent the brightest, so all they have to do is start it up and it takes over)
Posted by: BlackKawi400
Yeah it works well and is simple to boot. When I was stationed in korea we had a pair of 1.2MW?? Turbine powerhouses that could power our entire command center (5 buildings + misc structures) I watched the koreans wire in that massive 3phase manual switch. It was enclosed in a massive switchbox with a huge freakin lever! People were afraid to switch that baby!!
